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Leave duals or go Singles

rickdavis81

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Looking at ordering tires for my m51a2 dump. I really like the look of the 395's singled out. But is there any good reason, besides having spares, to not go singled? It's a toss up between the g177's 11.00r20's and some Michelin 395's. Cost seems to be about the same. I read somewhere that the g177's will last about 5 times longer than the 395's. What's the usual mileage you guys are getting out of tires? And will LMTV wheels fit my truck? I'm pretty sure but wanted to double check.
 

simp5782

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Looking at ordering tires for my m51a2 dump. I really like the look of the 395's singled out. But is there any good reason, besides having spares, to not go singled? It's a toss up between the g177's 11.00r20's and some Michelin 395's. Cost seems to be about the same. I read somewhere that the g177's will last about 5 times longer than the 395's. What's the usual mileage you guys are getting out of tires? And will LMTV wheels fit my truck? I'm pretty sure but wanted to double check.
35,000 highway miles out of 395 XZLs.

Duals provide better stability especially on a heavy loaded dump. You can even go up to dual 12.00s on your stock wheels in the rear and 395s on the front for better steering added tire capacity.

Yes lmtv wheels will fit.
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rickdavis81

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Well that's more miles than I'll probably ever put on it. Is the stability with singles an issue or just better with duals? From what I've seen the newer versions run singles.
 

doghead

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How do you plan to use it?
 

porkysplace

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Well that's more miles than I'll probably ever put on it. Is the stability with singles an issue or just better with duals? From what I've seen the newer versions run singles.
If your mainly driving in sand singles are probably better . But myself I would run duals on a dumper .
The newer trucks with singles (M939A2 series) also had CTIS .
 

rickdavis81

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No sand around here really. I'll haul some rock and dirt for building my new shop and house. Otherwise just putting around. I hadn't looked into 12's on the rear and 395s on the front. I assume they're the same height?
 

simp5782

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No sand around here really. I'll haul some rock and dirt for building my new shop and house. Otherwise just putting around. I hadn't looked into 12's on the rear and 395s on the front. I assume they're the same height?
They are within an inch of each other which is acceptable to run. They do it on the maxxpro trucks.

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TechnoWeenie

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1200s dualed is the way I'd go. You can air them down and have a larger footprint than a 1400 or 385, and each 1200 is rated around 8k lbs vs 12k lbs for the single, which means a dualed double axle has a tire rating of almost 32k lbs, whereas a singled dual axle would be at 24k lbs max tire rating. This means if you lose a single, you WILL have to stop, whereas with duals, you're well within the safety margin (weight wise) even if you lost a tire or 2.
 

162tcat

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1200s dualed is the way I'd go. You can air them down and have a larger footprint than a 1400 or 385, and each 1200 is rated around 8k lbs vs 12k lbs for the single, which means a dualed double axle has a tire rating of almost 32k lbs, whereas a singled dual axle would be at 24k lbs max tire rating. This means if you lose a single, you WILL have to stop, whereas with duals, you're well within the safety margin (weight wise) even if you lost a tire or 2.
This is what I wanted to do on my M817 dump but ended up going 14.00's just due to availability. I'd say 12.00's are the way to go on that.


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tobyS

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Sold my 817 and now have a 929A2 so have a reasonable comparison. There is a lot more bounce with a loaded dump truck with the single 14.00's. If I had a choice and money was not an obstacle, I'd do the dual 12.00's on the tubeless Al rims. But red's (I think it was him) recent breaking of the lugs has caused concern. I wouldn't do it without drilling the hubs and installing 1" bolts.

So I went with the 395's. I just got the rears mounted and now have to buy the fronts. They are available and have about 20% higher weight rating at pressure (which the combat wheels cannot handle). I'm hoping the 2" less height also helps with the bounce. I have local roads that are narrow, NOT flat and have no berm.

My suggestion is to stay with the 11.00 duals on the rear. I'm not sure how to do it, but I like the 365/80R20 on the front as they are the same revolution/mile as the 11.00. Unfortunately they are "metric" (M35A3 wheels)...although re-centering 6 to ten lug would not be out of the question.

Specifically...I do not like budds on the front and the 11.00 is a bit narrow for flotation if it were on a combat rim, but would widen the stance a bit.
 

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wcuhillbilly

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Sold my 817 and now have a 929A2 so have a reasonable comparison. There is a lot more bounce with a loaded dump truck with the single 14.00's. If I had a choice and money was not an obstacle, I'd do the dual 12.00's on the tubeless Al(aluminum) rims. But red's (I think it was him) recent breaking of the lugs has caused concern. I wouldn't do it without drilling the hubs and installing 1" bolts.
Yes, it was Red in the thread "Rescued wrecker" in the 5 ton section. Lost both right rear drive wheels within a mile of each other.


I run 11R22.5 one piece Budd style duals on my wrecker for the load aspect. swapping out to 12R24.5s as I and most tire shops don't like to play with the lockring wheels. motivation to go 24.5 is that mosts truckers in my area run them and its just easier to find 24.5s than 22.5s in this part of the world.
 
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red

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Ears started burning, had to find out who was talking about me haha.

My wheel studs failure is an oddball. Not the original studs and had the aluminum Caimen mrap wheels which are much thicker than the steel combat or hemmt wheels. So I'd say don't consider that failure with the common super singles setup. If the concern is aluminum wheels, maybe. My failure was caused by either the wheels or more likely a bad batch of studs (wheel manufacturer said the setup was good on the truck and they blame the studs). Either way I'm going with steel wheels only.

12r24.5 duals are what I plan to go to now, 11r24.5 if I can't find a good set of used 12's. I travel with the truck so the common availability of the commercial sizes plays a big factor.

2 things I noticed with the 395s on the wrecker. Smooth ride and the truck would lean with a side lift. Curious how the duals will compare.
 
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tobyS

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I think there is a structural problem, not having a perfect shear, by putting a bending moment on the stud. Braking hard might be disaster. I think the ball socket does not help. Filling the void, all the way so the bolt cannot bend, might stop that, but myself, I'd go to bigger bolts. I have some 25,000 lb ag hubs with 1"x 4" that would work (but not using as they fit the big wheels with 450 tires I bought). I wouldn't consider dual Al wheels without changing them.

Like you say...steel will be your best solution, thinner. Filling the area to stop bending might work with singles (and even dual).
 

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