FMTV Repairs and upgrades

[agazza2]

Thought I would start a post on my FMTV on some of the repairs and upgrades to keep track of things and provide insights to others that have FMTVs. I have had my M1078 for about two years now, and it seems like there is always something to rebuild to get it back to optimal running condition. Same repairs as most owners have already done on here. I plan on adding additional information under these topics as time permits.

Some failure items on FMTVs due to either sitting, or not being fully maintained.
1. Protection valve seals (above rear axle) - air leaks from dry rotted seals
2. Air protection valve by battery box - seal leaks
3. Service brake valve leaks - air leaks due to loose fittings
4. Front axle growl - bearing clearance adjustment
5. Hydraulic pump failure - hydraulic fluid coming out vent valve
6. Hydraulic Manifold failure - cab raises 6"10" then locks
7. Cracked timing cover - due to loose air pump bolts
8. Unusual tire wear
9. Door handle replacement - upgrade to A1 handles
10. Front driveshaft wear
11. Upgrades

I will start with the Hydraulic manifold as it has given me the worst issues. After I rebuilt the hydraulic pump due to hydraulic oil coming out of the vent, everything worked fine for two weeks. Then the cab would only raise about 6-10" and then lock up, and would not go any further. If I used the manual pump it would do the same thing, and at this point you could not even move the hand pump lever. If you slightly cracked the return line on the hydraulic cylinder for the cab it would lift just fine.

After replacing all the seals in the manifold, from Martin Fluid Power (MFP) it still did the same thing. So I finally decided to build a new system using a 2 spool hydraulic valve system. While waiting for a few parts for this system to come in, I was able to find a FMTV 5 ton manifold that was used from 2008 - 2013 (4130-01-527-8543). This one does not have the air lift valve for the cab lift. I installed this one, and will move the air cab lift switch inside the cab. Here are a few photos of the 2 spool system I tested in the garage today, and a photo of my new intended use of this system.

For those that have bad manifolds and do not want to pay the high price for a replacement manifold, the 2 spool is a great solution at an affordable price. You will need to purchase two air valves.The valve I will use for the air ride cab is also pictured.

 

[agazza2]

FMTV Upgrades

A few upgrades I have done to my FMTV is install A1 door handle retrofit kit from FMTV trucks out of Montana. This was well worth it, and it is nice to finally be able to lock the doors. The handles are excellent quality, and you do not have to worry about breaking them trying to open the door. I also added side view camera above the marker lights to see the crazy Phoenix drivers that want to pass you on the right as soon as you signal.

 

[agazza2]

I was trying to get rid of the growl that comes from the front of the FMTVs. We were able to complete the replacement of bearings and perform the clearance check on the drivers side of the FMTV last April. Still need to finish the passengers side.The drivers side had one bearing that did not look to good (excessive clearance). Here are a few photos of the working being done.

 

[1951M1078]

Looks great,Allen.

 

[Adventure Driven]

Looking good, I just got the door handles installed here in MT, they are awesome

Seth

 

[scottmandu]

Does anyone know how to keep those door handles tight against the door? Mine loosen after a good romp on the beach.

 

[1951M1078]

Allen, how was the door handle swap. Anything I need to know ? Having a problem with one of mine I re-keyed and repaired. May need to go this way ?

 

[agazza2]

Does anyone know how to keep those door handles tight against the door? Mine loosen after a good romp on the beach.

I would locktite the bolts to keep them tight.

 

[agazza2]

Allen, how was the door handle swap. Anything I need to know ? Having a problem with one of mine I re-keyed and repaired. May need to go this way ?

The door handle swap was very straight forward with the excellent instructions that FMTVtrucks.com provides for the installation. They include templates, and it is just a matter of cutting out the template, taping in to the door, and tracing out the cut lines. I would recommend taping up the door 3" around where the cut lines are so the jigsaw does not scratch the door........unless your going to use the plasma cutter

These worked out perfectly for my truck, as there was a dent right where the old handle was located. That was cut out with the new handle install. Now I have a dent free door.

Randy, I would like to come out and see your truck again soon. Are you bringing it to the expo in May?

 

[agazza2]

Front lower cab bushing

As soon as I installed the new hydraulic manifold, and was able to lift the cab, and noticed that when it reached the full up position, there was an additional little bounce. I noticed that the lower cab bushing was completely disintegrated. Luckily this was a part that FMTVtrucks.com had in stock. I was able to install the cab mount last weekend. It requires a Deep 1 3/16" deep socket. I was able to purchase a medium depth socket at Sears that worked fine in a 3/4" drive. Here is a photo of the cab bushing they sell online. Also upon further inspection, I noticed the metal hinge support has only one of the legs attached to the bolt at the cab, which will require supporting the cab, and relocating it on the proper side of the bolt.

 

[Reworked LMTV]

A few upgrades I have done to my FMTV is install A1 door handle retrofit kit from FMTV trucks out of Montana. This was well worth it, and it is nice to finally be able to lock the doors. The handles are excellent quality, and you do not have to worry about breaking them trying to open the door. I also added side view camera above the marker lights to see the crazy Phoenix drivers that want to pass you on the right as soon as you signal.

What brand cameras did you use? I like your mod

 

[agazza2]

What brand cameras did you use? I like your mod

I used ones from Amazon, and had to rotate the camera inside the housing 45 degrees. The ones I bought allow you to cut the wire for the grid lines. The brand is Chuanganzhou Model CAZBC07. They are alright, but I think I may look for some higher quality ones. I am using a 9" display that allows for cameras to be viewed at the same time.

The monitor I am using is a Podofo 9" HD 12v/24V which I purchased from Amazon. I may need a filter on the power lead, as I do get some lines crossing the screen occasionally. I will try and get a photo to attach today of the monitor.

 

[319cssb]

As soon as I installed the new hydraulic manifold, and was able to lift the cab, and noticed that when it reached the full up position, there was an additional little bounce. I noticed that the lower cab bushing was completely disintegrated. Luckily this was a part that FMTVtrucks.com had in stock. I was able to install the cab mount last weekend. It requires a Deep 1 3/16" deep socket. I was able to purchase a medium depth socket at Sears that worked fine in a 3/4" drive. Here is a photo of the cab bushing they sell online. Also upon further inspection, I noticed the metal hinge support has only one of the legs attached to the bolt at the cab, which will require supporting the cab, and relocating it on the proper side of the bolt.

How much did the cab bushes cost you?

 

[agazza2]

FMTV Truck cab bishings price

How much did the cab bushes cost you?

The bushings were $50 each. At this time I only changed the passenger side one since the others still looked ok. I noticed they did not have them posted for sale on the large auction site under seller FMTVtrucks. So you may want to contact them directly. They have a e-mail contact form on their website under parts, or phone number 406-624-3963

 

[agazza2]

M1078 Cab Air Ride

I have one cab air ride bag leaking and getting ready to replace it. Based on the FMTV parts list spreadsheet it takes Firestone Airride Replacement spring - W02-356-7074. I did a google search and came up with SDTrucksprings.com selling this part for $41.06. Hopefully I should receive it this week, and can do a write up on the replacement.

Also, wanted to see what others are doing with their cracked timing covers? It cracks horizontally in front of the air compressor if the compressor bolts come loose. When I bought mine it had JB Weld in this area. Holds for awhile, but eventually leaks again. I am thinking of having a professional certified aluminum welder repair this on the vehicle. Anyone else use another method for this repair with any success?

5/2/2018 edited - I bought the $41 air bag assembly. It come with plastic ends on it. You would have to figure out how to either remove the clamps without damaging them, and re-use, or buy new clamps and figure out how to have them properly crimped. I do not think this is a good option unless you have a place to provide the clamp and crimp. See attached photos of the $41 assembly. Laer today I will add photos of the removed air bad assembly to show the need pieces that would need to be re-used.

I ended up buying the complete kit (PP997900 Power Packer) with the correct ends attached for $202.45 + S/H from Ohio Hydraulics. I do think this is the best way to go. I do have my old ends now if I want to try the other process to build a spare. When I removed the shock, the upper bushing was disintegrated into small little pieces and not even in the upper portion of the shock. I used a steel spacer 5/8" x 7/8" x 1" that fits perfectly available from Ace hardware for $2.19 (see installed photo).Anti-sieze was used on the outside of the spacer.

 

[319cssb]

I have one cab air ride bag leaking and getting ready to replace it. Based on the FMTV parts list spreadsheet it takes Firestone Airride Replacement spring - W02-356-7074. I did a google search and came up with SDTrucksprings.com selling this part for $41.06. Hopefully I should receive it this week, and can do a write up on the replacement.

Also, wanted to see what others are doing with their cracked timing covers? It cracks horizontally in front of the air compressor if the compressor bolts come loose. When I bought mine it had JB Weld in this area. Holds for awhile, but eventually leaks again. I am thinking of having a professional certified aluminum welder repair this on the vehicle. Anyone else use another method for this repair with any success?

Not sure if welding in place will be possible . As far as I know the pieces have to be pretty clean and fr e of any oils.
interesting to see how this will work out .

 

[Smike740]

I replaced mine with a used one from a local truck salvage yard. It wasn’t hard but it did take some time as I pulled the camshaft to pull the housing. It’s possible to pull the cam gear and avoid having to pull the cam, since the gear is pressed on you would have to preheat the gear to reassemble.

 

[Duckworthe]

Not sure if welding in place will be possible . As far as I know the pieces have to be pretty clean and fr e of any oils.
interesting to see how this will work out .

I agree. I have seen people try this and it just never works. The oils inside of the cover will seep out and cause a poor weld. Must be removed and cleaned for a correct repair. I've also seen some covers that look more cast then machined aluminum. It can still be done, just different techniques.

 

[scottmandu]

I would locktite the bolts to keep them tight.

Tried that, it's the cheap steel bracket holding them that is bending.

 

[agazza2]

Tried that, it's the cheap steel bracket holding them that is bending.

I think taking the bracket off, and having another one out of a thicker steel may be the answer. You would have to use longer bolts. Should be easy to fabricate new ones.