Dash lights and other gauge cluster repairs

[REDWOLF]

I am getting ready to replace the bulbs in my gauge cluster, plus try to figure out why my volt gauge is not working. Any tricks or things I need to know before I start?

Thanks

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Voltage gauge may be the resistor on the back. Easily fixed. Check it with an ohmmeter. Should be ~300 ohms, +- 10% or so. There are lots of good alternatives to consider. It's been discussed a lot.

Clean all the sockets. Use CRC Contact cleaner. Do NOT use brake cleaner! Pipe cleaners can be useful. Give everything a light coat of dielectric grease when reassembling. Bulb sockets and connectors.


EDIT: This thread has some good suggestions on the voltage gauge.

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

I am getting ready to replace the bulbs in my gauge cluster, plus try to figure out why my volt gauge is not working. Any tricks or things I need to know before I start?

Thanks

I know it's an obvious one but make sure to disconnect the batteries before you begin. The voltmeter can be grounded out pretty easily. Once you have the voltmeter out you can check the wiring to it for voltage.

 

[REDWOLF]

This is how I found the volt gauge hooked up in the back. does not look right to me. But not sure.

 

[REDWOLF]

There is no resistor at all there.

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

That's not a factory style gauge. The Packard connector would indicate it's for another military vehicle. I'm not sure that it's hooked up correct anyway, typically on other MVs it would have a wire going to the rubber connector. I'd check the voltage at the plug on the truck side first. If it's got voltage there then either the gauge is bad or it's not wired correctly.

 

[REDWOLF]

Anyone have a idea of what this gauge is and how to wire it up? could it be a 24 volt gauge? It was in the truck when I got it but never worked. I can get a picture of the front of the gauge.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Yes, please post a pic of the front. You might have a 24v gauge, which is not a bad thing. We just need to figure out how it's supposed to be wired.

Of course, since it was mis-wired, it might be fried....

 

[REDWOLF]

This is the front

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

Looks like the one's Erik's sells for HMMWVs. Their site says don't connect a wire to the SEND side, which yours looks like it has.
http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/bavogah12.html

I believe you want power going into the rubber connector side instead.

 

[REDWOLF]

Ok. Then we're does the negative go. I am assuming the red is positive and the black is negative?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Feh. No actual temperature readings. If you are going to have a non-standard gauge, you might as well have one that actually tells you something useful.

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

Ok. Then we're does the negative go. I am assuming the red is positive and the black is negative?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

The black should go to ground, which I believe it is going to now. If you look real close at the gauge each post should be labeled.

 

[Warthog]

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?123199-CUCV-Helpful-Threads

Read the Instrument Cluster threads

 

[n8roro]

If you have a cordless drill with a 12 or 18V battery you can connect the terminals on the gauge to the battery with alligator clips or short lengths of wire to test it. I just went through this and ended up getting a new 24V gauge with usb chargers from Amazon and putting a temp gauge on the old voltmeter spot. The resistor was bad on the old one and the new gauge is smaller than the old one is why I went that route. I also ended up ordering some resistors to try to get the old one working again but they have not arrived yet.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ePgHGpcgFBct7WrB2