alpine44
Member
- 403
- 17
- 18
- Location
- Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
Looking at the SEE parts diagram, it appears that the locker dog/clutch and piston is accessible after removing the short side of each axle.
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Maybe that's why man invented rifle drilled axle shafts?Looking at the SEE parts diagram, it appears that the locker dog/clutch and piston is accessible after removing the short side of each axle.
here is the content of the page as PDF. It shows the piston surface - just what I saw with the camera, actually.Dang! I really want to see that illustration, but Malwarebytes won't let me.
Does it look like you could poke things physically, or are the moving parts inaccessible?
Hey, you got it moving. Now it's "only" a matter of making it move freely.it did lock somewhere between 250-300psi. but now it's no longer unlocking - even with all pressure gone.
"Pushing" with significant pressure from the differential side is not an option due to the risk of blowing out the seals towards the central tube or axle housings.I did wiggle the wheel, since it is in the air. I have the gear in neutral, but the other wheel is on the ground and with the differential locked it would be the same, right?
And you are right, it's work! I may just drive it a bit.
The drainage has a M10 threat (not M10-1.5) I think M10 is the same as M10-1.0 designation. That's what I bought the grease-nipple from Grainger, it had M10 and placing both threats together it was a match - although I could not screw it in by hand all the way, I could do with the drain screw.
I'll try to measure the top screw.
I am not familiar with a NOS hydraulic handpump, but not sure if it would work, since both holes (top and bottom) are the same chamber which is pushing the piston - I guess one would need to connect the other line to the differential-box to push from the other side to assist the spring (but this may have other implications).
I would need a 'one-hose' pump/sucker type gismo,... Hmm a vacuum-pump perhaps could pull it back.
True, but on the other hand, when applying pressure, it's working against those 14.7 psi. With vacuum at least it works for us.As far as vacuum is concerned, keep in mind that 14 PSI from the other side is the max on this planet no matter how much you suck out.
There are times when we need to be careful about what we ask for. But better an eternally locked diff than open, I think. Other than tearing up the ground a bit, there's no real drawback that I can think of.I also drove it a bit and made some turns (on soft ground), but nothing unlocked the differential.
Thanks for the dimensions. I will put a pump kit, including pressure gauge, together in the next couple of weeks and will add it to the loaner tool thread. The square hydraulic pump (fluid drained) and the connections will fit easily in a flat rate box.[Alpine44]
I recommend to also add a pressure gage so you have an idea. and it allows you to check if the pressure needed the 2nd, 3rd, 4th time is decreasing...
if the plastic tubing is still somewhat good from the axle, you can cut it at about 12"-18" (clear area) and use a 1/4" quick connect to attach you pump.
The tubing originally is a 6mm OD and 4mm ID. I do not know - however - if the 1/4 tubing would fit into the nipple (it may), but the other way works.
We get it, advertisements are annoying!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!