Dog Bones

[sassriverrat]

Easily got the bottom four dog bones swapped out. Anyone have any recommendations for getting the top two off? I have the bed off the truck right now but I still can’t get a wrench or socket into those two nuts.

Thanks!

Also- I’m pressing dog bones for anyone interested. About $150 plus shipping with core, $200 for the job and “safety bars” on the ends.

 

[simp5782]

Easily got the bottom four dog bones swapped out. Anyone have any recommendations for getting the top two off? I have the bed off the truck right now but I still can’t get a wrench or socket into those two nuts.

Thanks!

Also- I’m pressing dog bones for anyone interested. About $150 plus shipping with core, $200 for the job and “safety bars” on the ends.

Per the tm you need to remove the spring pack. There are other ways around it though as in the thread below.

If it is a wrecker rear suspension you must remove the springs and the axle clamps to get the uppers out

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...share_tid=167166&share_fid=20191&share_type=t

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[wheelspinner]

I did the upper without removing the spring pack. It wasn't easy but it is possible. We used the blue flame wrench to carefully cut the old off and then just put it back together. That's 4 years ago and thousands of Miles ago so must not be so bad. Biggest thing I would do different is get the two tires out of the way.

 

[74M35A2]

I did my uppers (all 6 bones, actually) in place without removing bed, tires, or spring U bolts, M925a2. Made a tool from an "offset striking wrench", then pulled this wrench handle rearward with another vehicle and tow strap since it had a short handle and was in a confined space. Worked perfectly. I have the tool part number listed in a thread, or could loan you the one I made for $200 PayPal deposit, if I can find it.... The tool head has to be thinned down with a cut off wheel. Start at about post #100 in the link Simp just posted for my install. I added retainer plates to the new ones, but they sell them like this now.

 

[gstirling]

i just did all mine on an M936a1, a lot depends on your trucks condition (ie how stuck your old torque rod ends are in the truck) as to how the upper inboard ends can be removed, for sure removing the two tires and the spring top beam will do it. and that is not overly hard, the 4 u-bolt nuts are a bit of a booger to get off (on a wrecker). second way is to get the 2-1/4 (???) striking wrench for about 40$ and modify it as shown on the other threads (you slice off about 1/4 to 1/2 in.) so it will fit or weld one up as swampdonkey did. i had to use a two ton come-a-long to pull the wrench one notch at a time to get the nuts off - long time.... but then could not get the rod end to pop loose and get the nuts out, tried the wood wedge trick (swampdonkey thread i think covers that), then i got a min hydraulic ram (4 ton) it is only an 1 inch thick or so... popped one torque rod end loose, unscrewed the nut the remainder of the way and presto..right out... the other one, no joy.. so in the end had to break the suspension beam off and hit it straight on with a sledge hammer really really hard.... popped loose.

so if yours are really, really stuck, you will have to hit them straight on with a sledge, if not, you might get them to pop off with the wood wedge trick or you can gamble a 100$ and get the mini ram and cylinder (harbor frieght or northern tool) and yu might get them out with out suspension disassembly. i will send you the striking hammer for S&H if you need it (PM me).

 

[gstirling]

i just did all mine on an M936a1, a lot depends on your trucks condition (ie how stuck your old torque rod ends are in the truck) as to how the upper inboard ends can be removed, for sure removing the two tires and the spring top beam will do it. and that is not overly hard, the 4 u-bolt nuts are a bit of a booger to get off (on a wrecker). second way is to get the 2-1/4 (???) striking wrench for about 40$ and modify it as shown on the other threads (see thread 74M35a2 posted all his pics of it)(you slice off about 1/4 to 1/2 in.) so it will fit or weld one up as swampdonkey did. i had to use a two ton come-a-long to pull the wrench one notch at a time to get the nuts off - long time.... but then could not get the rod end to pop loose and get the nuts out, tried the wood wedge trick (swampdonkey thread i think covers that), then i got a min hydraulic ram (4 ton) it is only an 1 inch thick or so... popped one torque rod end loose, unscrewed the nut the remainder of the way and presto..right out... the other one, no joy.. so in the end had to break the suspension beam off and hit it straight on with a sledge hammer really really hard.... popped loose.

so if yours are really, really stuck, you will have to hit them straight on with a sledge, if not, you might get them to pop off with the wood wedge trick or you can gamble a 100$ and get the mini ram and cylinder (harbor frieght or northern tool) and yu might get them out with out suspension disassembly. i will send you the striking hammer for S&H if you need it (PM me).

 

[73m819]

With the bed off, the uppers should be a piece of cake, If you are doing the rear upper, place a jack under the middle axle on the upper side, jack the axle end up as far as it will go, this will drop the rear axle down which will allow you to get to the retaining nut, pull the cotter pin, pull the nut, a few hard hits with a BFH, the tapered end will pop out, as far as the axle end housing, just unbolt the torque rod mount, reverse the procedure for the middle axle, with the bed on things will work the same but with a bit more cussing, this will work on ALL 5ts except those that have walking beam suspension (wreckers, ect.)

 

[sassriverrat]

Also, impressing dog bones at $150 a bone plus shipping and handling if anyone needs it done.

Anyone have ave a good supplier of ubolts?

 

[74M35A2]

That’s the price of a 20 ton press to do the job, torque rods are not cheap to ship, does that include the cost of new end links, and this should be in the classifieds.

U bolts of this type are typically bent to shape by local heavy duty spring shops.

 

[sassriverrat]

Well I should clarify. That includes giving me good cores and I supply ends. That does not include me welding on “safety stops” which I’m happy to do, but for an additional cost. I’ll post over there.