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Upgrading a M923A2 for Fire Department Usage

check58

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DRMS has had MRAP alternators listed in new condition in RCP. 400+ amp. No cost to FD and if in RCP status they pay the shipping to a UIC you designate (such as a local NG armory).
I wish it was that simple, but our state routes acquisitions through our forestry commission and they have flat refused to go after parts. BTW the hatch on top of the tank i pretty much even with the top of the cage, therefore you wouldn't gain any difference by cutting the top off. I also noticed that the SIXCON sits lower than the top of the cab, when placed in the bed of a M923.
 
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check58

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Cutting off the bottom of the cage would only decrease the height by an inch or so, but I think you would lose a good bit of protection for the tank. Not worth it in my opinion.
 

check58

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So when do you need me to come up and give you State boys a few pointers on military trucks?

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Ha! With the exception of the alternator, the truck runs and drives real well!. I'm to the point of a little fabrication, then painting it. If our other stuff would quit breaking, I'd probably be done by now. Case in point, I sent one to the transmission shop for a fluid and filter change, it came back with a broken exhaust hanger and a muffler hanging less than an inch from the ground! The upside is, the transmission is shifting much better!
 

check58

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So as an update, our project is moving along. We've got a 10 foot paint job on the truck, and have worked out most of the mechanical gremilins.

I've got 2 problems, I hope someone might have an answer to,

1. Recently when driving, after pumping the brakes a few times, the rear brakes don't release when the pedal is released. However if you open the valve for the trailer service brake connection, air releases, and the brakes unlock. Obviously I don't want to ride around with this valve open, as I'll loose a good bit of air pressure when doing a lot of braking. Any ideas?

When our alt died, it took the ABS module with it, I swapped a new controller on it, but still get the ABS light. I notice it isn't doing the self check at startup either. I'm hoping the fuse blew, but I'm having difficulty locating it. Any idea where it might be?

Thanks in advance for the help!
 

Swamp Donkey

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So as an update, our project is moving along. We've got a 10 foot paint job on the truck, and have worked out most of the mechanical gremilins.

I've got 2 problems, I hope someone might have an answer to,

1. Recently when driving, after pumping the brakes a few times, the rear brakes don't release when the pedal is released. However if you open the valve for the trailer service brake connection, air releases, and the brakes unlock. Obviously I don't want to ride around with this valve open, as I'll loose a good bit of air pressure when doing a lot of braking. Any ideas?

When our alt died, it took the ABS module with it, I swapped a new controller on it, but still get the ABS light. I notice it isn't doing the self check at startup either. I'm hoping the fuse blew, but I'm having difficulty locating it. Any idea where it might be?

Thanks in advance for the help!
The front right glad hand cover should have a bobblehead vent. Make sure it isn't clogged. There shouldn't be a cut-off valve on this gladhand. If there is then make sure it's open or remove it completely. The service side must vent or you end up with the problem you have.

There is a 3A and 15A fuse under the dash. Check the 15A fuse that protects the ECU. The 3A fuse protects the light.
 

74M35A2

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If it is not either fuse, then the ABS module will need to he replaced. It is located on the pass side, basically above the middle axle. This is a common failure.
 

check58

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The front right glad hand cover should have a bobblehead vent. Make sure it isn't clogged. There shouldn't be a cut-off valve on this gladhand. If there is then make sure it's open or remove it completely. The service side must vent or you end up with the problem you have.

There is a 3A and 15A fuse under the dash. Check the 15A fuse that protects the ECU. The 3A fuse protects the light.
I'll have to look at the front and see if there are cutoff valves, I know there is one on each side on the back.

Thanks for the fuse locations!
 

check58

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If it is not either fuse, then the ABS module will need to he replaced. It is located on the pass side, basically above the middle axle. This is a common failure.
I've changed the module with a second unit, without any change in results. I'm hoping that the fuse blew.
 
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simp5782

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I've changed the module with a second unit, without any change in results. I'm hoping that the fuse blew.
There is such a thing as bad parts. even NOS. If you have a water tanker on it then you really don't need ABS as it will keep the tires down with the weight. The abs upgrade was mostly for empty trucks traveling at highway speeds sudden braking and the rear end lifts. Fuses are easy to get to if you take off both starter and battery switches and drop those down. It makes it easier to locate them IMO.
 

check58

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There is such a thing as bad parts. even NOS. If you have a water tanker on it then you really don't need ABS as it will keep the tires down with the weight. The abs upgrade was mostly for empty trucks traveling at highway speeds sudden braking and the rear end lifts. Fuses are easy to get to if you take off both starter and battery switches and drop those down. It makes it easier to locate them IMO.
I completely agree, unfortunately in my case the weight in the back is irrelevant. For insurance and liability purposes I can't allow a vehicle in service that has issues with any type of safety equipment. One of the first things that gets pulled in any investigation, are the inspection sheets. It's cheaper for me to fix the issue, than to deal with the potential litigation from any accident. The world we live in.... SMH!
 

simp5782

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I completely agree, unfortunately in my case the weight in the back is irrelevant. For insurance and liability purposes I can't allow a vehicle in service that has issues with any type of safety equipment. One of the first things that gets pulled in any investigation, are the inspection sheets. It's cheaper for me to fix the issue, than to deal with the potential litigation from any accident. The world we live in.... SMH!
Well then you need a new insurance company then. You can simply swap the abs modules with R8 modules and its a non abs truck at that point. Since abs was an add on it takes 20mins to swap both valves. My insurance company knows my abs system is inop and i am still covered for 1 million on bodily damage and 600,000 cargo.

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check58

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Well then you need a new insurance company then. You can simply swap the abs modules with R8 modules and its a non abs truck at that point. Since abs was an add on it takes 20mins to swap both valves. My insurance company knows my abs system is inop and i am still covered for 1 million on bodily damage and 600,000 cargo.

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That sounds like a commercial policy, which there are several providers to choose from. Insurance for Public Safety is a much different animal. It's also a much smaller market with many restrictions and requirements. We don't insure the vehicles per say, more like we insure the organization. 15 Stations, 40+ vehicles, 200+ people. I'd rather just fix the ABS. The attorney fees for 2 hours are more expensive than swapping the module.
 

check58

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Alright I closed the service brake connection valve on the rear and took the glad hand cover off of the front. I had another guy pump the brakes. I could feel air coming out of the front connection after he released the pedal. After a few pumps the brake pedal becomes firm and the rear brakes remain locked, all while leaving the front cover off. A quick turn of the valve on the rear connection and air releases / the rear brakes unlock. What am I missing?
 

simp5782

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Alright I closed the service brake connection valve on the rear and took the glad hand cover off of the front. I had another guy pump the brakes. I could feel air coming out of the front connection after he released the pedal. After a few pumps the brake pedal becomes firm and the rear brakes remain locked, all while leaving the front cover off. A quick turn of the valve on the rear connection and air releases / the rear brakes unlock. What am I missing?
You do not need to pump air brakes. Pumping air brakes just loses air pressure. Apply them firmly and you should have a pedal. You should apply them and your air pressure should drop 10psi on a tank and hold pressure while the pedal is applied.
Is the truck jacked up so that you know all the rear wheels are locking up? Or maybe its a stuck wedge.

You should have some air out of the front gladhand. By opening the rear service port your opening the same air line that comes in from the drivers frame rail to both abs modules. That line comes from the treadle valve and nothing else. Try pulling the treadle valve line and see if you have air pressure bleeding over to that line after the pedal is pressed and then released.

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check58

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You do not need to pump air brakes. Pumping air brakes just loses air pressure. Apply them firmly and you should have a pedal. You should apply them and your air pressure should drop 10psi on a tank and hold pressure while the pedal is applied.
Is the truck jacked up so that you know all the rear wheels are locking up? Or maybe its a stuck wedge.

You should have some air out of the front gladhand. By opening the rear service port your opening the same air line that comes in from the drivers frame rail to both abs modules. That line comes from the treadle valve and nothing else. Try pulling the treadle valve line and see if you have air pressure bleeding over to that line after the pedal is pressed and then released.

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The air only gets into the system when the pedal is intentionally pressed. It's just not dumping the air after the pedal is released. Looking a the schematics, it seems the relay valves in the back are responsible for dumping the air, I'm going to check and see if any of them are clogged up. May try to run some tool oil through the system too. I know for a fact the 3rd axle is locking up due to the paint burning off the drums. I need to check the 2nd one.
 

simp5782

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The air only gets into the system when the pedal is intentionally pressed. It's just not dumping the air after the pedal is released. Looking a the schematics, it seems the relay valves in the back are responsible for dumping the air, I'm going to check and see if any of them are clogged up. May try to run some tool oil through the system too. I know for a fact the 3rd axle is locking up due to the paint burning off the drums. I need to check the 2nd one.
Just hook your air compressor into the front service gladhand and it will apply the brakes. It could be a sticking inversion valve as well. If you have not downloaded the p2p program i would do so. I know where every air line on the truck goes and its operation and i still have gremlins that confuse me. Your abs modules have vents on the bottom of them. Air dumps back from the service cans into the 2nd port tree from the rear on top of each axle. It then goes back to the stack vent.

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