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Question: Best batteries to buy for Humvee (yes I did a search before posting this)..

JoeJrTheBarber

JoeJrTheBarber

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Question:

My new to me 1988 M998 is currently under the knife at my buddies shop and I am going over the thing front to back and replacing / upgrading everything I can to insure years of trouble free / not having to be on the side of the road humming. So, when it comes to batteries what is the best bet for these trucks (yes I searched and yes I read thru all of them) so save your yelling. seems like allot of guys go the Optima Yellow or Red top route. I have had great luck with Optima brand batteries in the past and was going to go that route for the Humvee but I wanted to ask the on here if their was a better alternative / what people have seen work with their own trucks / etc..

Thanks in advance..
 
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simp5782

simp5782

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JoeJrTheBarber said:
Question:

My new to me 1988 M998 is currently under the knife at my buddies shop and I am going over the thing front to back and replacing / upgrading everything I can to insure years of trouble free / not having to be on the side of the road humming. So, when it comes to batteries what is the best bet for these trucks ? I have seen many posts where the truck has Optima yellow top batteries. I have had great luck with Optima brand batteries in the past and was going to go that route for the Humvee but I wanted to ask the experts here if their was a better alternative / what people have seen with their own trucks / etc..

Thanks in advance..
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All batteries are made by 3 different companies. All about the same. There is a thread on here about that. You aren't into the larger batterys so you dont have an issue with longevity issues. Get a 6TL to be a stock replacement or group 24 or along those lines. Interstate. Duracell. Whatever works. Put a maintainer on the system if you don't drive it much and be done with it.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=88254

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 
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doghead

doghead

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So. you only want expert opinions to reply, as opposed to novice opinions that you found when you searched?

Nothing new has been developed in the battery world in the last week or so since the last "which battery is best" thread was started.

If you like optima's, use them.
 
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papakb

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My experience with 6TL batteries from 3 different sources has been worse than miserable. Supposedly they have extra space beneath the plate so if there's any flaking they won't short out. HA! Didn't help any of the 3 sets from failing within less than 30 months. And because these are "specialty" batteries they have a "specialty" warranty too. Which is usually 12 months. So this last go round I looked at alternatives and came up with a set of Duracell 24F batteries. Roughly the same CCA as the 6TL but smaller in size and they came with an excellant warranty. Be aware that there are a couple versions of the 24Fs, some with flat tops and some with removable covers. I bought the flat top batteries and they worked out perfectly using the original hold down bracket.

The 24Fs are available from everyone and the prices can vary tremendously so shop around. I found of COSTCO has them for an excellent price after I bought mine but for some reason they don't have them classified as a 24F but as a "Type XX" battery so be aware of that.
 
Bulldogger

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jake-cutter said:
I have had good luck with the NAPA 6TL battery and it comes with a 30 month warranty. Price is around $175 if you have a coupon or wait for a special. I have seen them a little lower.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP7256
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When I was searching to replace my dead 6TL's I didn't see NAPA. I would have bought them, as I have a good relationship with them. Wish I had known.

On to other responses:
I use group 31 like many, I cram one in sideways, and one in longways and so they wedge each other into the compartment that way, shaped like a T. I haven't had any trouble, except of course it's good to check the water level now and again since the stock 60A alternator and charge circuit isn't that intelligent and can push them hard even if they're fully charged so they lose a bit of water.

I have read that 6TL are spec'd to be able to be submerged, and note that the 30" fording depth puts water at Buttock level, give or take, which means wet batteries. I would not want to go fording in water I wasn't absolutely sure of, and haven't, if using batteries not rated as submersible. I am always looking out for some better batteries, since my G31 were more of a "good enough" purchase and a decent price at the time, so I can be a little more comfortable when going swimming.


Either way, welcome to the fun! When you get it back, ride the wheels off of it and take pictures, it didn't happen if there's no pictures!

Bulldogger
 
Crazyguyla

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You could always lookup what on H1 uses, same vehicle but rides tons better. If I remember correctly, the stock batteries for an H1 aren't huge like two 6tls since the batteries are located under the hood.
 
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fireboat110

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I used to do R&D and per Pelican Products found out the smart chargers are the only way to go. They keep the batteries at full voltage and monitor. When the voltage drops they kick them back up to full voltage and monitor them again. By monitoring they turn off and on. I have a dual battery old car and also a dual battery emergency LED lighting system. I have wired the dual battery systems on one charger.

What kills a battery is the large voltage drops and trying to get them to come up again. That is why the marine industries use deep cycle batteries. This is why the smart chargers don't let the voltage drop too much and prolong battery life. Low voltage kills batteries and electronics.

The little 750 ml battery buddy chargers just can't keep up with full size batteries especially in the cold weather.

I have used the Schumacher SE-1-12S-CA Fully Automatic Onboard Battery Charger - 1.5 Amps on Amazon for $29.50. They work well and can keep a charge during a freeze. I like the fact the light goes red during a charge and then switches to an occillating green to show it is maintaining.

If your batteries are low it can take 3-4 day to switch from red to the green at a 1.5 amp charge rate. I recomend that if your truck sets and they are low, give them a full charge with a good charger first.

The smart chargers are the only way to go. Pelican Products found in their rechargeable flashlights. That when they went from flashlights with trickle chargers the batteries would last about a year. Pelican switched to smart chargers and there rechargeable flashlight batteries lasted well over 5-6 years.

I switched to a smart charger on an old dual battery Porsche that sits all year, after year, after year and get 8-10 years out of a set of batteries. The reason is because when the batteries sit on a charger not moving, the plates tend not to loose the covering. When you drive a vehicle the vibration shakes off the material off the plates. When the bottom of the cells fill up with the material that falls off the plates to the bottom of the battery cell. The plates will eventually touch the material at the bottom off the cell off the plate and the battery cell will weaken or die. This is why when you get a higher CCA battery than needed the battery usually lets you know it is failing before it goes bad. Basically you get a warning before you get stuck.

Also when I get a batteries I go for the highest cranking amps. That way when they get weak, they still work.

Additionally when you use smart chargers you still should check the water level in the battery once a year at a minimum. Always add distilled water (no exceptions)

For what it is worth
 
doghead

doghead

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Experts only, please.
 
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