Resurrecting a waterlogged mep-803A

[Guyfang]

Here's a trick you can use where it's cold, or your batteries are low and you just NEED to get an engine running. We used to start our trucks and gen sets on our missle site this way, and you don't need to use anything that could damage an engine.

Remove air filter. Take a rod with a rag tied to the end. Dip it in diesel. Shake off excess fuel. Light it on fire. Hold it in front of the air intake. Start gen set. And it will start, right now! The heated air trick works every time, and no worries about damage to the engine. We used this method in -20 or -30 cel. Later, we used a small butain torch.

 

[1800 Diesel]

On the truck forums, people suggest soaking a rag in gasoline and placing it in or around the intake. I have never done it but if I were to, I would rather spray it in with a spray bottle.

I used to do the "gas on a rag" method for my Perkins 6-354 in my shrimp boat whenever I had to start up in the wintertime (no glow plugs on this engine) and it worked great. I quit using that method however as I didn't really want gasoline on my boat even in small amounts and also there's always the risk of the engine ingesting the rag when it starts up. My father-in-law from Michigan (who had lots of experience starting diesels in freezing or sub-freezing temps) taught me the WD-40 trick on an old Mack diesel truck he had and I've been using that method ever since. Still keep a can of starting fluid, but rarely ever use it.

 

[justacitizen]

my farm tractor has a "Thermostart" installed on the intake manifold. it is basically a small coil like a cigarette lighter and when it gets hot a small valve opens and allows a small amount of diesel fuel onto the coil. when this happens it produces a small flame in the manifold and the engine starts right off.

 

[Kenny0]

Sounds like a variation of multifuel engine cold start assist.

 

[Demoh]

Ive been pretty short on time to work on the unit lately but every 3-5 days ive been soaking the injection lines in PB for when I actually return to the unit. (am in the process of setting up my home shop and moving everything)

However, say worse case scenario this engine is toast, I did pick up a 15 hr 400hz unit for real cheap. Like I could part out 25% of the unit (not engine) then scrap the case and gen head to break even cheap.

Hypothetically, would it be easier to swap the engine in the unit I have, or swap out the 400hz components in the other unit? The 400hz unit is in much better shape; doesnt have a welded skid, riveted hacked together panels, and dust from Kuwait like this high hour unit I have.

The plus side is I will be able to rip apart the 400hz alternator and see if its feasible to go from 24 pole to 4 pole.

 

[DieselAddict]

I think the chances of inducing other problems is lower with an engine swap. The more stuff you disconnect the more opportunities you'll have that an error can happen.

When you have the option go with the simplest, least invasive repair.

 

[Guyfang]

Ive been pretty short on time to work on the unit lately but every 3-5 days ive been soaking the injection lines in PB for when I actually return to the unit. (am in the process of setting up my home shop and moving everything)

However, say worse case scenario this engine is toast, I did pick up a 15 hr 400hz unit for real cheap. Like I could part out 25% of the unit (not engine) then scrap the case and gen head to break even cheap.

Hypothetically, would it be easier to swap the engine in the unit I have, or swap out the 400hz components in the other unit? The 400hz unit is in much better shape; doesnt have a welded skid, riveted hacked together panels, and dust from Kuwait like this high hour unit I have.

The plus side is I will be able to rip apart the 400hz alternator and see if its feasible to go from 24 pole to 4 pole.

Partner, do you know what a SMR code is? It is a code to tell you how to tell the difference between the different models of your gen set. Lucky for you, there is only two. The 60 hertz model, and 400 hertz model. What you need to do, is look at your parts manual. READ it. Then look at the SMR code, next to the parts in the Generator manual. The engine manual is uninteresting. There are more then a few parts that are different. So if you plan on just pulling the main generator on the 400 hertz model, you better plan again. It's simply not that easy. Do able? Yeah it is. A lot of work? Oh yeah. I have done it. More then once. If you are retired, and got time on your hands, and are willing to read the parts manual, no problem.

If I were in your shoes, I would simply strip down the 60 hertz model, swap engines, and all the parts that need to be replaced. And you could start with the skid. But you are going to have to pay attention to the SMR code. It's mostly electrical parts and wire harnesses. At the end of the day, it's not a complicated gen set. But simply changing the main gen will only burn up a bunch of parts.

 

[justacitizen]

Thanks. i didn't know what an SMR code was but can see how useful it is. sometimes the military manuals are a little difficult for me to understand at first but persistence pays off.

 

[jamawieb]

Like Guy suggest, just swap the engine, to many small electronics to trade out.

 

[Guyfang]

I have written about the SMR code a few times. You can look up the threads, or give a shout, I will give you a rundown here. The TM, is a slippery beast. The older the book, the worse it is. And still, lots of good info in them.

If you do just the engine, then like I said, trade out the other parts you think are better. If you start in the morning, you can have that baby stripped down to the bone in just a few hours. Fact is, I would love to come over and do it for you!! I don't think it's a hard job.

 

[Demoh]

Partner, do you know what a SMR code is? It is a code to tell you how to tell the difference between the different models of your gen set. Lucky for you, there is only two. The 60 hertz model, and 400 hertz model. What you need to do, is look at your parts manual. READ it. Then look at the SMR code, next to the parts in the Generator manual. The engine manual is uninteresting. There are more then a few parts that are different. So if you plan on just pulling the main generator on the 400 hertz model, you better plan again. It's simply not that easy. Do able? Yeah it is. A lot of work? Oh yeah. I have done it. More then once. If you are retired, and got time on your hands, and are willing to read the parts manual, no problem.

If I were in your shoes, I would simply strip down the 60 hertz model, swap engines, and all the parts that need to be replaced. And you could start with the skid. But you are going to have to pay attention to the SMR code. It's mostly electrical parts and wire harnesses. At the end of the day, it's not a complicated gen set. But simply changing the main gen will only burn up a bunch of parts.

Not familiar with that terminology but when I was studying the manuals before posting here for other issues I saw the differences between units. I am aware that I could use the manuals to get all of this work done even though their methods are different than commercial tech manuals that I am used to. To me the TMs are gold and when it comes to actual work I always have it by my side. (I have a friend with generators too and whenever he asks me something I sometimes find myself telling him to go RTFM.) But sometimes its easier to ask for opinions or see if a quick answer is available

So what it sounds like if I want to get a nice looking generator I would swap the skid and case instead of moving everything over to the good skid / case?