LMTV Shipping

[tgh567]

I am looking at a LMTV at Bragg, seem to be very reasonable there, says, "[FONT=Roboto, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The engine could not be started. The dash fuses and breakers are missing." I know once I get it home I can get fuses and breakers and hopefully clean motor some and get it running, my biggest problem is getting it home. I am 99 miles away from bragg so not far, but don't have a truck or trailer big enough to pull it, how would I get a shipper to get it if it can't be driven onto trailer? [/FONT]

 

[Crapgame]

Some shippers have a winch assy on their trailers, can pull it right on.

 

[tgh567]

Any idea what I'd be looking at for that too be shipped?

 

[Crapgame]

I got my M1081 priced from Western PA to FL Panhandle for $1400 from fellow on uShip, but my rig is drivable. Dunno what to tell ya, maybe a local will help you with a tow bar? You'd have to pull your driveshaft though. There's a $230 tool that does it quick at least.

 

[DiverDarrell]

Contact a local equipment mover with a low boy trailer. They will have all the knowledge to get a not running truck onto a trailer and deliver it. May cost some money, but always better to be safe than sorry.

 

[porkysplace]

Contact simp5782 He may be able to help you.

 

[Floridianson]

I got my M1081 priced from Western PA to FL Panhandle for $1400 from fellow on uShip, but my rig is drivable. Dunno what to tell ya, maybe a local will help you with a tow bar? You'd have to pull your driveshaft though. There's a $230 tool that does it quick at least.

My .02 it's not a good idea to flat tow FMTV with geared hubs of a truck that has not had the hubs serviced/ check. Even if the rear axles have been removed and front drive line is removed.

 

[simp5782]

Too short of a haul for me unless i am in the area. 2.15 to 2.30 for a 1078 and 2.45 to 2.75 for a 1083 per mile.

Flat towing wont be good.

Check your local equipment company with a lull trailer about hauling. They have winches on them.

Or the wrecker co there is Soles on dunn rd

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[tgh567]

Would I just rent the trailer and truck separately maybe a full ton could do it, not far. If you happened to be in area it would be a huge help!

 

[wheelspinner]

Soles sucks. They wanted 500 for a prepped to tow LMTV just to go off base when my pickup couldn't get on base. We worked out another way. No way on earth was I giving them $500 for 30 mins work.

 

[98G]

I am looking at a LMTV at Bragg, seem to be very reasonable there, says, "The engine could not be started. The dash fuses and breakers are missing." I know once I get it home I can get fuses and breakers and hopefully clean motor some and get it running, my biggest problem is getting it home. I am 99 miles away from bragg so not far, but don't have a truck or trailer big enough to pull it, how would I get a shipper to get it if it can't be driven onto trailer?

Missing dash fuses and breakers are the result, not the cause. They were likely removed because something bad is happening. The underlying badness remains, and will re-manifest itself when you replace the breakers and fuses. (I suggest having a fire extinguisher present, as well as a way to rapidly disconnect the batteries)

Don't complain when you buy a truck described as "the truck cannot be started" and sure enough, even when you fix what's obvious, the truck still cannot be started.

Anything not seen to run should be presumed incapable of running, period.

Or, hey, it's your money. By all means bid on it as if all it needs is some fuses and breakers....

 

[wheelspinner]

Missing dash fuses and breakers are the result, not the cause. They were likely removed because something bad is happening. The underlying badness remains, and will re-manifest itself when you replace the breakers and fuses. (I suggest having a fire extinguisher present, as well as a way to rapidly disconnect the batteries)Don't complain when you buy a truck described as "the truck cannot be started" and sure enough, even when you fix what's obvious, the truck still cannot be started.

Anything not seen to run should be presumed incapable of running, period.

Or, hey, it's your money. By all means bid on it as if all it needs is some fuses and breakers....

I bought mine in the exact same condition, BUT I bought it CHEAP. Once the fuses and relays were replaced it did start, but ran not well. The miss was diagnosed to a cracked injector, which is why the truck was cannibalized. Just be prepared. And I only bid non-runners as parts trucks.

 

[98G]

.... BUT I bought it CHEAP. Just be prepared. And I only bid non-runners as parts trucks.

This was the point i was trying to make...

 

[tgh567]

I understand the point your trying to make, what would you consider Cheap? <4K? Just want to know what sort of price you would say is cheap and I won’t be completely underwater on. Thanks for everyone here’s help!

 

[scottmandu]

Try 301 Truck stop. They charged me $475 to pickup from bragg, store for a few days and then used two wreckers to lift the truck onto a flatbed.

 

[tgh567]

Total cost then was upwards of 1000 bucks? I am just trying to figure out cheapest way as it’s only 100 miles..

 

[simp5782]

Total cost then was upwards of 1000 bucks? I am just trying to figure out cheapest way as it’s only 100 miles..

Cheapest way is not always the best way

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[tgh567]

I understand that, but really easiest is what I meant.

 

[simp5782]

Anything under 200 miles is gonna get $3.75 or more a mile. To make it even worth the drivers time. Especially with it being a winch on deal. And having to deal with base crap unless its on Dunn road.

I did one today. Fayetteville to Virginia beach 250 miles was 500. Because it wasnt on base and they loaded it so $2 a mile.

Call an equipment rental company and ask their lull rate per hour to go get it and bring it back. Will be the cheapest and smartest decision.

Flat tow it and the s hits the fan dont call me to come load it up. I dont rescue rookie towbar mistakes.

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[98G]

I understand the point your trying to make, what would you consider Cheap? <4K? Just want to know what sort of price you would say is cheap and I won’t be completely underwater on. Thanks for everyone here’s help!

You know how to search the GP site and see the sold prices on similar trucks?

And you know that a $4000 bid is more like $5000 at invoice?

The nonrunners are a gamble. If you get it running easily, you can end up way ahead of the game. But if it needs a new motor/transmission/etc you can end up in the hole really fast.

Over large sample sizes, you do better by buying dead ones. Especially if you have the capability to move them yourself. If the goal is to get one truck that's a keeper for you, buying a dead one is a huge risk. It may be well and truly dead. I'd only advocate it if you're OK with a parts truck.

Paying commercial rates for transport can eat away at any margin to be had by buying a nonrunner, although in your case at least it's relatively close by.

I haven't looked at the specific truck, and can't stick a value on it.