Turbo to Exhaust Manifold Nuts + Bolts

[dbesade]

All-

I'm hoping someone can give me the proper size for the 4 x Nuts and the 2 x Bolts. I snapped all mine when taking the turbo off and the NSN/Part Number is not quite helpful. Anyone out there have the sizes so I can grab them from the store?

-Dave

 

[porkysplace]

All-

I'm hoping someone can give me the proper size for the 4 x Nuts and the 2 x Bolts. I snapped all mine when taking the turbo off and the NSN/Part Number is not quite helpful. Anyone out there have the sizes so I can grab them from the store?

-Dave

Did you put the NSN/Part Number into http://www.parttarget.com/
That should show the sizes.

 

[dbesade]

I did! I'm not sure I see the size of the Hex Nut... I do see the TPI (-16), but not the actual size of the nut. Admittedly, I may be misunderstanding the output.


-Dave

 

[dbesade]

I guess I posted too soon... checking here:
http://www.goetzprinting.com/images/conversion_table.pdf

.375" = 3/8's which would mean the nuts are 3/8's -16... Thank you!

-Dave

 

[porkysplace]

It looks like 3/8-16
here is a conversion chart .
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/inches-decimal-equivalents-d_471.html

 

[41cl8m5]

Two of the fasteners are bolts with nuts and lockwashers. The other two are studs that are threaded into the manifold and use the same nuts and lockwashers. If you snapped the nuts off of the studs be very careful in removing bad studs, the cast metal of the manifold does not handle force well at all, I did everything I could think of and what others said to try to do to get the studs out with no joy. Heat, wax, all kinds of penitrating fluids, drilling the center of the studs to relieve pressure. In the end I thought the one stud was starting to move but the manifold gave way and the "ear" busted off. Off to find a new manifold ( got one, but it got more fun from there) anyway, I have been turning wrenches for 40+ years now and this is one of the things I will never forget, due to all the hassle involved with it.

 

[dbesade]

Two of the fasteners are bolts with nuts and lockwashers. The other two are studs that are threaded into the manifold and use the same nuts and lockwashers. If you snapped the nuts off of the studs be very careful in removing bad studs, the cast metal of the manifold does not handle force well at all, I did everything I could think of and what others said to try to do to get the studs out with no joy. Heat, wax, all kinds of penitrating fluids, drilling the center of the studs to relieve pressure. In the end I thought the one stud was starting to move but the manifold gave way and the "ear" busted off. Off to find a new manifold ( got one, but it got more fun from there) anyway, I have been turning wrenches for 40+ years now and this is one of the things I will never forget, due to all the hassle involved with it.

Much appreciate the words of wisdom you speak! In the end, I have bought a new "center" section for the exhaust manifold and will just replace it. I've taken everything off the passenger side of the engine, just waiting on the new parts. I actually intend to begin to put things back together tomorrow.



-Dave

 

[cattlerepairman]

I recommend to use high temp anti seize on the stud threads and also to use copper nuts instead of steel to avoid bouts of anger and hatred towards inanimate objects when you have to remove the turbo at some point down the road.

 

[41cl8m5]

The copper nuts is an idea I did not think of and yes anti seize on all hardware is a very good idea.
In your pictures that is what I ended up doing also. The two coolant manifolds that mount to the heads on my truck had a small leak, found that both were not flat when put on a flat surface, the parts are aluminum cast and the gaskets used are thick enough in the beginning with the hardware torqued but after time the gasket will lose some of its function because of heat/cold cycling of the engine. I surfaced the parts that mated with the head so all three ports would sit flat, the gap before was more than .030" on both could have been as high as .040" that is a lot of pressure to hold a part against a gasket. Also be careful some folks out there are selling hose kits and the one for the coolant manifolds to the intake manifold is smaller than the hoses used on the pump.

 

[rustystud]

I recommend to use high temp anti seize on the stud threads and also to use copper nuts instead of steel to avoid bouts of anger and hatred towards inanimate objects when you have to remove the turbo at some point down the road.

I use "anti-seize" also, but I install "Stainless Steel" nuts. They are stronger then copper or bronze and won't rust.