• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Monthly generator test

csheath

Active member
713
197
43
Location
FL
I think I have my monthly generator test routine down pretty good now. I use the calendar in my cell phone to remind me to check it every second Sunday of the month

I open the doors, remove the radiator cap, and feed the tube for my antifreeze hydrometer into the radiator to check antifreeze content and level. Next I remove the dipstick to check the oil level which reads almost a quart high but I know I put in the prescribed amount when I did the oil change. After that I connect my load bank and reconnect the bonding strap for the ground. Then I start the engine, holding it in start position until it has oil pressure. Next I look at the meter that I installed for voltage and Hertz to make sure it's reading. After verifying that it starts and runs properly I open both doors and look for any leaks or anything out of the ordinary. Then I close it back up and let the unit warm up. After the gauge indicates the engine is at operating temperature I will apply a small load. I will increase load amounts in progression up to the maximum 52 amps, then back it down to 40 and let it run a couple of hours. Then I remove load in progression until it has none, allowing it to cool, and finally shutting it down. After the test I will open the doors and perform another visual inspection. I finish up by topping off the fuel, disconnecting bonding strap, and load bank. I do not connect the auxiliary fuel system on every test. I may include that every so often.

After getting my machine sorted out it has never failed any of the above tests. Therefore I see no reason to run it for long runs or days at the time for testing.
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,522
760
113
Location
Va
Howdy,
I might not do it monthly.... but, when I do fire them up for testing, they will run at least a hour or two. Any testing time will be under load.
 

155mm

Chief and Indian
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,175
387
83
Location
Guymon, OK
Now if everyone would just be so religious, maintenance and operations are better than long term storage (barn rot) has killed more good equipment
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,254
23,030
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
I think I have my monthly generator test routine down pretty good now. I use the calendar in my cell phone to remind me to check it every second Sunday of the month

I open the doors, remove the radiator cap, and feed the tube for my antifreeze hydrometer into the radiator to check antifreeze content and level. Next I remove the dipstick to check the oil level which reads almost a quart high but I know I put in the prescribed amount when I did the oil change. After that I connect my load bank and reconnect the bonding strap for the ground. Then I start the engine, holding it in start position until it has oil pressure. Next I look at the meter that I installed for voltage and Hertz to make sure it's reading. After verifying that it starts and runs properly I open both doors and look for any leaks or anything out of the ordinary. Then I close it back up and let the unit warm up. After the gauge indicates the engine is at operating temperature I will apply a small load. I will increase load amounts in progression up to the maximum 52 amps, then back it down to 40 and let it run a couple of hours. Then I remove load in progression until it has none, allowing it to cool, and finally shutting it down. After the test I will open the doors and perform another visual inspection. I finish up by topping off the fuel, disconnecting bonding strap, and load bank. I do not connect the auxiliary fuel system on every test. I may include that every so often.

After getting my machine sorted out it has never failed any of the above tests. Therefore I see no reason to run it for long runs or days at the time for testing.
Could you have a MEP-803A, and have a dip stick for a MEP-802A? Or vice versa? Someone out there should measure both dip sticks, and then you could eliminate that as a cause. There might even be a part number on the dip sticks. I checked the parts manuals, and they are different.
 
Top