front half shaft replacement before or after alignment?

[1993]

planning to have alignment done. Expensive!
However, should I replace my front right half shaft before having alignment done? been putting it off for a while, outer boot is torn.
I'm guessing from the looks of it("seems" simple) that I can remove the shaft without touching any alignment components.
Is that correct?

 

[teteacher101]

planning to have alignment done. Expensive!
However, should I replace my front right half shaft before having alignment done? been putting it off for a while, outer boot is torn.
I'm guessing from the looks of it("seems" simple) that I can remove the shaft without touching any alignment components.
Is that correct?

You don't have to mess with anything that would effect the alignment. Shafts are not to bad to do. How much did they quote you for an alignment?

 

[1993]

You don't have to mess with anything that would effect the alignment. Shafts are not to bad to do. How much did they quote you for an alignment?

thanks, I had a feeling I wouldn't but already have the front lifted and wheel off. I might as well just change out the shaft before alignment.

alignment is $147.00, I'm used to paying about $75 per car but I guess if it includes dealing with rear shims then its a fine price.
It's supposedly a reputable shop but I've never been there because its a hike. only place in a 50 mile radius that can deal with this tire size.

My rear camber is insane, like the truck was meant to be loaded with another truck on the back but never was.
When I was picking out the truck I measured the ride height(all wheel) of about 30 trucks in the lot to check for even suspension and that it had not been overloaded in the rear. this truck was one of the two or three with highest and most level rear suspension.

any links to alignment specs for a 1993 M998? I would like to have them with me in to double check that the ones the shop has are the same. it seems like different years and variants(also mil vs civi) had different adjustments.
I've found civi specs for 1992-1995 but want to make sure they're correct.

 

[dhaumann69166]

I have done LOTS of alignments and the shop won’t need any info or specs. When they align it they put sensors on each wheel that read back to the main computer and show positive or negative camber and caster. Then they adjust until each wheel reads within a degree or less of where it should be. The rear should only have camber adjustment and the front will have camber, caster and toe adjustment.

 

[1993]

I have done LOTS of alignments and the shop won’t need any info or specs. When they align it they put sensors on each wheel that read back to the main computer and show positive or negative camber and caster. Then they adjust until each wheel reads within a degree or less of where it should be. The rear should only have camber adjustment and the front will have camber, caster and toe adjustment.

How do you do fine adjustment on rear camber? on mine there is just one layer of thick shims. are various thicknesses of shims available?

 

[Action]

$147? I was told a low price before. I went to pick up, and noticed they only touched toe. I went back in and was told they would have to charge me by the hour to do a full alignment. They gave me a refund and took the printout back....Bob Someral in Florence, KY.
Maybe your $147 will go up when they get into it. There are shims in the front Too.

 

[1993]

$147? I was told a low price before. I went to pick up, and noticed they only touched toe. I went back in and was told they would have to charge me by the hour to do a full alignment. They gave me a refund and took the printout back....Bob Someral in Florence, KY.
Maybe your $147 will go up when they get into it. There are shims in the front Too.

Thanks for the heads up Action.
did you shim it yourself? are there different shim sizes available somewhere?

 

[1993]

I have done LOTS of alignments and the shop won’t need any info or specs. When they align it they put sensors on each wheel that read back to the main computer and show positive or negative camber and caster. Then they adjust until each wheel reads within a degree or less of where it should be. The rear should only have camber adjustment and the front will have camber, caster and toe adjustment.

I am no expert in this so correct me if I'm wrong but from what I understand, the specs are different for different models and years because of the difference in weight and the fact that camber changes at speed.

 

[Milcommoguy]

If you are looking for a daily driver, highway flyer, parade show truck honey dooo runner you will have plenty of shims left over.

All of the wheel positions allows for camber, castor and toe. Trucks were designed to be loaded up. For $147 that might get just the tires removed just to see the the shim packs.

After that it's pulling the upper "A"arm bolts, lowering and holding the portal gear box, removing the frame to arm cups (4 bolts each cup times 8 locations per truck, 32 bolts that are not the easiest to get to. Figure which shims and how many to remove... put it ALL back together... test drive, check and do it again and more that likely a few more times before you can live with it.

All of the parts and pieces interact. I wouldn't worry to much about half shafts at this point and for sure you will have an idea once you or ??? tears into it. My concern would the ball joints, tie rod ends, radius rods bushings, and any big bent metal part, like all of it when connected together. If that not considered, your wasting you time.

Little note. Read the TM's and here's an easy read > https://hummerhuren.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/hmmwv_test-diagnostics.pdfn

That way you will know you got your moneys worth and it was done correct... or DIY.

For $147 that might be the deductible for the band-aids and swear jar. Anything stuck, stripped, busted, rusted or has to be thought thru is going to cost. Laughing with you, NOT at YA.

Let us know how it goes. Good Luck,

 

[Milcommoguy]

Messed up on the easy read link > https://hummerhuren.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/hmmwv_test-diagnostics.pdf

If anything this read should come with all trucks. That and your $69 on special Craftsman tool set, plus a couple extra sockets, some WD-40 or better, BIG hammer, Band-aids and a coffee can full of money.

 

[1993]

Messed up on the easy read link > https://hummerhuren.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/hmmwv_test-diagnostics.pdf

If anything this read should come with all trucks. That and your $69 on special Craftsman tool set, plus a couple extra sockets, some WD-40 or better, BIG hammer, Band-aids and a coffee can full of money.

Thanks,
I've had this and the TM's downloaded for a long time and have skimmed through them a few times.
My truck seems to have almost no rust underneath and any bolt I have undone was no problem thus far... unlike trucks and cars i work on which get a salt(and/or calcium chloride) bath every winter. plenty of hydrogen peroxide and rubbing alcohol on hand.

in terms of shims, I see 4 shims total in the rear and none in the front. i understand what you mean by the bolts being not easy to get to, I originally was thinking of doing the whole alignment myself with a tape measure as per one of the illustrated maintenance manuals but figured the truck deserves a more precise adjustment at least once in it's life.

It's definitely a long job without the right tools and a truck lift.
i'm building my shop right now and my 12,000lb mohawk lift is in the back yard under a tarp.

The shop that gave me the "$147" price did say that it's their "most expensive" alignment price.
so... i guess i'll find out if they keep their word.
And they did ask for year, make, model, and tire size beforehand(when I asked if they can definitely handle it) , so those facts shouldn't be an excuse for price change. But worst case I guess I'll be open to a compromise if the job is not what they anticipated and they're still up for the task.

I'll let you know how it goes!

 

[teteacher101]

thanks, I had a feeling I wouldn't but already have the front lifted and wheel off. I might as well just change out the shaft before alignment.

alignment is $147.00, I'm used to paying about $75 per car but I guess if it includes dealing with rear shims then its a fine price.
It's supposedly a reputable shop but I've never been there because its a hike. only place in a 50 mile radius that can deal with this tire size.

My rear camber is insane, like the truck was meant to be loaded with another truck on the back but never was.
When I was picking out the truck I measured the ride height(all wheel) of about 30 trucks in the lot to check for even suspension and that it had not been overloaded in the rear. this truck was one of the two or three with highest and most level rear suspension.

any links to alignment specs for a 1993 M998? I would like to have them with me in to double check that the ones the shop has are the same. it seems like different years and variants(also mil vs civi) had different adjustments.
I've found civi specs for 1992-1995 but want to make sure they're correct.

My camber was like that too. The shims aren't the worst part, the plates are what suck as they are not slotted like the shims so the bolts have to come all the way out. It doesn't take much rust plus the bolts are torqued to about 1 million foot pounds so you gotta eat your Wheaties! I gave the shop a photocopy of the TM with the specs on it. $147 sounds like a toe an go, they have no idea what they are in for to get those plated out. I called 4 different shops before I finally got one that would tackle it. They treated me right though, 4 wheel alignment, took out shims in the right front, wrestled 2 tires swapping them out an the run flats inserts, an balanced the tires. They did it all for $200 an something-I can't remember the exact amount but it was more than fair.

 

[1993]

My camber was like that too. The shims aren't the worst part, the plates are what suck as they are not slotted like the shims so the bolts have to come all the way out. It doesn't take much rust plus the bolts are torqued to about 1 million foot pounds so you gotta eat your Wheaties! I gave the shop a photocopy of the TM with the specs on it. $147 sounds like a toe an go, they have no idea what they are in for to get those plated out. I called 4 different shops before I finally got one that would tackle it. They treated me right though, 4 wheel alignment, took out shims in the right front, wrestled 2 tires swapping them out an the run flats inserts, an balanced the tires. They did it all for $200 an something-I can't remember the exact amount but it was more than fair.

did you have the rear plates removed?

 

[Action]

My camber was like that too. The shims aren't the worst part, the plates are what suck as they are not slotted like the shims so the bolts have to come all the way out. It doesn't take much rust plus the bolts are torqued to about 1 million foot pounds so you gotta eat your Wheaties! I gave the shop a photocopy of the TM with the specs on it. $147 sounds like a toe an go, they have no idea what they are in for to get those plated out. I called 4 different shops before I finally got one that would tackle it. They treated me right though, 4 wheel alignment, took out shims in the right front, wrestled 2 tires swapping them out an the run flats inserts, an balanced the tires. They did it all for $200 an something-I can't remember the exact amount but it was more than fair.

The bolts holding the shims and buckets are only torqued to 90 lb-ft.

 

[teteacher101]

did you have the rear plates removed?

I removed them myself.

 

[teteacher101]

The bolts holding the shims and buckets are only torqued to 90 lb-ft.

Had me fooled then! Being torqued to 90 lb-ft at the factory, then working as a contortionist around the gas tank an some of those difficult spots, then multiply that by 28 years of corrosion, it comes out to about 1 million foot pounds.

 

[Carrera911]

Dealing with this myself at the moment. All 4 tires are wearing uneven with the outside about 1/4” less tread in the rear and 1/8” less in the front. I can deal with the front and now that I’ve added the winch it’s probably close enough. While I’m in the middle of painting my frame I pulled the large A arm bolts before it got dark last night. Doesn’t look to be too bad of a job with an assortment of impact guns, breaker bars and wrenches. I plan to remove all the rear shims and put all the hardware back together with anti seize to make installation easier as well as removal down the road. I’ll probably do a tape measure or string alignment for the toe since doing this should toe out both tires though I’m not sure by how much.


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[Action]

Dealing with this myself at the moment. All 4 tires are wearing uneven with the outside about 1/4” less tread in the rear and 1/8” less in the front. I can deal with the front and now that I’ve added the winch it’s probably close enough. While I’m in the middle of painting my frame I pulled the large A arm bolts before it got dark last night. Doesn’t look to be too bad of a job with an assortment of impact guns, breaker bars and wrenches. I plan to remove all the rear shims and put all the hardware back together with anti seize to make installation easier as well as removal down the road. I’ll probably do a tape measure or string alignment for the toe since doing this should toe out both tires though I’m not sure by how much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is there a formula for calculating torque of a bolt after anti-seize has been added?

 

[Carrera911]

Is there a formula for calculating torque of a bolt after anti-seize has been added?

There is somewhere but the reality is that if this has ever come apart before I would bet whoever did it didn’t care enough to torque it to spec. I do torque my lugs on all my vehicles and lot of other things most people don’t bother with, **** even spark plugs, but I don’t think it’s a huge deal having bolts this large torqued to spec. I’ll probably try to use the torque wrench but if it gives me too much hassle I won’t bother with it.


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[1993]

Had me fooled then! Being torqued to 90 lb-ft at the factory, then working as a contortionist around the gas tank an some of those difficult spots, then multiply that by 28 years of corrosion, it comes out to about 1 million foot pounds.

�� yup, awkward access can definitely multiply the degree of challenge!