M1008 brake lines

[kallisti5]

M1009 brake lines

Anyone know a the part numbers for a good replacement set of rubber or SS brake lines for the 1986 M1009?
I know mine are getting close to failure (original) and want to get them fixed before I'm stuck on the side of the road somewhere.

Given the uniqueness of our vehicles (and me being out in the country) i want a sure-fire replacement set.
Stock height.

Thanks!


EDIT: This is the M1009 not the M1008.

 

[Chaski]

Crown Performance in California.

They make nice hoses, would be worth a phone call. Not everything is listed on their website. If you can think of a brake hose they will make it for you. I know it is a pain when you are not at home and can't measure what you have. Crown makes all of the hoses that offroad design sells. I'm sure they would be willing to make you a stock height version, as ORD only sells longer versions for lifts. The hoses really are superior. The front ones mount with a bulkhead nut instead of a flimsy clip.

 

[The FLU farm]

Anyone know a the part numbers for a good replacement set of rubber or SS brake lines for the 1986 M1008?
Given the uniqueness of our vehicles (and me being out in the country) i want a sure-fire replacement set.

If you look at it as an '86 K-30 it is far from unique. There are lots of choices out there for them.

 

[kallisti5]

Eh. The confusion comes in when you look at the options.

This is the M1008 radio truck which i've always thought was closer to the 1986 Blazer K5.
The K5 and the K-10 take two different front brake lines.

EDIT: This is the M1009 I assume. Which means just stick to Chevy Blazer K5 parts?

 

[The FLU farm]

If it's really an M1009, yeah, then you you should look for K-5 parts.

 

[kallisti5]

Thanks The only identification I had was the make/model of CD-10516 which shows up as M1009 after some searching.

 

[The FLU farm]

Good, then you should be all set.

 

[cucvrus]

Well I didn't know.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

First thing you need to know is that it is not an 86, no matter what year it was made. The Army wanted long-term parts interchangeability, so everything is for the 1984 model year. Go buying stuff for an 86 and it might not fit.

I have to disagree with Rick on this. I have had to replace more than one rusted out brake line, and that's just not something to play with. Look into the cupro-nickel brake line. More corrosion resistant than stainless steel, and easier to work with than regular steel. Better than the best of both worlds.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Save the cash for something else. If it were me (I use my trucks as salt, snow plow, mud and off road) I would go to the auto parts store and purchase a coil of 3/16" brake tubing, a double flaring tool, and what ever fittings you need and make a set of brake lines. The ones that run in the frame front to back are 1/4". I live in the north east. We have rust. I can only recall changing brake lines on any of my trucks a few times. Do as you wish. But IMHO. The extra cash spend on SS brake lines is wasted money. Unless you are running in pure salt water. Forming , cutting , flaring hard brake tubing is a cinch. Take you time measure twice and cut once. Do as you wish. Just a suggestion. I also hear they don't fit as well anyway. That's hear say. Have a great day.

He is referring to the rubber lines and asking about a braided stainless replacement.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Yep, you're correct.

 

[kallisti5]

He is referring to the rubber lines and asking about a braided stainless replacement.

Correct. Decided to keep the rubber and just order a new set.

Anyone have any thoughts about converting from DOT 5 to DOT 5.1?

I know about all the issues mixing DOT 5 with "DOT 3/4/5.1", but figured while I was replacing the rotten rubber
lines it might be a good time since the closest auto part store/lube place is 45 minutes away and every fast-lube
place assumes DOT 3. (When I got the vehicle, it looks like someone already mistakenly mixed DOT 3 + DOT 5, so i'm already not dealing with a pristine system)




I really don't need the "storage benefits" of the DOT 5 fluid. I'm asking all this retrospectively since
i've already had that mess pumped out and flushed with DOT 3.


(I mentioned DOT 5.1 above since as I understand it, the characteristics of DOT 5.1 are a lot closer to DOT 5 minus the silicone... so that's my long-term goal)

 

[The FLU farm]

the closest auto part store/lube place is 45 minutes away and every fast-lube place assumes DOT 3.

With one exception (NAPA being only 11 miles away) the parts stores are 65 to 85 miles away for me. Which I why I rely heavily on mail order.
Whichever grade of brake fluid you decide on, be sure to buy enough to thoroughly flush the system out.

 

[sneekyeye]

I would expect to flush it once and not be happy with how clean the fluid is. When I did my flush, it never did get all that clean. Run it a week or two depending on how much it's driven, then do it again once the system has been used and shaken with the new fluid in it. More stuff will come out. And get a brush and clean the master cylinder reservoir and suck it out with a vacuum bleeder.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Somewhere floating around the Internet there is a TM on how to do the flush that is required. IIRC, you use alcohol to flush it. I remember reading somewhere that the military went back to the DOT3 type. They found they didn't get the benefits of the synthetic that they were expecting.

I know there is a hot debate about it, but if the difference were clear-cut, there wouldn't be a debate. For me, it comes down to this: it's just easier to use the same kind that almost everybody else is using. Much less chance of getting the wrong thing in there.

I'm sure I'll have to do a brake overhaul on mine sometime soon, and I'll do a complete overhaul of everything, flush and convert to the DOT 3 type.

 

[kallisti5]

I'm sure I'll have to do a brake overhaul on mine sometime soon, and I'll do a complete overhaul of everything, flush and convert to the DOT 3 type.

I can say after having the DOT 3 flushed into it:

1. Pedal travel is a *lot* less and a lot more precise.
2. Braking performance is a lot more even and consistent. (that may be just becuse of the horrible DOT 3 + 5 mix I had before though)
3. The Brake warning light came on and I haven't been able to reset it. (There is a rubber button behind the front bumper to reset the brake balance valve (Can't think of the proper name of it at the moment), but I confirmed it isn't tripped)

So minus the slightly annoying #3, everything else has been great. I'll likely flush with more dot 3 after I put some use on the brakes to make sure all the 5 is gone.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

I can say after having the DOT 3 flushed into it:

1. Pedal travel is a *lot* less and a lot more precise.
2. Braking performance is a lot more even and consistent. (that may be just becuse of the horrible DOT 3 + 5 mix I had before though)
3. The Brake warning light came on and I haven't been able to reset it. (There is a rubber button behind the front bumper to reset the brake balance valve (Can't think of the proper name of it at the moment), but I confirmed it isn't tripped)

So minus the slightly annoying #3, everything else has been great. I'll likely flush with more dot 3 after I put some use on the brakes to make sure all the 5 is gone.

Two things will set the warning light, parking brake and tripped proportion valve. Typically a good hard stomp will reset it, if not, and depends on which way it tripped, then there is a rubber boot on one end and a pin that sometimes can reset-sometimes it doesn't because the valve is bad. (PV2 is the correct valve for disc front, drum rear)

You can disconnect the wire to proportion valve and the light should go out, if it doesnt, check your parking brake or for a broken wire on the proportion valve side.

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