Idle Vibration Normal?

[LastFbody]

Ever driven an old truck with a carburated gas v8? Vibration should be a twinge worse than that with the 6.2 diesel if everythings right.

Has that same irregular motor pulse that you can feel through the whole truck a little every few seconds. Mine vibrates the spring in the passenger seat at idle half the time. Best I can put the feeling into words.

 

[Tinstar]

Thanks! Yeah I was just looking for a bolt that size to install it with my HB tools. Also need to verify pulley is good. Hopefully Dorman HB is ok to use. Ordered the seal 2 days ago, need to go get it.
Still have a slight vibration in drive at a stop, not as bad as before. Need to look at trans mounts too.

ACDELCO still makes the Harmonic Balancer for the 6.2L.

Mine arrived and was identical to original and made in USA.

 

[Zeus51]

Do the timing cover front seal while you are at it. Also, get the balancer puller kit with the 16x 1.5mm thread main shaft. Then you can use it as a balancer installer too.

Barrman, Do you have a specific puller that you recommend?

 

[Barrman]

I have my puller in my hands but can't find a number or name on it. I know I bought it at O'Reilly's. Here is a thread with other brands and numbers:

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...tool&highlight=harmonic+balancer+installation

 

[rodent]

Update: Replaced the HB and still have some good vibration while in drive and at a stop. In park or neutral, its a little better, not as bad as in drive. At a light its so annoying I have to shift to neutral for the majority of the noise to go away.

The HB was more work than I expected. My HB installer did not have the stock crank size threaded tip. Drove to 4 different auto parts stores and NONE of them had the correct M16x1.5 tip for their HB installer. All they had was M16x2.0 thread in their installers. Went to 2 hardware stores looking for a longer M16 crank bolt. Nope. Finally decided to try and weld to the stock M16 crank bolt to another like Fluidamper shows in their instructions. unfortunately, my 120v welder really sucks at the larger chunks of metal and the bolts ended up coming apart when I tried to install the HB. Could have used my arc welder but I was missing my welding rods. I finally just drilled a smaller 7/16 hole in the old crank bolt, tapped it, and used a the SBC tip of the HB install tool and it worked with no issue. Also, the crank pulley was filled with dirt on the inside where its a V shape groove. Got all the dirt out and cleaned it up.

So at this point I'm so close to taking it someone to see if they can figure out why this truck is still vibrating. Hopefully its not something internal to the engine. So far I tried new Napa motor mounts, new Dorman HB, I made sure nothing is hitting frame or body. I'm going to double check the flex plate has the weight on it next. The transmission mounts look good but I do have some poly mounts I can try to see if it helps. Maybe its my crank pulley but it doesn't look bent. At a loss.

 

[stonewalljac]

Unbalanced fuel delivery can cause vibration also. Such as injectors that don't deliver the same fuel amounts. and Injection pumps that do not deliver proper fuel amounts to the injectors. My M1009 was pretty rough at idle when I got it. I replaced the injectors and the HB and it is as smooth as a sewing machine now.

 

[rodent]

Unbalanced fuel delivery can cause vibration also. Such as injectors that don't deliver the same fuel amounts. and Injection pumps that do not deliver proper fuel amounts to the injectors. My M1009 was pretty rough at idle when I got it. I replaced the injectors and the HB and it is as smooth as a sewing machine now.

Thanks! I was just reading on that issue too. Possible injector or IP timing. Also read the gas tank can get close to the frame and vibrate badly so I will look at that as well.

 

[BradL84D30M1008]

Good thinking......I've noticed my vibration is sometimes more felt in the bed area than in the cab area......

Thanks! I was just reading on that issue too. Possible injector or IP timing. Also read the gas tank can get close to the frame and vibrate badly so I will look at that as well.

 

[cucvrus]

Uneven compression and a bad head gasket or cracked head can do the same thing. Just putting that out there. they are 30 + year old engines. History unknown.

 

[stonewalljac]

If you can see the engine shake, it is a good possibility that it is uneven injector opening pressure's.

 

[rodent]

Good thinking......I've noticed my vibration is sometimes more felt in the bed area than in the cab area......

You can hear the bed vibrate from outside sitting in traffic along with other things.

To be clear when I say vibration, its a harmonic vibration and EVERYTHING seems to rattling. Gets on your nerves after awhile.

Uneven compression and a bad head gasket or cracked head can do the same thing. Just putting that out there. they are 30 + year old engines. History unknown.

True. It has no symptoms of a bad head gasket or cracked head (yet). I may have to do a compression test soon.

 

[stonewalljac]

Unlike a gasoline engine that premixes it's fuel and air before delivery to the cylinder with a timed spark from a spark plug. The diesel relies on the injection pump to pressurize the fuel to the injector at an exact opening pressure to maintain the timing for the compression ignition. If the opening pressure's are uneven, then the timing is also from cylinder to cylinder. Which can cause vibration and broken crankshafts. If you have access to a 6.2 or 6.5 diesel timing light. put it on and observe the timing mark and see if it is jumping around while idling. another possible problem is a very loose timing chain On these.

 

[rodent]

Thats the other thing I need to add to my tool collection. 6.2 diesel timing light or adapter. Any ideas where to get one these days? Would prefer $80 and under.

 

[stonewalljac]

No not really. they are hard to come by. Keep an eye on Ebay. But that is the best way to see what is going on with the vibration. I'll bet yours is jumping around a lot. Mine was. Doubt you will find one that cheap. This is like mine.

 

[Drock]

Uneven compression and a bad head gasket or cracked head can do the same thing. Just putting that out there. they are 30 + year old engines. History unknown.

Agreed I was thinking the same thing. You should do a compression test, and pressure test on the coolant system. You may have a crack or blown gasket between two cylinders.

 

[Tinstar]

When I installed new Delphi injectors, the noise quieted down, especially at highway speed, and it also smoothed out the vibration a lot also.

Its a Diesel so it will always have vibration, but the new injectors made a huge difference.

 

[rodent]

Thanks to stonewalljac, I scored this timing light on ebay for $53. Need to start looking at new injectors. I may go with the marine but not sure yet.

 

[rsh4364]

Agreed I was thinking the same thing. You should do a compression test, and pressure test on the coolant system. You may have a crack or blown gasket between two cylinders.

I do a compression test every year on my 1009, it will let you know if you have any compression problems, bad rings,valves not seating, bad head gaskets, cracked head.ect.

 

[Barrman]

Just to get this on the record for future thread readers.

I used Performance Tool part number W151P. I bought it at O’Reilly’s. I was cleaning stuff up and found the card in my puller pile at home.

 

[rodent]

Thanks for the tool part number. My puller worked fine and most pullers will with the right long metric bolts which you can buy if needed.

Problem I had was the installer did not have the correct M16x1.5 thread for the crank. O'reilly, Advance, Pepboys, Autozone, Napa all had the same brand name installer tool (OEM) that did NOT have the correct thread size for the crank. Also Harbor Freight did not have the right thread size with their tool.

Tool looks similar to this:
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/xlarge/pro-66515_xl.jpg