Fuel Screen on MEP-8XX cleaning?

[devilphrog]

Just attempted to fill my MEP-803A and it is super slow to fill, after I disassembled and finally got around to installing the ultimate well nut modification(s). I pulled out the inlet screen to inspect it and it's pretty gummed up (can't see any light through it). I tried some carburetor cleaner to clean the mesh out, but it's not really doing the trick. Any suggestions? I was thinking about getting my torch out and burning the screen clean, much like one cleans a spark arrestor on small outdoor power equipment.

Anybody else had this issue before or another solution to this?

 

[pjwest03]

I go with a method known in these parts as "carburettor soup". Find an old pot big enough to hold it covered in water, add about 1/2 cup of baking soda, and boil it for 10-20 minutes. It'll clear out the goo. The goo tends to be slightly acidic and the baking soda breaks the bonds holding it together. After you take it out, wash it with soapy water to get rid of the baking soda that will form a slight haze on the part. It's a real old timers trick. I find that it works a bit better than acid cleaning with vinegar or lemon juice.

 

[devilphrog]

Thanks, I'll have to try that. I'll also have to sneak one of my wife's pots out of the kitchen

 

[Bmxenbrett]

Paint thinner/mineral spirits. Let it soak and use a tooth brush to scrub it. Soak it again then use a blow gun.

 

[devilphrog]

It took me a year to get to this (been using aux tank) but solvent was slow and messy so I just hit the screen with a propane torch and burned the sludge out and cleaned it up with compressed air and a rag. Good as new and can see daylight through it now!

 

[jamawieb]

If you have a pressure washer, just put it on the something solid and step on it to hold it place, then power wash the screen. Takes seconds to clean them. I've only had 2 (that was on2 002a's) that I just let soak in cleaner for days and then power washed it, usually they come clean.

 

[Weller]

I go with a method known in these parts as "carburettor soup". Find an old pot big enough to hold it covered in water, add about 1/2 cup of baking soda, and boil it for 10-20 minutes. It'll clear out the goo. The goo tends to be slightly acidic and the baking soda breaks the bonds holding it together. After you take it out, wash it with soapy water to get rid of the baking soda that will form a slight haze on the part. It's a real old timers trick. I find that it works a bit better than acid cleaning with vinegar or lemon juice.

Last year I made an outdoor wood burning barrel stove since I'm always cleaning parts and contaminating the kitchen sink was getting old. See photos. I've got the big soaking pot, a pot to soak brushes (and warm my camo paint) after use, a pot with hot soapy water (and liquid soap in spray bottle), and a pot for keeping my coffee warm.



I keep improving on it and I'm planning to add a 2nd burning barrel with a larger parts soaking pot.

 

[smokem joe]

Is that stove right next to a tank of fuel?

 

[Weller]

Nope, that's a water tank.

 

[smokem joe]

Ok good. I didn't think anyone would do that, but in today's world always good to ask!

 

[jqc99]

Mine was awful when I pulled it out to do the ultimate well nut. A few long blasts of brake cleaner worked for me. Cleaned it right out in no time.

 

[2Pbfeet]

Anyone have any tips on how to restore the galvanized finish on the sleeve holding the screen? (I think that it is part MS90908-1, but I'm not sure) I have one with speckled surface rust over most of the surface.

Thanks!

 

[Digger556]

Anyone have any tips on how to restore the galvanized finish on the sleeve holding the screen? (I think that it is part MS90908-1, but I'm not sure) I have one with speckled surface rust over most of the surface.

Thanks!

I've always assumed that the strainer is zinc plated, base on appearance. I know zinc should be avoided when in contact with diesel. There are lots of tutorials for home plating and nickel plating is pretty common with good results.

As far as I know, and correct me if wrong, but there are not compatibilty issues with nickel and diesel.

High Quality (and Safe) Nickel Plating

High Quality (and Safe) Nickel Plating: Just like my popular copper plating instructable, the aim of this is to do high quality, low cost, and safe electroplating. We will also be making our own electrolyte from scratch instead of buying chemicals online. If you've looked at my copper p…

www.instructables.com

 

[2Pbfeet]

I've always assumed that the strainer is zinc plated, base on appearance. I know zinc should be avoided when in contact with diesel. There are lots of tutorials for home plating and nickel plating is pretty common with good results.

As far as I know, and correct me if wrong, but there are not compatibilty issues with nickel and diesel.

High Quality (and Safe) Nickel Plating

High Quality (and Safe) Nickel Plating: Just like my popular copper plating instructable, the aim of this is to do high quality, low cost, and safe electroplating. We will also be making our own electrolyte from scratch instead of buying chemicals online. If you've looked at my copper p…

www.instructables.com

That sounds like a solution. I have the gear for it, other than the nickel acetate.
Thanks!
2Pb