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Mid-roadtrip NEED LMTV tires, I-90 anywhere between SD, WY, MY, ID or WA

155mm

Chief and Indian
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Guymon, OK
We will be east bound from Missoula tomorrow noon to i-25 to i-70, if you need help pm me
 

MJT

New member
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Location
SoCal / Seattle
Thanks for the help everyone!
Looks like the tread is going to be able to get us home.. That's not the issue now...
We are stuck in Spokane. Travel America in Missoula overfill are oil on the oil change by 4 gallons and didn't check dipstick after filling it. By about 20 miles down the road it was obvious something is wrong. Pulled over to find oil running all down the underside. Their field tech met us on the side of the road and found the problem, drained 4 gallons, and said we were good to go. As we started to drive the oil pressure was pretty high and there was a little noise that I could notice, I was going to take it back to Missoula but after calling the mechanic told me there was no need and it was fine. When we made it to the Travel America in Spokane, the oil was no longer correct it was about half a gallon low and was leaking out of the blow by. There was also a high-pitched ticking or chirping that I was noticing right about when we hit Washington State border. We spent the night in Spokane since they don't have an ASE Certified mechanic at night, and he supposed to look the engine over today. I'm hoping I just blew a seal, but the noise makes me think it could also be something worse, like a seal got pushed further in or something. Thoughts? If anyone has a lot of experience with the 3116 motor or if anyone has done something stupid like this before, or even if you know what would obviously fail if something like this happens, I would love to be able to point the mechanic in the right direction.

Also, these guys don't know much about the hydraulic system, that's one thing that doesn't look so awesome on my truck. Pump and hand crank isn't enough to raise the cab. I'm pretty sure it's low on fluid, they just need to add fluid to the Box in front of the spare tire behind the turbo, right? Pump makes noise but doesn't sound like there's anything there, and crank just feels like there's air with no pressure behind it. When the roadside mechanic came to drain the four gallons out, we couldn't get the cab to latch because there was no pressure so we actually have a tow strap holding it in, any advice son getting it to close would be helpful. Two big guys jumping on both sides of the truck wasn't enough to make it latch haha.

Thanks!

Matt & Janey
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Camp Wood/LC, TX
Take lots of pictures as evidence of Travel America ruining your $20,000 engine. You will want to file a claim. Anyone's guess what happens when you overfill by 4 gallons, no doubt the crankshaft hits the oil, aerating it and causing bearing failure.
The cab hydraulic pump takes jack oil, fill the reservoir next to the spare tire. Pump no doubt needs to be rebuilt, they all do, there is a thread on here how to do it.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
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Mason, TN
Lots of friction and abnormal wear with over filling on the crank and bearings. Then it attacks the rings and seals with the extra crankcase pressure. Rear main usually goes first then a valve cover. It is always gonna be the PITA to replace gasket to go first. We all know how that goes.

Document Document Document.
 

98G

Former SSG
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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AZ/KS/MO/OK/NM/NE, varies by the day...
Best practice is to work on these yourself.

Failing that, you want someone who has experience specifically with these trucks to do the work.

Allowing regular big truck places to work on them results in badness like this. They don't really know any more about them than you do, and they don't have your incentive to learn.

Then when they screw it up, they tend to take the position that "it's just scrap truck anyway" , and try to get out of taking responsibility.

Running 4 gallons overfilled means you were lubricating with aerated froth. The best outcome for you at this point is measurable failure of the engine - at least then you have a chance of them replacing it. Worst case for you is that your bearings are 95% toast and a seal failed. They'll replace the seal and call it good. Then in a few thousand miles you'll suffer catastrophic failure of the engine and be replacing it yourself out of pocket.
 

aleigh

Well-known member
1,040
52
48
Location
Phoenix, AZ & Seattle, WA
This all sounds pretty weird. I've done several multi thousand mile trips in my LMTV and it barely puts a dent in the tires. They do get pretty warm, you have to keep up with the pressures, bit tires that big, they just flex flex flex and that goes somewhere (heat).

You might PM DiverDarrell. He's out on the penninsula and last I heard, had a stack of tires. I live in AZ but I've got a parts cache in Seattle but I only have one tire up there. If you make it that far sounds like you are home though... In which case getting tires freighted in isn't that big a deal.
 

snowtrac nome

Well-known member
1,674
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Location
western alaska
Thanks for the help everyone!
Looks like the tread is going to be able to get us home.. That's not the issue now...
We are stuck in Spokane. Travel America in Missoula overfill are oil on the oil change by 4 gallons and didn't check dipstick after filling it. By about 20 miles down the road it was obvious something is wrong. Pulled over to find oil running all down the underside. Their field tech met us on the side of the road and found the problem, drained 4 gallons, and said we were good to go. As we started to drive the oil pressure was pretty high and there was a little noise that I could notice, I was going to take it back to Missoula but after calling the mechanic told me there was no need and it was fine. When we made it to the Travel America in Spokane, the oil was no longer correct it was about half a gallon low and was leaking out of the blow by. There was also a high-pitched ticking or chirping that I was noticing right about when we hit Washington State border. We spent the night in Spokane since they don't have an ASE Certified mechanic at night, and he supposed to look the engine over today. I'm hoping I just blew a seal, but the noise makes me think it could also be something worse, like a seal got pushed further in or something. Thoughts? If anyone has a lot of experience with the 3116 motor or if anyone has done something stupid like this before, or even if you know what would obviously fail if something like this happens, I would love to be able to point the mechanic in the right direction.

Also, these guys don't know much about the hydraulic system, that's one thing that doesn't look so awesome on my truck. Pump and hand crank isn't enough to raise the cab. I'm pretty sure it's low on fluid, they just need to add fluid to the Box in front of the spare tire behind the turbo, right? Pump makes noise but doesn't sound like there's anything there, and crank just feels like there's air with no pressure behind it. When the roadside mechanic came to drain the four gallons out, we couldn't get the cab to latch because there was no pressure so we actually have a tow strap holding it in, any advice son getting it to close would be helpful. Two big guys jumping on both sides of the truck wasn't enough to make it latch haha.

Thanks!

Matt & Janey
I'm a 30 year hd diesel mechanic with both military and commercial experience, when I read stuff like this it makes me feel so good when some one shows me a piece of paper than says look at this I smarter than you. First over fill oil by 5 gallons stupid, secondly another tech drains out 4 gallons, and doesn't check for fuel dilution, and 3rd sends you on your way saying every thing is good WTF, the guy has a crystal ball, or he doesn't know about what happens to the oil when the crank and rods start rotating it the oil OMG, Must not be a question asked on his fancy test. I'm not knocking the ASE credentials I likely would have them too if it didn't have to spend so much money to fly to a city to get them, But it takes time more than a test for someone to be a master mechanic these big outfits need to learn this and stop hiding behind certificate's. Sorry about the rant but it seems the big outfits that want your business so much don't have a compensation package in place to attract senior mechanics that really know what they are doing.
 

tennmogger

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Greenback, TN
Aren't you guys being a little dramatic about imminent catastrophic failure? Sure there will be lots of oil splashing around in the crank case, and pouring out the vent, and smoking, and mess, but burning bearings? Seals, maybe, but the PCV system is pretty much wide open to releasing pressure so crankcase pressure should not have built to disastrous pressure???

The clatter and squeal he is hearing after a long drive could easily be many other things, and IMHO probably is. After a long drive at highway speeds it's not unheard of to need half a gallon of make-up oil. Also, the FMTVs are really hard to get consistent oil level readings on the dip stick. Just a few degrees of slope in any direction can make half a gallon difference.

It really does not surprise me that the mechanic did not think it was necessary for you to return. Probably he expected no harm done, and neither would I.

Open for comments...

Bob
 
Last edited:

aleigh

Well-known member
1,040
52
48
Location
Phoenix, AZ & Seattle, WA
Thanks for the help everyone!
Looks like the tread is going to be able to get us home.. That's not the issue now...
We are stuck in Spokane. Travel America in Missoula overfill are oil on the oil change by 4 gallons and didn't check dipstick after filling it. By about 20 miles down the road it was obvious something is wrong. Pulled over to find oil running all down the underside. Their field tech met us on the side of the road and found the problem, drained 4 gallons, and said we were good to go. As we started to drive the oil pressure was pretty high and there was a little noise that I could notice, I was going to take it back to Missoula but after calling the mechanic told me there was no need and it was fine. When we made it to the Travel America in Spokane, the oil was no longer correct it was about half a gallon low and was leaking out of the blow by. There was also a high-pitched ticking or chirping that I was noticing right about when we hit Washington State border. We spent the night in Spokane since they don't have an ASE Certified mechanic at night, and he supposed to look the engine over today. I'm hoping I just blew a seal, but the noise makes me think it could also be something worse, like a seal got pushed further in or something. Thoughts? If anyone has a lot of experience with the 3116 motor or if anyone has done something stupid like this before, or even if you know what would obviously fail if something like this happens, I would love to be able to point the mechanic in the right direction.

Also, these guys don't know much about the hydraulic system, that's one thing that doesn't look so awesome on my truck. Pump and hand crank isn't enough to raise the cab. I'm pretty sure it's low on fluid, they just need to add fluid to the Box in front of the spare tire behind the turbo, right? Pump makes noise but doesn't sound like there's anything there, and crank just feels like there's air with no pressure behind it. When the roadside mechanic came to drain the four gallons out, we couldn't get the cab to latch because there was no pressure so we actually have a tow strap holding it in, any advice son getting it to close would be helpful. Two big guys jumping on both sides of the truck wasn't enough to make it latch haha.

Thanks!

Matt & Janey
If you overfill, it will spray oil all over itself on the starboard side. It makes a mess but it is otherwise fine to drive. Just make sure you are keeping up with the oil level and that it is ok (that the only problem was the overfill). The oil dipstick is on the port side, towards the rear of the engine. Since you cannot lift your cab, you can still get at it by lifting the mudflap thing that covers the engine. You have to kind of get your hand in there and do it half blind but you'll soon develop the knack for doing it, since it beats lifting the cab every day of the week. When you go to put the dipstick back in it can be kind of tricky, you have to get just the right angle or it won't go down the tube, it gets hung up.

Yes, your symptoms are consistent with the fluid being low in the hydro system, but there may be other problems. In an emergency you can fill it with any kind of oil - engine oil, atf, whatever is around. But you should bleed and refill the system with a proper fluid after the fact. Yes, it just goes in the reservoir up by the tire. It has a dipstick to read the volume and the system is self bleeding (air pumps back into the reservoir). If the system is very low you may have to fill it a couple of times. Fill, pump, fill, pump.

The cab being unlatched is super dangerous as during hard braking the cab can flip up. ugh. shiver. The cab falls via gravity and should latch even if the hydro system is empty (the hydro opens the latch, it is normally closed like a fence gate). If the cab is seated in the latch there should be a telltale on it if it is unlocked - like a little cylinder comes out and it's kind of red. I am not sure all the trucks have this though. You may notice that you have a cab unlocked light on the dash but I don't think this actually works on at-least A0 trucks - it doesn't on mine and the latch has no wiring so I don't know how it would.
 

MJT

New member
22
0
0
Location
SoCal / Seattle
Thanks for your help everyone! That was quite an experience!
We made it home safe! The person at the shop in MS who told me I wouldn't have enough tread didnt know what they were talking about.. I still have some tread.. although, I definitely need to find a new set of tires, so anyone in the Seattle area that has a set for sale or can point me in the right direction would be helpful now that I'm home.

As far as the engine goes, they got oil to the right level and had me drive it for a couple hours around Spokane with a cup underneath the blow by to see if any more oil came out. I lost no oil. They sure be I was fine to drive home and said if I had any problems that they would take care of me. I called CAT to see if there's anything they could do to look over the motor and they said that it wouldn't hurt it to overfill it by that much, or that even running it at half gallon low for the 250 miles after he drained too much wouldn't hurt it either. So I guess everything is fine??
Oil pressure was always between 58 and 60 PSI consistently before the oil change. Now, at idle it's it's about 45 PSI and changes with acceleration, but does remain steady if I hold RPM steady come on the high end it's about 72 psi now. Is that normal? I couldn't find any PSI data on the motor. I thought maybe when it was reading 60 PSI before it had a bad sensor and the tech might have clean something when he changed all the filters and oil change. I know new oil also runs at higher pressure, so I'm thinking that these pressures are normal, but with the scare of blowing a seal I'm wondering if it's supposed to just stay at a solid pressure all the time like it used to.

With regards to the mistake they made in Travel America Missoula, the tech that worked on it actually worked on lmtvs all the time in the military I guess he was active duty or Reserve or something.. BUT apparently the engines they use on theirs I'll take exactly 10 gallons, he was so confident in doing it all the time that he didn't check the dipstick or show me. He was however able to get the horn and turn signals working, washer fluid, and fuel filters. Just didn't check it the important part.. the oil level!
 

aleigh

Well-known member
1,040
52
48
Location
Phoenix, AZ & Seattle, WA
As far as the engine goes, they got oil to the right level and had me drive it for a couple hours around Spokane with a cup underneath the blow by to see if any more oil came out. I lost no oil. They sure be I was fine to drive home and said if I had any problems that they would take care of me. I called CAT to see if there's anything they could do to look over the motor and they said that it wouldn't hurt it to overfill it by that much, or that even running it at half gallon low for the 250 miles after he drained too much wouldn't hurt it either. So I guess everything is fine??
Oil pressure was always between 58 and 60 PSI consistently before the oil change. Now, at idle it's it's about 45 PSI and changes with acceleration, but does remain steady if I hold RPM steady come on the high end it's about 72 psi now. Is that normal? I couldn't find any PSI data on the motor. I thought maybe when it was reading 60 PSI before it had a bad sensor and the tech might have clean something when he changed all the filters and oil change. I know new oil also runs at higher pressure, so I'm thinking that these pressures are normal, but with the scare of blowing a seal I'm wondering if it's supposed to just stay at a solid pressure all the time like it used to.

With regards to the mistake they made in Travel America Missoula, the tech that worked on it actually worked on lmtvs all the time in the military I guess he was active duty or Reserve or something.. BUT apparently the engines they use on theirs I'll take exactly 10 gallons, he was so confident in doing it all the time that he didn't check the dipstick or show me. He was however able to get the horn and turn signals working, washer fluid, and fuel filters. Just didn't check it the important part.. the oil level!
Min 15PSI at idle and max 88psi at full RPM. Anything within that is fine. And yes, everything is fine... Just like we told you :)
 
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