M1010 Work Log

[joshuak]

Greetings folks, I'm starting this thread with the intent of sharing the work that I'm doing on my M1010.

The purpose of my sharing is for entertainment purposes only and should not be misconstrued with right way of doing things. I consider myself a newbie when it comes to automotive/metal work in general, as can be seen here in my first attempt a couple of years ago.

So after the disclaimer, here's the willing victim leaving here former home.



I let AAA do the recovery for me. Once off the roll off, I started it up and drove it around the house to the backyard for work to begin.

 

[joshuak]

Identification

In regards to its history, according to Bikeman in his 2016 VIN INFO thread the UIC for this truck no longer exists, therefore there is no record, the only information that was found was 0092, seen here. As far as I know, after military service it served in as a SWAT vehicle, it was then auctioned off and then bought by the person who sold it to me.

SWAT or PO? I'll never know.


The PO had "a hook up" with the Line X place in his area, so the front a large portion of the vehicle is Line X'ed. The hood, front fenders, roof and bottom of ambulance body, cab floor, doors, etc.



Another tag it had was a rust proofing tag by Zeibart. I'm certainly not a rust CSI, but I do credit this rust proofing to having kept rust away from common areas and I look forward to continuing that practice.



From what I can tell, their procedure is/was similar to that described in the Army's Technical Bulletin 43-0213, Corrosion Prevention and Control. It includes: drilling holes in strategic locations, washing, spraying rust inhibitor (fluid film, etc) and then plugging.

Screenshot of a page pertaining to CUCV's below.

 

[joshuak]

As others have done, I acquired this project when it became available for the price of what I've seen the axles sell for. The PO was ready to sell when his mechanic found "black stuff" in the IP after removing the cover and was told he would have to invest. To further prove the point the roll off driver mentioned that they had towed this rig 3 times in the past month, lol. The PO said he had used AAA, but that's getting your money's worth. I knew going in it would be a lot of work.

So, I started by working on the frame rail. Fortunately on bad case of scale rust,the only rot was found in cab corners and fuel and brake lines. For rust removal, I used a wire cone or disc on an angle grinder, maybe flab wheel, purple power, phosphoric acid, primer and paint. I chose Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer and their oil based flat black as a top coat, I brushed or rolled it on. Due to the cooler temps at the time and hoping for longer lasting results I added Majic paint hardener to the 2 top coats, who know maybe its snake oil in which case they got me.



As I went along, I removed as many brackets and hangers, pipes, etc. as I could to leave bare frame. The smaller pieces I can take to work and work on them before or after work hours, I like that part about my job. I buy consumables for myself and use them freely on work stuff, so I hope we both get a fair deal in the end.

Assorted brackets, rear driveshaft, rear entry ladder, etc.

 

[joshuak]

Cooling System

Took a peek in the radiator, decided it needed a new one. Ordered a Spectra CU850 from amazon and radiator bushings from Energy Suspension, currently waiting in a corner.



It also needed both inner fender replaced, I used LMC. I wanted to re use the battery tray support straps, but I found the replacements were different enough, that I was not able to do so.



To reinforce the area that the battery trays will be bolted to, I welded a large washer to that area and applied seam sealer. In order to get the battery trays to sit level and where they were originally (or close enough) I cut the support legs and added enough material so that it would sit level.

 

[joshuak]

Fuel System

I opted to remove everything I could from the fuel system, inspect and either refurbish, have rebuilt or replace.

New tank and sending unit


Metal lines either replaced or verified that they were in decent shape and painted, new AC Delco fuel pump, rubber lines were also replaced.




For the fuel filter I followed blueblaze's lead and installed a GM model fuel filter base. The wiring I did slightly different, the 4 wires for water in fuel I cut and spliced in the Packard 4 prong terminal from the original base, the 2 wires for the heater, I cut the plastic insulation to expose the pins then opened the white plastic contact holder from the original base slid out the original wires and replaced with the ones from the new base.





Removed the injection pump, sent to Badger diesel, installed the pump.



While it was off I checked removed the water pump and was and was happy find no play in the shaft and no signs of wear on the vanes. Not knowing any better I reinstalled it, hoping for the best.

 

[joshuak]

Charging system

I've read enough on the site about the Duvac charging system to know I want no part of it. When I purchased the truck it had been converted to 12v, I want 24v. I opted to imitate what ChevyC60 did here.

So, I pulled the engine side wiring harness and started cleaning up and removing Duvac related wires.




I had cables made by bestboatwire.com and purchased two manufactured alts. from an online auction site.

 

[joshuak]

Suspension

I've preferred to leave my '09 mostly stock, I don't feel the same way about this one. So, I got some stuff from ORD and DIY4X.

3" Springs for the front. The first picture is further proof that I have no idea what I was doing, instead of raising the springs and then axle to align the spring bolt with the hole in the spring perch, I tried using two ratchet straps as come alongs, LOL. I later figured it out and used the 2 jacks, my K9 supervisor probably thought this was hilarious.



I'm guessing they will settle down once they see some use.




Shock replacements, the old ones had more resistance to extension than compression.



Rear leaf spring pack was removed, liner was replaced as well as spring wear pads. I chose to remove the paint were the springs come in contact to each other, who knows if its needed or not.



2.5" rear shackle flip, greasable leaf spring bushings, ubolt flip and new spring perches.



To do list for suspension (at least):
set the pinion angle for the rear diff., decided how to solve mounting the front shock extension mounts and choose and set bump stops.

Probably over looking quite a few things, but this is a learning process for me.

Thanks for reading.

 

[blueblaze]

Have you received your new rad yet? If so is it copper/brass like the original or is it aluminum with plastic tanks? I've noticed the brass/copper rads are impossible to find now. On rock auto it shows the brass/copper but in the description it says it's now plastic and aluminum. BTW that fuel filter mount looks pretty sweet haha

 

[theeDIZ]

I see your staying busy!

 

[Terracoma]

I had cables made by bestboatwire.com...

I had all new battery cables built by this same company several years ago, and was very pleased with the quality.

 

[joshuak]

Have you received your new rad yet? If so is it copper/brass like the original or is it aluminum with plastic tanks? I've noticed the brass/copper rads are impossible to find now. On rock auto it shows the brass/copper but in the description it says it's now plastic and aluminum. BTW that fuel filter mount looks pretty sweet haha

The new radiator is aluminum with plastic tanks, but seems to fit exactly right. Agreed on the difficulty to find brass/copper rad. Thank you for posting up the info. on that filter.

I see your staying busy!

It's either outside practicing Ren-ching or the "honey do" list; if given the option, I'm gone.

I had all new battery cables built by this same company several years ago, and was very pleased with the quality.

Agreed, quick turn around as well. I also bought wire from there 25' sections, I'm happy.

 

[joshuak]

Glow plug system

Somebody had cobbled together a glow plug system. Push button on the dash controlled a relay on the firewall. Yikes.



I removed the wiring harness and found that the insulation had melted off two of the wires, lucky for me, they were for the temperature control plug and the new AC Delco came with its own harness.



The previous glow plug card was not worth messing with, I think. So, the only sensible solution was to get one from BMI, not only are they made in America, by Veterans, they also have some cool features that the originals don't have, read about the GPD 3.1 here. The added feature I am most excited about is the mounting stud on the card for a push button. Not that I think I will ever need it, but it will be cool to incorporate an existing hole in the dash to the overall system.

Replaced the glow plugs with AC 60g, I choose to not replace the fusible links, so used 14gauge tinned wire that leads to a Blue Sea Fuse Block, that's powered by the relay, which is fed from a 12volt source. Please excuse the lack of heat shrink on the top wire and the lack of fuses, the 15 amp that's their, came with it. The second pic. is how the ends look, heat shrink to the end of the blade connector, braided expandable mesh, to split loom.




Boy, that electrical tape looks not good, have to work on that.

 

[joshuak]

Front axle maintenance

There were a couple of warm enough to paint days here recently so I worked on the front axle, and played the clean, inspect, replace, paint, repack, etc. game. Some highlights:

Passenger disassembly.




Passenger side assembled



Drivers side mostly assembled



I don't feel I had to replace many things considering. Some parts I did replace, besides seals.



Should I replace this steering arm? Not sure about the wear on the sides and bottom.



It was 25 degree (f) yesterday with the windchill as I'm assembling the driver side, and I felt the need to pay "the stupid tax". Spent 20 minutes driving in the bearing race on the axle yoke and then I thought: hmmm that looks weird...

Pat yourself on the back if you see what I missed.

 

[joshuak]

Rag joint replacement

Comparing old vs new and the box it came in (shows the where and the what).



I wanted to retain the collapsible feature of the shaft, so I removed the difference in length (3/4") from the area in red and had the 1" DD section of the shaft welded back on, I asked that he let it cool down between welds so as to not melt the plastic retaining pins. I trust my welds enough not to do it myself.



I disassembled the top joint on the shaft, looked good. Drilled a couple holes in the DD portion to use the new joints set screws, cleaned, primed, painted, repacked top joint and here it is.

 

[joshuak]

Front shocks and starter

Not much to say (followed suppliers instructions), the shocks have roughly 1" left at full axle drop. Still working on a solution for bump stops.



New GR starter installed, with appropriate brace, new heat shield and power cables.



I was relieved to see a mud dauber nest and not a sheared bolt in that hole.



The old starter cable, someone had wrapped electrical tape around the melted insulation and reinstalled the cable... wow.

 

[joshuak]

Fuel System continued...

I linked this thread yesterday, so I'd like to bring up to date.

Continuing post #5. Unsure as to best bleed the fuel system, I temporarily added an electric fuel pump by tapping into the rubber section of fuel line behind the passenger seat. Once the system was bled, I removed pump and stored it in case of emergency.

Not that it matters much, but I set it for the pump to push through the filter as opposed to pull.


Doing this saved me quite a bit of time and frustration, as it turned out the fuel supply hose on top of the fuel tank had become pinched when I put it in, I had even lengthened those hoses a few inches. Had to drop the tank, attached longer hoses and reinstalled.

As a side note, I've had to advance the rebuilt IP maybe 3/16 past the line in order to smooth out and my attempts to get a local diesel shop to check timing has not been successful. The two opinions I've heard coincide in that "if its running and not hard to start leave it alone". Opinions?

 

[joshuak]

Suspension continued...

After I finished the work in post #7, I was left with a definite stinkbug look, not really my thing.



So I added an inch by replacing the stock 4" shackles with some 6" from diy4x.



It helped a little.



For tires, I'm currently trying to make 37"s work. I picked up a set from simp5782, great guy to work with, and mounted them on some stock Chevy r16.5. I have 10oz of dyna beads in each, with a slight bounce from 30 to 35 mph, smooth before and after. I pulled the wheels from this beauty at the jk.

 

[joshuak]

Steering

In addition to replacing the rag joint with a u joint. I also threw some more ord, diy4x and psc stuff at it.

Steering box reinforcement.



2wd steering gear


Crossover steering (yes I've clipped my nails since the pic was taken).



Took it in for an alignment, wasn't off by much with my DIY one, it's better now.

 

[joshuak]

Bump stops

I chose to limit the front spring from going into negative arc using Aeon springs by Timbren, link. Making my own extensions kept the price down, made them out of 0.25" wall 2" DOM pipe with 0.25" plate for the ends, the ends have nuts welded inside in order to bolt the spring to the extension and the extension to the bracket. With their current placement it has about 3.5" up travel.

I cycled the suspension to find the distance between the top of the spring plate and the OEM bumpstop location, and went from there. I also made a landing plate that rests on top U bolt nuts and plate, and was going to install it after re torquing down those same nuts, but although the pad does not land completely centered I don't see a need to install it as of yet.

 

[joshuak]

Driving it a little bit.

There is a long to do list, doubt it will ever end, but I have been enjoying driving her.

Went boating (12' kayak), hit some local MTB trails with my brother and took a picture next to an M8xx series tractor.