• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Removing shifter to install back-up light switch

formula223

New member
26
1
0
Location
Ormond Beach, FL
I'm having a heck of a time finding information concerning the removal of the shift mech from my 93 M998. I'm wanting to install a reverse lamp switch but want to read the procedure before starting.

I've searched the TM's and the net and all I can find is installation of the switch but no info on removal and installation of the shifter.
 

orgnal

Member
285
4
18
Location
Denver, CO
I'm having a heck of a time finding information concerning the removal of the shift mech from my 93 M998. I'm wanting to install a reverse lamp switch but want to read the procedure before starting.

I've searched the TM's and the net and all I can find is installation of the switch but no info on removal and installation of the shifter.
You don't have to remove the shift mechanism to install the reverse lamp switch. You can do it from underneath. There is a little bump in the rubber boot similar to the one for neutral safety switch. You need to make ahole at the bump to get the reverse lamp switch in and thread it in. Have patience and use eye glasses to stop dirt getting into your eyes.

McReddy
 

DatGuyC

Member
537
22
18
Location
Essex, Maryland
While you dont have to remove it, I would because it gives you a chance to lube up the shifter. Its just 4 bolts holding it to the body, the 2 arms for the trans/transfercase, and the wiring for the gear illumination and safety switch. Be gentle with it and try not to rip the rubber boot and it should come out fine. The rubber boot on mine was filled with sand and rocks even though the shifter felt fine.
 

DatGuyC

Member
537
22
18
Location
Essex, Maryland
Some of the bolts are in a hard to reach space, I think its the drivers side ones. Works better if you have someone in the cab to hold the bolt still while you remove the nut from underneath. I removed the engine cover and could get at the front ones that way also.
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,220
72
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
Some of the bolts are in a hard to reach space, I think its the drivers side ones. Works better if you have someone in the cab to hold the bolt still while you remove the nut from underneath. I removed the engine cover and could get at the front ones that way also.
That's why vise grips were invented.

I replaced the steering wheel boot on the firewall and my kids weren't around to help out. A strategically placed vise grip works like a third hand. Just have to do the 3-D placement in your head to figure out what abuts what and it's a breeze. Put a blanket underneath (I use a large padded shipping blanket) so's all the little spring/star lock washers and nuts don't roll off down the driveway somewhere.
 

Stonewall

Member
191
2
18
Location
Peoria, IL
Removing the assembly is not difficult. It is just the 4 bolts, a couple pins, and the 3 wires to disconnect. Plus it is much, much easier to install the switch and inspect everything when it is out.
 

ryanruck

Active member
427
46
28
Location
Cincinnati, OH
Most everyone covered the basics with disconnecting the linkage and the bolts.

I didn't have a second person handy and was able to get to all of my bolts through the doghouse opening but it was tedious.

I would strongly recommend getting a new boot in preparation for when you get it out. Mine was okay until I started taking the shifter assembly out and then it started coming apart due to age. New ones are only like $10 on eBay.

Also strongly recommend installing nutserts (aluminum preferably) once you get it out. That way, future removal is far easier!

IMG_1886.jpg
 

JAGWAH

New member
16
0
0
Location
San Diego, CA
Great idea. Regarding the rivnuts/nutserts:

1) Did you have to enlarge the holes? I understand the need to put the anti-slip notch in.

2) Does the rivnut create a small gap between the shifter and the floor and did you need to install some seal there?

3) Ryanruck: It looks like you needed to install new holes on the left side. Was there an issue with the original location? Did everything fit back together?
 

ryanruck

Active member
427
46
28
Location
Cincinnati, OH
Great idea. Regarding the rivnuts/nutserts:

1) Did you have to enlarge the holes? I understand the need to put the anti-slip notch in.

2) Does the rivnut create a small gap between the shifter and the floor and did you need to install some seal there?

3) Ryanruck: It looks like you needed to install new holes on the left side. Was there an issue with the original location? Did everything fit back together?
1) Yep, had to drill out the holes a little. 25/64 holes for the rivnuts I got. They're 1/4-20 rivnuts so they even worked with the factory bolts. They were from eBay seller aerohard. $15 shipped for 100.

2) No noticeable gap. The flange is pretty thin. The shifter boot should help seal everything up though since it gets sandwiched between the assembly and the deck.

3) No new holes. Those are just factory rosette welds for attaching the deck to the support you can see underneath.
 
Last edited:

formula223

New member
26
1
0
Location
Ormond Beach, FL
Got it all finished up last night. Had to remove it to size the bushing for the switch. I used a reverse light switch out of a late model Mustang. Perfect depth but the neck on the switch is smaller than the hole in the shifter. The boot was full of damp muck probably because dirt had plugged the drain holes.

Accessing the nuts through the engine cover really isn't too difficult if you must do it without help. Less than 3 hours start to finish including cleaning out the muck and painting the base.

From under truck;

1. Mark 3 wires if wire tags are unreadable.
2. Remove one cotter pin and washer from shift rod and same from range selector rod at bottom of shift levers.
3. Disengage rods from shift levers and note which rod goes to which lever.

From inside truck;

1. Remove engine cover.
2. Reach through engine access and locate four nuts attaching shift mechanism to floor. Hold nuts with 7/16" wrench. There is a flat washer above each nut that is easy to drop.
3. Use ratchet and 7/16" socket to remove four bolts attaching shift mechanism to floor.
4. Carefully pry between floor and shift mechanism to loosen shifter.
5. Once loose, tilt shifter toward passenger side and raise shifter from floor being careful to avoid scraping neutral safety switch wires and shifter boot.
6. Carefully slide boot from shifter. Boot is very easy to tear.

Clean and lightly lube moving parts inside shifter.
Unless using correct reverse lamp switch you will need a bushing. Available from some military parts suppliers. I made one buy drilling, tapping, and cutting a bolt to fit.
When reinstalling shifter, again be very careful sliding shifter through hole so as to not skin wires or tear boot.
 

Action

Well-known member
3,576
1,557
113
Location
East Tennessee
I disagree. I did not have to use a bushing with the reverse switch. You will need a bushing if you use the neutral safety switch for reverse switch.

McReddy
Oops, yeah, that is what i was thinking.

The parts manual looks like the switches fit into a squarish bracket that attaches inside the shifter housing. I thought my switch just screwed into the side of the shifter assembly...
 
Last edited:

JAGWAH

New member
16
0
0
Location
San Diego, CA
Thanks Formula223 for the write up. This is on my short list of to-do's.

Did you use a relay or just drive the light direct from where you tapped into power?
 

86humv

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,700
501
113
Location
Texas
Oops, yeah, that is what i was thinking.

The parts manual looks like the switches fit into a squarish bracket that attaches inside the shifter housing. I thought my switch just screwed into the side of the shifter assembly...
The 3L80 shifter....neutral switch hole needs no bushing.....the reverse switch does.
If you use a neutral switch as a reverse switch....still needs a bushing.
The 4L80e shifter uses an aluminum block to hold both switches.
 
Last edited:

formula223

New member
26
1
0
Location
Ormond Beach, FL
Thanks Formula223 for the write up. This is on my short list of to-do's.

Did you use a relay or just drive the light direct from where you tapped into power?


Didn't use a relay. Power comes from horn circuit so light is off with black-out lights on. Grounded lights at lamp mounting bolt and followed factory harness to shifter switch and then to power.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks