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Parts 803a a (making it a runner)

NATCAD

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I have had a chance to review my 'parts' 803 to see about making it a runner.

It suffers from missing a panel and an exhaust flapper. Worst of all it has had water migrate thru muffler and past a valve and is sitting in the oil sump.

My plan is to drain the fuel and the oil, and run diesel through and flush the engine and the fuel tank out.

Then fresh oil, and fresh coolant, and to try for a start.

Any thoughts on that as an idea?

IMG_4846.jpg
 

Daybreak

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Howdy,
Look over the forum with water damage in the engine. There are a few ways to verify what you might be dealing with. Can you turn it over by hand?

Drain all fluids, have or barrow a scope, remove exhaust, look at cylinders, valves etc... There are some good threads from members which have gone through this...

If you think there is water in the system, do stuff by hand. Having batteries and cranking would not be the first method I would employ.

good luck
 
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Guyfang

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Very sound advice. Don't rush it, check it. Turn the engine by hand. Remember, if you have fluids in a cylinder, and you try and turn it over, it not going to work. Pull the injectors first. Give the fluid a way out.
 

NATCAD

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Thank you guys.

The oil was a milky colour, (coolant bottle was green and without oil) and I could see water in muffler from top.

Will do it by hand.
 

Bmxenbrett

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That dosnt sounds good. Water sitting on the valves is prety bad. Much less on the piston. I would start by pulling the injectors like Guy said. Turn it by hand, if its free you might want to put about a cup of marvel mistery oil in each cylinder to hopefully free any stuck rings. Leave it for a few days then rotate by hand a few times a day for a few days. The last thing you want to do is go cranking the engine with a stuck ring, u will be rebuilding it prety fast after that.
I would keep the crank case drained the whole time you have MM oil in the cylinders. If you get red oil out the drain plug its time to stop and pull the engine appart.

Let us know what you find please and good luck
 

NATCAD

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1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg

Engine has had a lot of water in it. Today we drained the oil mixture. Removed the muffler. Full top/lid. Intake and exhaust manifolds. We poured a few litres of diesel into the engine. We will let time do it's work now.
I'm impressed with the quality of the multi layer steel gaskets used.
I'm sad no one could put a plug in the exhaust to keep this motor dry before I got it.
 

Bmxenbrett

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Is that s ball of rust clogging the exhaust? If this thing runs more than 5hrs i praise you. Keep us updated.
 

NATCAD

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Update - engine is free and turning over.

Need new exhaust and intake gaskets - any suggestions on best place / price to get them?
 
Last edited:

NATCAD

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If I am doing this right, it looks like the intake part number is 186-6202 and might be part of a kit PN 186-6211, or PN 186-6213

The exhaust gasket is PN# 186-6208 part of kit 186-6211

Can I resuse studs and nuts?
 
Last edited:

Guyfang

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You are doing it right. Also look up the NSN's and look for the parts that way.

If you think the fasteners are still good, reuse them. I always did with non turbine engines.

The kit 186-6202 cost the gov, $15.00
The kit 186-6211 cost the gov, $115.00

So 186-6211 is the big gaskit kit. You get Everything.
 

Daybreak

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Howdy,

Howdy,
Exhaust manifold gaskets
MEP-802a DN2M
MEP-803a DN4M
Exhaust Manifold
Lister-Petter PN#751-10103
Onan PN#186-6206
NSN 5330-01-356-7137
MEP-8xx exhaust manifold gasket 1.jpg


MEP-802/803 Muffler gasket
Lister Petter PN#366-01287
PN#14153-02766
NSN# 5330-01-390-5185
MEP-8x3a muffler gasket 1.jpg
 
Last edited:

Guyfang

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Thank you daybreak and guy fang.

In the future - how do I take the part numbers and find the manufacturer ? What document do I cross reference that with?

Go to the parts manual for the engine. Look for the gaskets you want. Or the kits, doesn't matter. Look at the discription. At the top, you will see FSCM printed. Look directly down, to the row where your gasket is listed. THe number 44940 is the FSCM for the gasket you want. Every supplier of parts to the army, has FSCM, to identify the supplier of THAT part to the army. See description below.
(1) FSCM Column, The Federal Supply Code for Manufacturer (FSCM) is a 5-digit numeric code used toidentify the manufacturer, distributor, or Government agency, etc., that supplies the item.

You can type in FSCM 44940 in your browser and get the name of the supplier.
FSCM 44940= [FONT=Arial, sans-serif] Onan Division

[/FONT][FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Now we know that the parts made for a Lister-Peter engine are made by Lister-Petter. But the army doesn't always buy just from Lister-Petter. The below listed companies ALSO supplied parts to the army. And there are LOTS more.

[/FONT]
97947LISTER PETTER AMERICAS INCORPORATED 815 E HWY 56 OLATHE66061-4914UNITED STATES
Z0W75DIESEL AND MACHINERY PTY LTD 540 CITY RD PO BOX 585SOUTH MELBOURNE3205AUSTRALIA
Z2526BTR ENGINEERING (AUST) LTD 211-221 WARREN RD SMITHFIELD2164AUSTRALIA


The reason this all comes about is thus. Onan builds the COMPLETE gen set. It assembles it from parts THEY source. They also supply parts to the army. So the army is the official parts supplier. At some point in time, the army decides to let a contract for parts, to the lowest bidder. and that's where the list of SECONDARY supplies come from. The same thing happens in the real world. You go to "generator parts unlimited" parts store and order your gaskets. They order them from Lister-Petter. Same, same.
 

TheAlfredo

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Location
Miami, FL
I just bought a 803a missing the exhaust flap as well. But I did see it run in a video before purchasing. Today was the first time I saw it in person. They had put fluids in the engine before I purchased it. There are paint markings stating "All fluids Drained"...guessing from when it was in storage.

My unit has 6.2 hours on it and it looks brand new.

I checked the oil and coolant. Coolant was very low, so I topped it off. Oil did look slightly milky (I will double check tomorrow. I was planning on draining the oil anyway, as I want to put "Break In Oil"..wasn't sure if the oil they added was regular oil.

I ran it today for maybe 10 minutes....ran great. The only anomaly was the Hertz kept moving from 57-64....back and forth in that range. I would adjust the throttle....but it wont stay still. I don't know if it is because it doesn't have a load on it...?

And when I turn of the motor, it wouldn't crank back up. Like if it didn't have diesel or not firing....it would just turn over. I thought I was doing something wrong (as it is my first time)...checked everything. And 2 minutes later, it started right up again. Any thoughts?
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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I just bought a 803a missing the exhaust flap as well. But I did see it run in a video before purchasing. Today was the first time I saw it in person. They had put fluids in the engine before I purchased it. There are paint markings stating "All fluids Drained"...guessing from when it was in storage.

My unit has 6.2 hours on it and it looks brand new.

I checked the oil and coolant. Coolant was very low, so I topped it off. Oil did look slightly milky (I will double check tomorrow. I was planning on draining the oil anyway, as I want to put "Break In Oil"..wasn't sure if the oil they added was regular oil.

I ran it today for maybe 10 minutes....ran great. The only anomaly was the Hertz kept moving from 57-64....back and forth in that range. I would adjust the throttle....but it wont stay still. I don't know if it is because it doesn't have a load on it...?

And when I turn of the motor, it wouldn't crank back up. Like if it didn't have diesel or not firing....it would just turn over. I thought I was doing something wrong (as it is my first time)...checked everything. And 2 minutes later, it started right up again. Any thoughts?
Howdy,
You have arrived at the right place.
Do a bunch of reading here in the forums.

Start here for a bunch of info

MEP-802/803 Filters and Parts , the second post has quick links to other important items. Farther in the thread has other updated items too.

and yes, GovPlanet puts standard bulk 15w-40 oil in. Yes, you should drain that oil and use Break-in oil. If you are seeing signs of milky oil. The that shows signs of water into the system. GovPlanet knows a generator which runs, will of course sell more than a unit which does not run.

Break-In oil for the low hour MEPS

Make preparation to start your unit and put a load on it via the lugs. The convenience receptacle is 10 amps only. Double check all the gauges against a good multi-meter.

Either fabricate a exhaust flap, or make a little stack with rain cap, or piping which goes to the side and down.

good luck
 

TheAlfredo

Member
165
11
18
Location
Miami, FL
What are your thoughts on the Hertz bouncing around? or is that because it doesn't have a load? I thought you had to adjust the Hertz before putting on a load.

Howdy,
You have arrived at the right place.
Do a bunch of reading here in the forums.

Start here for a bunch of info

MEP-802/803 Filters and Parts , the second post has quick links to other important items. Farther in the thread has other updated items too.

and yes, GovPlanet puts standard bulk 15w-40 oil in. Yes, you should drain that oil and use Break-in oil. If you are seeing signs of milky oil. The that shows signs of water into the system. GovPlanet knows a generator which runs, will of course sell more than a unit which does not run.

Break-In oil for the low hour MEPS

Make preparation to start your unit and put a load on it via the lugs. The convenience receptacle is 10 amps only. Double check all the gauges against a good multi-meter.

Either fabricate a exhaust flap, or make a little stack with rain cap, or piping which goes to the side and down.

good luck
 
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