Negative bolt on starter snapped

[orgnal]

Also included color arrows, the red is the original hole that the tap broke in, The yellow area was spot were there was already a small hole and just drilled it tad bit wider to then use a 1/4 tap and was able to create small bit of threads to then connect the two original wires, the tiny one marked by the green arrow, and the large one with the blue arrow. I also added the grounding kit wire which is pointed to with the purple arrow. Also, as I mentioned cleaned it to bare metal before putting this bolt in. Also, this little hole was already there and basically just threaded it so don't believe I penetrated the housing. Also, like i metioned prior to all this the vehicle started just fine, and all I did was undo these cable to then add this new grounding kit wire which has then lead to vehicle not starting. Also, I just looked under the car and that large grounding cable that is pointed to with the blue arrow go to the frame. I just don't understand how it started just fine prior to this and now it won't start. All I did was install the battery cutoff switch and the Kascar 535-A1 Ground Kit, 4 Wire, A, B, C, D. Is there something else from this install that could be effecting it from starting? I just assumed it was this bolt that broke that was causing it not to start, also is there way can check and make sure the housing is correctly grounding from this new spot I am using? Just really dont know what is causing the problem and appreciate any help you can provide.

Thank You

Can you check and make sure power is getting to the starter when you turn the engine start switch?

McReddy

 

[cclary25]

Sorry dont know the exact terminology but it was basically making cranking noises but wasnt actually fully starting. So was thinking it was related to that bolt that broke on the starter and had to rig another one. However, I went ahead and had wife spray the ether into the intake thing right in front of the windshield as I was turning the switch to start it and it finally started up. So wouldn't this then mean that it must just be the glow plugs that need to be changed out. The previous owner said he changed the pcb but didn't get around to changing the glow plugs but went ahead and gave me the new glow plugs. So will changing these out be the first step in seeing it that why it struggles to start and have to spray the ether. Really want to get this figured out asap since absolutely hate spraying the ether to get it to start since I know it's destroying the engine each time. I'm just glad it finally fully started and now know there is nothing wrong with the starter and got that issue fixed, or at least I would believe that would be the case.

 

[orgnal]

Sorry dont know the exact terminology but it was basically making cranking noises but wasnt actually fully starting. So was thinking it was related to that bolt that broke on the starter and had to rig another one. However, I went ahead and had wife spray the ether into the intake thing right in front of the windshield as I was turning the switch to start it and it finally started up. So wouldn't this then mean that it must just be the glow plugs that need to be changed out. The previous owner said he changed the pcb but didn't get around to changing the glow plugs but went ahead and gave me the new glow plugs. So will changing these out be the first step in seeing it that why it struggles to start and have to spray the ether. Really want to get this figured out asap since absolutely hate spraying the ether to get it to start since I know it's destroying the engine each time. I'm just glad it finally fully started and now know there is nothing wrong with the starter and got that issue fixed, or at least I would believe that would be the case.

Agree with your assessment. Go ahead and replace the glow plugs.

McReddy

 

[FFesco]

Sorry dont know the exact terminology but it was basically making cranking noises but wasnt actually fully starting. So was thinking it was related to that bolt that broke on the starter and had to rig another one. However, I went ahead and had wife spray the ether into the intake thing right in front of the windshield as I was turning the switch to start it and it finally started up. So wouldn't this then mean that it must just be the glow plugs that need to be changed out. The previous owner said he changed the pcb but didn't get around to changing the glow plugs but went ahead and gave me the new glow plugs. So will changing these out be the first step in seeing it that why it struggles to start and have to spray the ether. Really want to get this figured out asap since absolutely hate spraying the ether to get it to start since I know it's destroying the engine each time. I'm just glad it finally fully started and now know there is nothing wrong with the starter and got that issue fixed, or at least I would believe that would be the case.

Definitely change the glow plugs regardless, Test the OHMS with a multimeter (should read between 1.5-2.5 on each glowplug).

Now, as for the starter, could be the gears inside the starter itself. Basically when you crank the engine (this could be seen via the flywheel inspection cover), the starter will engage the flywheel. The starter “teeth” could be engaging the flywheel but then the spindle inside the “teeth” may continue to spin freely while the “teeth” have stopped. This can be caused by the grease thickening up inside the starter.
Or you might also need a new mechanical pump, which is located directly behind the starter, $30 fix.

Hope this helps you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FFesco]

Definitely change the glow plugs regardless, Test the OHMS with a multimeter (should read between 1.5-2.5 on each glowplug).

Now, as for the starter, could be the gears inside the starter itself. Basically when you crank the engine (this could be seen via the flywheel inspection cover), the starter will engage the flywheel. The starter “teeth” could be engaging the flywheel but then the spindle inside the “teeth” may continue to spin freely while the “teeth” have stopped. This can be caused by the grease thickening up inside the starter.
Or you might also need a new mechanical pump, which is located directly behind the starter, $30 fix.

Hope this helps you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This shows that bar or spindle inside the starter. Every time you crank the engine, this will come out about an inch and engage the flywheel.

That spindle might not be able to handle the load.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gimpyrobb]

Definitely change the glow plugs regardless, Test the OHMS with a multimeter (should read between 1.5-2.5 on each glowplug).

Now, as for the starter, could be the gears inside the starter itself. Basically when you crank the engine (this could be seen via the flywheel inspection cover), the starter will engage the flywheel. The starter “teeth” could be engaging the flywheel but then the spindle inside the “teeth” may continue to spin freely while the “teeth” have stopped. This can be caused by the grease thickening up inside the starter.
Or you might also need a new mechanical pump, which is located directly behind the starter, $30 fix.

Hope this helps you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What does the pump do?

 

[FFesco]

What does the pump do?

I believe it’s a low pressure mechanical pump. I used something similar to the Carter 73105 that I picked up at my local parts store. It feeds fuel to the injector pump.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk