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Can't figure out why it won't start

mmeridith

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1
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Location
Apopka, FL
because I don"t have the "right" bar to fit in my jackshaft u-joint to rotate and there is no clearance for the pipe wrench jaws to fit around the u-joint AND this is the big one... my 13yo son understood what I meant when I said turn THIS shaft with THIS wrench!
 

Floridianson

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Are trying to refit the actual hydraulic head unit?, As said, I could not get it seated in until we 'jiggled' the front pulley with a socket. And then the " timing marks" were not quite lined up, and from from I read they are not supposed to!. (ridiculous! why are they not marked accordingly when in the correct position with pump/engine timing). Yet Again..beats me. Seems the timing when right is one tooth off!. (the red line to mark on casting) read up posts on this. (fitting the hydraulic head).
Yes I have found that sometimes just a little baby hair turn on the crank one way or the other the Head pops out. I believe the ware in all the gears starting at the crankshaft will cause the cutout washer on top of the quill shaft to be a hair off. If the quill shaft of never turns after you remove the Head then it should drop right back in. Buy the book then yes when crank is on it's mark TDC and the IP timing window is on it's mark then the Head will be one tooth off to the rear and timing is correct. To get the head out we don't worry about the crank or timing window we just line up the Head and it's mark. The cut out washer on the quill shaft maybe could be just a hair off and holds the head in if we don't bump the quill shaft just a hair. Does not really matter what the cause we just line up the Head scribe and the IP mark and hope for the best. If not then as you said just a wiggle one way or the other on the crank and it will come out. Good to have two people in that case. One to turn crank one to lightly lift the Head.
 
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anjay22

Member
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2
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Location
Seguin, Texas
So, I should make an attempt to move the crank just enough to get the full arc on the quill shaft and it should hopefully work or drop in...

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Floridianson

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Yea I would line it up by looking down the IP hole and someone else turn the crank. Still say transmission 5th transfer case neutral and a small pry bar in between the U joint is what I do. I like my small aliment bar for this but what ever way you find to just ease the quill shaft a hair one way or the other. Then if you want do a timing check with crank and advance window on there marks and Head one tooth to the rear you are golden.
I don't see how the quill shaft would be off as you took the head out but no matter just get her done.
 
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Floridianson

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Actually the red mark will align actually where it is suppose to. It is the spring pushing on the piston that causes the red mark to "fly" by the other mark. If you where to leave out the piston spring you would see what I mean. Of course it would not work if you did that :wink: .
Trying to understand. spring pushing on piston red mark fly buy. Is the plunger and it's spring what you are talking about and what is fly buy the other mark. I never had it fly buy as I believe the only thing that can move the Head rotation is the quill shaft. The scribe mark and it's pointer lined up has the IP cam lined up so it is on low side of cam for easy install. If the cam lobe was up it would be harder to install.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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So, I should make an attempt to move the crank just enough to get the full arc on the quill shaft and it should hopefully work or drop in...

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Yes. When I do it, I use 4th gear as its 1:1 ratio and moves the gear slower.
 

dmetalmiki

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London England
Words of one syllable..Uncomplicated method (hopefully). To remove the hydraulic head, Get the engine front pulley marks lined up to your engine specification. I.E. LD. LDT. LDS. AS THE RED MARK/TOOTH appears in the head window. NO mark in the window?..Rotate engine until this happens.
Re inserting a Hydraulic head. Simply try to push it back in without force. NO GO? OK, Then "twiddle" the engine by the nut on the pulley or by the propshaft until the hydraulic head goes in..
 

rustystud

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Location
Woodinville, Washington
Trying to understand. spring pushing on piston red mark fly buy. Is the plunger and it's spring what you are talking about and what is fly buy the other mark. I never had it fly buy as I believe the only thing that can move the Head rotation is the quill shaft. The scribe mark and it's pointer lined up has the IP cam lined up so it is on low side of cam for easy install. If the cam lobe was up it would be harder to install.
Due to the fact that the piston does not want to stay at top dead center on the cam. It rotates the shaft causing the timing marks to move slightly. Remember the injection pump shaft does not make a "physical connection" to the engine. It is turned by the advance system weights. So it can and will turn independently of the engines crankshaft. All this to say, without that spring you would have perfect alignment of all timing marks. It was not designed with one tooth off.
 

Floridianson

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OK thanks had to think about it but head/quill shaft is controlled buy the governor. I believe what you are saying the governor spring pushes the advance while the spring is hooked up.
 

anjay22

Member
200
2
18
Location
Seguin, Texas
Well fellas, got the hh stabbed after some minor adjustments with the quill shaft, and she fired right up after a good battery charge. On the other hand, I somehow lost the stupid Jesus clip! What the crap!

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rustystud

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Location
Woodinville, Washington
OK thanks had to think about it but head/quill shaft is controlled buy the governor. I believe what you are saying the governor spring pushes the advance while the spring is hooked up.
Yes. Sometimes it is such a pain in the A$$ to try and get your concept across just using words. A picture is sometimes so much better.
 
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