Virtually since I bought my M1009 I have had on again, off again (most off) problems with the left front signal/parking lamp. The problem was that the front side marker blinked, but the front combo didn't blink, which really pi$$ed-off oncoming left-turn traffic at four way intersections.
I checked every ground, replaced every bulb and even changed out this and other suspect lamp sockets. Not long after any successful repair, the left front combo lamp would again fail- as evident by an annoying dim dash indicator whenever I pulled the headlights on.
Yesterday I decided to wiggle the bulb in the socket while the signal was activated. To my surprise the lamp began to function as designed. I had an "ah ha" moment that told me the problem was in the socket. (one of the newer ones). The bulb was in a limbo state- neither locked in or free to pop out. But I knew it wouldn't stay this way. I polished and bent tabs, and shot the socket out with Contact cleaner. Seemed like it was fixed, until I drove it a few miles.
Today I went to NAPA and got the spec'd replacement socket. I spliced it in and low and behold same deal! This is when I noticed that the socket grooves that lock the bulb bayonet style nubs in place were cut the same depth. I realized that the 2057BA (Amber) had nubs at two heights- they'd stay put but they wouldn't be locked in deeply enough to assure contacts with the two bulb tips. The sockets were the right part number, but did not get the bulbs fully seated. Offshore QC most likely.
Here is how I fixed it: Can't add to the grooves, so I added a drop of solder onto both bulb contacts. This brought the contacts to the bottom of the socket and they could reach the metal bands in the bottom of the socket for a secure connection.
If you have this problem with an apparent ground in you exterior lamps, check to see that the socket has been replaced with the correct part.
I believe there must be a conversion to flat blade 1157/1156/2057 bulbs.
I'll check and report my findings.
I checked every ground, replaced every bulb and even changed out this and other suspect lamp sockets. Not long after any successful repair, the left front combo lamp would again fail- as evident by an annoying dim dash indicator whenever I pulled the headlights on.
Yesterday I decided to wiggle the bulb in the socket while the signal was activated. To my surprise the lamp began to function as designed. I had an "ah ha" moment that told me the problem was in the socket. (one of the newer ones). The bulb was in a limbo state- neither locked in or free to pop out. But I knew it wouldn't stay this way. I polished and bent tabs, and shot the socket out with Contact cleaner. Seemed like it was fixed, until I drove it a few miles.
Today I went to NAPA and got the spec'd replacement socket. I spliced it in and low and behold same deal! This is when I noticed that the socket grooves that lock the bulb bayonet style nubs in place were cut the same depth. I realized that the 2057BA (Amber) had nubs at two heights- they'd stay put but they wouldn't be locked in deeply enough to assure contacts with the two bulb tips. The sockets were the right part number, but did not get the bulbs fully seated. Offshore QC most likely.
Here is how I fixed it: Can't add to the grooves, so I added a drop of solder onto both bulb contacts. This brought the contacts to the bottom of the socket and they could reach the metal bands in the bottom of the socket for a secure connection.
If you have this problem with an apparent ground in you exterior lamps, check to see that the socket has been replaced with the correct part.
I believe there must be a conversion to flat blade 1157/1156/2057 bulbs.
I'll check and report my findings.
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