Need 100 amp alternator voltage regulator

[Duckworthe]

I had my voltage regulator go out on my Niehoff alternator. I have the unit in the shop but can't test the Alt without the regulator. Does anyone have one they will sell me? I'm unable to move my truck until I get this replaced. Pic attached. Thank you and let me know as soon as possible if anyone can help me out of this bind I'm in. I would be also interested in a new or used 100 amp alt/regulator combo. I don't need the 250amp upgrade unit though. Just need to get the truck back running to finish my trip. Thank you all. You can call me as that is better, I don't have WIFI where I am located.
Eric 619-952-4337

 

[NDT]

Those N3030 units are hard to find. The N3207 units with the led's can be found but they won't plug in. If you are stuck far from home, plan b could be a cheapo gas generator with a battery charger.

 

[Suprman]

I can look tomorrow see if I have one kickin around. Most alt shops don't understand the mil alternators and don't put 24v to the regulator excite terminal when testing it.

 

[coachgeo]

I can look tomorrow see if I have one kickin around. Most alt shops don't understand the mil alternators and don't put 24v to the regulator excite terminal when testing it.

Is excite terminal clearly marked? If so with What?

 

[Suprman]

2 terminals on regulator. 24v excite/regulation and ac which is an ac output and should not be used on a first gen truck. Unless you are driving a tach with it. But that's a separate discussion.

 

[coachgeo]

2 terminals on regulator. 24v excite/regulation and ac which is an ac output and should not be used on a first gen truck. Unless you are driving a tach with it. But that's a separate discussion.

So if it is out of truck (or has tach or something on other lug when installed)... the 24v excite/regulation is the one furthest from the cannon plug or one Next to it?

 

[Suprman]

Front terminal needs 24v applied to start the alternator making power. Otherwise it will just spin with no power generated.

 

[Duckworthe]

2 terminals on regulator. 24v excite/regulation and ac which is an ac output and should not be used on a first gen truck. Unless you are driving a tach with it. But that's a separate discussion.

Superman,
I have a question for you. My alt had two connections made to the reg before I took it off. However the rear ring terminal was a very poor connection, please see picture.. I repaired the connection and put it back into place. My truck doesn't have a tach and is your basic 1078 truck. Alt worked fine prior. after a few miles the regulator overheated. Is it because of that rear wire? Should I not reconnect it? I don't know where that wire goes into the truck, maybe just behind the dash to an unused plug for installing a tach? Wonder if this connection made my issue!
Sorry it is upside down!

 

[Suprman]

The yellow connection , marked as AC, is actually an AC voltage output off the alternator. If the wire connected to it is rubbing metal or shorted somewhere I could see it causing problems. You can use this output to drive a tach. The factory tach, if installed, is not driven off this terminal though. I advise everyone to disconnect and tape up the wire going to the AC terminal and not to use it. Unless you are running an aftermarket tach. And then you should run a new wire to it not use the factory wiring.

 

[mechanicjim]

The yellow connection , marked as AC, is actually an AC voltage output off the alternator. If the wire connected to it is rubbing metal or shorted somewhere I could see it causing problems. You can use this output to drive a tach. The factory tach, if installed, is not driven off this terminal though. I advise everyone to disconnect and tape up the wire going to the AC terminal and not to use it. Unless you are running an aftermarket tach. And then you should run a new wire to it not use the factory wiring.

Suprman on a N3030 the rear terminal is not AC!!!!! its is F- (Field Sense) below is a link for the Trouble shooting guide for the Early 100 Amp(N1506) that used the N3030 the Later N1509/N1511 and N3207 switched that terminal over to AC later on so yes you are correct to leave it disconnected,

Duckworthe you can use the guide to pin to pin test to see if field coil/ Diodes are good and you can do this without being hooked up to truck.

http://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG0018A_uid12172009221392.pdf

 

[Suprman]

Interesting. I wonder if the military made the same mistake. Most of the trucks I have had came with the newer model alts.

 

[Duckworthe]

Thank you very much!