5T is HOME!!

[Glen1978]

Welp got her home today. 170 miles and went pretty much without a hitch. Couple things though.

1) Air brakes...... first time the air would go to 120 psi then as I used the brakes it wouldnt pressure back up. Pulled over and killed it while I listened for leaks. Cranked it back up and it built up. The next time I just pulled over and stopped and floored it and it built back up. Only happened twice.

2) oil pressure. Seems low to me. 30-35 goin down the highway. At idle not much over 0 looking the gauge. Motor runs GREAT. Truck drives GREAT. Everything seems to work. Has a little surface rust here and there and paint is pretty faded. Thinking about repainting it (spray bomb same color with same pattern) after wire wheeling some of the rust away. Fuel tank cap leaks a little. Pass headlight seems to have a short or something.....flickers sometimes. Its not the military Aurora Cord brand....aftermarket Wagner. Soft tops look brand new and still has troop seats. New spare in the rack and the guy I bought it from filled it with diesel before I got there. Anyways no leaks anywhere, looks freshly rebuilt. Im happy!! Plans are change the stock alternator and put spare on front. Paint wheels black and maybe redo camo on truck. Maybe take off bed cover and straight pipe it. Mess with inj pump a little and get a little more power. Anything else??

 

[Tracer]

Congrats, good looking truck. Get out the TMs and do a service on the truck. Do an oil change with new oil & fuel filters. Check your transmission fluid level and color, and check transfer case and axles, and then get out the lube gun. The TMs will show you the way. I'm sure other members can give you help with your brake air pressure issues. Now that your home, I wouldn't drive the truck until the brake problems are squared away.

 

[wreckerman893]

Air brakes...... first time the air would go to 120 psi then as I used the brakes it wouldnt pressure back up. Pulled over and killed it while I listened for leaks. Cranked it back up and it built up. The next time I just pulled over and stopped and floored it and it built back up. Only happened twice.

The air dryers are problematic on these trucks. That would be my first step. Several vendors on here stock replacements or rebuild kits.

 

[Glen1978]

Its got a fresh PM before I picked it up. Everything is greased as well, made sure all lights worked and systems functioned as they should. Water pump was leaking so he replaced that as well. Still gona check the axles, tcase and tranny oil pending weather tomorrow.

 

[71DeuceAK]

Congrats! Already saw on the M939 Facebook group you made it, glad to hear she's home!

 

[Glen1978]

Yup! Im off tomorrow so will dig into a few things and see what I can come up with.

 

[Nomadic]

Nice truck! I want one. How much did it set you back?

 

[Glen1978]

$6700. Thru in a fresh PM, changed the water pump, new spare tire and filled the tank with diesel. Helluva deal in my book.

 

[dmetalmiki]

$6700. Thru in a fresh PM, changed the water pump, new spare tire and filled the tank with diesel. Helluva deal in my book.

That was a great deal..congratulations, you have a suitably 'aggressive' looking truck right there.

 

[74M35A2]

You don't need to be in a hurry on the alternator as long as your electrical loads stay stock or near stock, your engine starts quick, your batteries are relatively fresh at 5 years old or newer, and you shut the engine off in the correct switch order (bottom one off/down first). Would not hurt to drop the belt, and make sure the alternator pulley is tight on the shaft, as this is one of several failure modes of the stock unit.

Your air governor or air dryer may have been stuck from non-usage. I'd keep an eye on it, and if OK, it should stay that way like it seems to now. At least change the air dryer elements.

Your oil pressure is fine. That is the characteristics of the electric gauge. Accuracy and resolution of it suck at best. I changed both my sender and gauge to no improvement, so then trashed both for a mechanical one, and it now reads as one would expect.

 

[Glen1978]

You don't need to be in a hurry on the alternator as long as your electrical loads stay stock or near stock, your engine starts quick, your batteries are relatively fresh at 5 years old or newer, and you shut the engine off in the correct switch order (bottom one off/down first). Would not hurt to drop the belt, and make sure the alternator pulley is tight on the shaft, as this is one of several failure modes of the stock unit.

Your air governor or air dryer may have been stuck from non-usage. I'd keep an eye on it, and if OK, it should stay that way like it seems to now. At least change the air dryer elements.

Your oil pressure is fine. That is the characteristics of the electric gauge. Accuracy and resolution of it suck at best. I changed both my sender and gauge to no improvement, so then trashed both for a mechanical one, and it now reads as one would expect.

Thanks. I ordered an air dryer from Suprman on here. Upgraded MRAP version as its cheaper to replace than rebuild from what I can see. Ill do the alternator sometime in the near future. Mods in the near future.....go over axles, tranny, and tcase and check fluids. Change out spare tire so the fronts match and move one front to pass side drive axle. Go over light switch and figure it out better. Then move to pump and turn it up just a little and gov springs a few clicks. Can anyone tell me what is a safe amount? Seems maybe 2 rounds on top of pump and then 3 clicks on gov springs. Adjust idle to match.

Also plan to straight pipe it, remove troop cover/bows, and do some airbox/intake mods to move more air.

 

[Glen1978]

You don't need to be in a hurry on the alternator as long as your electrical loads stay stock or near stock, your engine starts quick, your batteries are relatively fresh at 5 years old or newer, and you shut the engine off in the correct switch order (bottom one off/down first). Would not hurt to drop the belt, and make sure the alternator pulley is tight on the shaft, as this is one of several failure modes of the stock unit.

Your air governor or air dryer may have been stuck from non-usage. I'd keep an eye on it, and if OK, it should stay that way like it seems to now. At least change the air dryer elements.

Your oil pressure is fine. That is the characteristics of the electric gauge. Accuracy and resolution of it suck at best. I changed both my sender and gauge to no improvement, so then trashed both for a mechanical one, and it now reads as one would expect.

Thanks. I ordered an air dryer from Suprman on here. Upgraded MRAP version as its cheaper to replace than rebuild from what I can see. Ill do the alternator sometime in the near future. Mods in the near future.....go over axles, tranny, and tcase and check fluids. Change out spare tire so the fronts match and move one front to pass side drive axle. Go over light switch and figure it out better. Then move to pump and turn it up just a little and gov springs a few clicks. Can anyone tell me what is a safe amount? Seems maybe 2 rounds on top of pump and then 3 clicks on gov springs. Adjust idle to match.

Also plan to straight pipe it, remove troop cover/bows, and do some airbox/intake mods to move more air.

 

[74M35A2]

Spend a little more time researching, it seems you are in kind of a hurry to jump in quick and get what you want. All your answers are here, but if we have to keep explaining them to every new guy that walks in, then it is kind of pointless to try and create a library of knowledge.

Last give-away, from me anyway: 3 clicks causes instability (can't control idle, possible rpm runaway), 2 clicks is the more accepted largest amount. Screw on pump top only adjusts off-idle fueling before boost. Main fueling rack travel limit nuts are on back of pump under cover, EGT gauge strongly advised.

 

[Glen1978]

Spend a little more time researching, it seems you are in kind of a hurry to jump in quick and get what you want. All your answers are here, but if we have to keep explaining them to every new guy that walks in, then it is kind of pointless to try and create a library of knowledge.

Last give-away, from me anyway: 3 clicks causes instability (can't control idle, possible rpm runaway), 2 clicks is the more accepted largest amount. Screw on pump top only adjusts off-idle fueling before boost. Main fueling rack travel limit nuts are on back of pump under cover, EGT gauge strongly advised.

Yes on the EGT gauge. I think I got the pump setting mixed up while typing. 2 on the gov springs and 3 on the top screw. Ive seen people mention the rear adjustment but everything I have read on here and other places all seem to adjust top screw.

Not in a hurry just wanting to go over it and make sure things are right. I live at 8300' elevation and go to well over 10k quite often. A little more power would be welcome! Ive done nothing but research this thing for the last week.....thats how I found your alternator posts. Suprman for the airdryer posts and the pump mods are all over the place.

 

[Tinstar]

I waited too late for a new alternator because my trucks are stock and no extra electrical load.
They worked fine so why change it?!

Working great one day
Next day it literally fried and took several electrical components with it.
The smoke it produced was some of the most awful I've ever smelled.
Luckily I was at my ranch when it happened.
Blocking everything including driveway. Good place, horrible spot.


Cost a LOT more $$$ because I waited.

I will not make that mistake again.

 

[The HUlk]

I notice you mentioned having intermittent air building issues. Figured I'd pass along a link to a thread I started due to the same issue. I learned about the air system and some common problems...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/archive/index.php/t-141256.html

p.s. Welcome to the wonderful world of 5tons!

 

[Glen1978]

The alternator will be one of the sooner than later changes.

 

[Glen1978]

Thanks Hulk! Ive got the dryer on order. With the gov being as cheap as it is I should go ahead and replace it as you did. Then go thru all the same items as well and inspect/clean.

 

[The HUlk]

Thanks Hulk! Ive got the dryer on order. With the gov being as cheap as it is I should go ahead and replace it as you did. Then go thru all the same items as well and inspect/clean.

I have seen a few folks have the sticking unloader valve in the top of the compressor cause no air building. Same problem I had. Usually happens when warm, a sticky tar like substance that accumulates in there softens up and prevents the valve from being actuated by the spring inside.

 

[rockertype]

You'll get it all sorted out soon enough. Great deal you got on an awesome rig! Congrats!