Best tie down point locations for cargo control for a m101(a2) trailer

[hplacess]

hi.

I have a m101a2 trailer that I am looking to configure to haul cargo (on occasion).

I am looking for ideas, from people with experience, for the best 'tie down point locations', and hardware, for 'general' cargo control. pics would be great.

I have been looking (and searching forums) for a while, but before I buy anything and start drilling I thought I would ask people with experience what works and what does not work (hardware and mount point locations).

Now I know that the best tie down point locations might be unique for the type of load I am looking to carry, but I am looking for a 'general' approach that allows me to tie down just about anything (within limits, I know).

Some examples might be (though not necessarily all at the same time):

multiple nato style gas cans
multiple nato style water containers
helping someone move their furniture
wood from home depot - sheets or boards
tires/wheels
miscellaneous building supplies
boxes
off road recovery gear
kayaks
etc.


Thanks in advance

 

[gimpyrobb]

I put "E-track" in mine and would do it again, its great.

 

[hplacess]

I put "E-track" in mine and would do it again, its great.

thanks

'where' in the trailer did you mount it?

sides? front? (if yes, how high off the floor?)

floor? (if yes, how far from the sides?)

 

[gimpyrobb]

I looked for pics, can't find any right now. I put it about an inch from the top rail all around except fpr the tailgate.

In all fairness, I found some box tube to put under the lip around the outside top of the trailer, I ran the screws into that for strength. I used the front "A" frame area as an anchor for my come-a-longs and pulled heavy crap in the bed that way. The trailer sheet metal showed it was flexing, so that was why I put the tube under the lip. I plan on putting some on the floor, but have yet to get to that mod.

 

[juanprado]

I found at a truck stop, I think Petro but hazy memory a lighter & shorter version of a locking load bar maybe $25. These are used alot in dry 18 wheeler vans to keep loads/pallets from shifting. It is bar with 2 feet with rubber pads and one side has a ratchet to make it expand tight.

Perfect for wedging cargo in the m101 tight. Just right length and strength. I think a standard bar would be way too long.

 

[harleyhouse]

Most of the junk I haul fits under the cover, when I do have items higher than the lip I just use heavy duty ratchet straps hooked to the cover hooks or lift rings.
I have a rack for kayaks and hauling longer loads. As for gear I keep my table, ez up, stove, chairs at the front held from sliding around with a tailgate net from a full size truck. It is removable for longer items.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I forgot about that, for bulky items I use a load-tamer cargo net. I have several and wouldn't part with any of them! What a great addition to have.

 

[clinto]

I haven't done this myself, but Gimp's e-track thing is awesome. I love that stuff.

If you want to keep it stock, you can add the military cargo tie downs, although it's a lot more work. I saw a 105 on GL like 10 years ago that had had the tie downs installed, so you can claim it's something the military did, albeit rarely.

 

[tobyS]

I'm another believer in Chris's cargo net. And with it he uses what I think is called a climbing carabinder...a clip that lets it be tightened or let out, depending on the load size.

Look at the lifting eyes on a 105 and do similar, maybe smaller...and more of them.

 

[gimpyrobb]

The "beaners" came with the cargo net system.

A search on egay of 23243777262 should bring up some info. Stonepicker here on the site had some a while back.

 

[hplacess]

Thanks for sharing all of the great ideas.

Here is what I came up with.

I found some nice d-rings on etrailer that were not too big and not too small:

https://www.etrailer.com/Tie-Down-Anchors/Brophy/SR15-C.html

I found attachment hardware at Lowes.

Total cost was about $4.25 per attachment point (3/8" hardware).

I have:
1 attachment point in each of the 4 corners of the floor.
2 attachment points mid way by the wheel wells on the floor.
The rest of the attachment points are around the top. I installed the top mounted attachment point sideways so that both bolts are closer to the squared top of the bed (for strength and to help prevent flexing of the sheetmetal), and so that the hardware is not visible from the outside (I like the original clean look of the box).

I zip-tied the front load containment extension (not sure what to call it, the removable pieces) to the left side load containment extension so that I can reduce wind drag when i do not need it to contain a high load. But, if I need to use it I just cut the zip-ties and put the extension in place.

I found that the spare tire fits perfectly in the front right space between the wheel well and the front of the trailer inside of the box. One of the attachment points there is a perfect place to attach a cam-buckle strap or ratchet strap to hold the wheel in place. I will post a pic once I have that tire in place.



view up the middle:





view of the left side:





view of the right side:





view of the hardware:

 

[Tinstar]

Looks like your ready for about any cargo.

Some tan carc spraypainted on those and it will look almost factory.

 

[tobyS]

Looks good!!! Handy!!

In my pick-up I use short pieces 24" of chain permanently attached at the front so I can bring it up and not have to fight the load reaching down.

i could see having them on the outside also, where the fender washers are located (instead of the washers use another d-ring). Have fun!

 

[Tinstar]

Do the front gate modification and you’ll be all set.

 

[WSTEPHENS]

Mine has tie down points built into the floor.

 

[Tinstar]

Mine has tie down points built into the floor.

Sounds like you have a M1101/2
Those are built in.

Pics?

 

[WSTEPHENS]

My trailer.
Bought in Dover Delaware with two tops and a spare that had a nail in it.

 

[MarkM]

I used the military small D Rings in my M101A2 in the four corners and it worked great. Single bolt setup and use a good washer on the underside of the bed. Very strong and just one hole per ring.

Mark




http://armysurpluswarehouse.com/military-issue-vehicle-cargo-tie-down/
TIE DOWN - RETAINER ASSEMBLY ("D" RING)

 

[Tinstar]

I used the military small D Rings in my M101A2 the the four corners and it worked great. Single bolt setup and use a good washer on the underside of the bed. Very strong and just one hole per ring.

Mark

View attachment 730976


http://armysurpluswarehouse.com/military-issue-vehicle-cargo-tie-down/
TIE DOWN - RETAINER ASSEMBLY ("D" RING)

Just ordered 12