replacing cucv flex plate, any easy ways??

[Matt65]

...every once in a while it just spins because of the missing teeth on the flexplate.

This is where I'm at now.

For anyone in this same situation and stranded with a truck that will not start: You can manually rotate past the bad section (missing teath) in the flexplate. I use a 1/2" ratchet and socket to rotate the crank at the harmonic balancer. This is the best option I have found for trucks with automatic transmissions.

 

[100acre]

down under

This is where I'm at now.

For anyone in this same situation and stranded with a truck that will not start: You can manually rotate past the bad section (missing teath) in the flexplate. I use a 1/2" ratchet and socket to rotate the crank at the harmonic balancer. This is the best option I have found for trucks with automatic transmissions.

Im having to do that too but in a pinch or hard rain and snow I don't really relish the idea of being under my truck. Napa has a new flywheel for $58.49 item number.
BK 6005041 by Balkamp

 

[100acre]

up above

And what if you are being attacked by Zombie midgets?

 

[Matt65]

Saturn Surplus has them NOS for $25, just bought one and did the same job you are, not hard just time consuming.

Fast shipping and fair price. Mine arrived from them a couple of months ago.

 

[100acre]

pardon my ignoramusnuses but what does NOS stand for? Thanks

 

[AceHigh]

New Old Stock. Stuff that has not been installed but has been lying around for years.

 

[100acre]

saturn surplus it is

 

[badassissimo]

Im having to do that too but in a pinch or hard rain and snow I don't really relish the idea of being under my truck. Napa has a new flywheel for $58.49 item number.
BK 6005041 by Balkamp

Ya, that would be a deal breaker for me. If it magically was done from the engine compartment, I'd be a little more interested.

 

[zdubz]

Replacing Flex Plate, what to remove from tranny?

I'm in the middle of this job right now. I've got the starter and front cover off, got the shafts disconnected, and I've got the longer studs in the place of the housing bolts. I am trying to locate every thing I should remove from the tranny and t case so I can take the tranny cross member to frame rail off and slide it back in order to access flex plate bolts. So far I've unplugged everything else I could find but I'm wondering what this stainless deal is and how to remove it? It certainly won't have enough play for my to move it along with the tranny.

Thanks.

 

[porkysplace]

I'm in the middle of this job right now. I've got the starter and front cover off, got the shafts disconnected, and I've got the longer studs in the place of the housing bolts. I am trying to locate every thing I should remove from the tranny and t case so I can take the tranny cross member to frame rail off and slide it back in order to access flex plate bolts. So far I've unplugged everything else I could find but I'm wondering what this stainless deal is and how to remove it? It certainly won't have enough play for my to move it along with the tranny.

Thanks.





View attachment 690769

Vacuum modulator , it controls the shift points, just unplug the rubber hose .

 

[cucvmule]

Blue Loctite is your friend. Use on re-assembly, flywheel bolts, torque converter bolts.
If it has been said already, but make sure that the starter bracket is installed. I think I bought the last three from G.M. some years ago. For sure a hard to find part, often the wrong one is often ordered, even from G.M.
Good luck, watch your fingers....you will need them later.

 

[cucvrus]

I'm in the middle of this job right now. I've got the starter and front cover off, got the shafts disconnected, and I've got the longer studs in the place of the housing bolts. I am trying to locate every thing I should remove from the tranny and t case so I can take the tranny cross member to frame rail off and slide it back in order to access flex plate bolts. So far I've unplugged everything else I could find but I'm wondering what this stainless deal is and how to remove it? It certainly won't have enough play for my to move it along with the tranny.

Thanks.





View attachment 690769

Are you running hat truck with the transmission cooler line plugged back into each other?

 

[zdubz]

No, I just jumped them temporarily while trying to get my starter to line up and crank.

It didn't, so I just changed the flexplate. I'm wondering how to know if I put it on backwards or not? Chilton says it only mounts one way but I believe that's referring to the dowel peg and not being flipped. Right now I have it with the elongated weight on the crank side and the heightened side of the converter bolt hole facing the converter, is this orientation correct?

 

[cucvrus]

Yes. Sounds right. The recess holes are where the 6- M10 bolts go to attach the torque converter to the flex plate. Good job.

 

[Dave Kay]

Thats how i do it....Except for the "Don't get hurt" part. I always get a bloody knuckle somewhere along the way.

Amen to that! Flexplate R&R was My Hell for 2 solid days and I took more day to be sure I PROPERLY TORQUED anything and everything I unbolted--- especially your starter INCLUDING ITS SUPPORT piece on the engine block.

FYI: bad starters and/or weak batteries and/or both--- are the usual culprits that damage ring gears on our CUCV's. DO IT RIGHT and double check all your work BEFORE you spin that hulking 24 volt electric motor (starter) and you'll be happy. IMHO, and I cannot stress this enough--- the starter motor and the batteries need your diligent maintenance and attention if you wish to avoid replacing your flexplate again. Nuff' said?