What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[Rutjes]

Not too much done today. I wish I had cucvrus' knowledge so I could take the whole truck apart in half a day. I'm learning as I go, trying to figure out how the truck is put together and taking reference pictures for later.

Unmounted and disconnected more stuff on and going through the firewall.



Next time I will take off the master brake cylinder, shift linkage, hood and windows. Then I have to organize a BBQ for friends... can't lift the cab off on my own.

Moved the M1009 away. Swept the working area (**** pine trees!). I will move the truck forward and put the cab on a stand behind it so I have room in front of it to take the engine out. Might even have enough room to put the bed on a stand behind the cab.



Never really looked there I guess, but I found rust on the top/right side of the windshield. This really bothers me! I hope it won't be too bad...

 

[cucvrus]

Never really looked there I guess, but I found rust on the top/right side of the windshield. This really bothers me! I hope it won't be too bad...

I think you are going to have some repair work there. But I would much rather find it now then after you reassemble the truck. I always remove all the glass from the steel cab and doors. Never do an over all paint job with glass and weather strips in place. Except Terminus and a few trail trucks I had. But still worth the time to remove as much as you can makes the whole job better and finds all the puss right up front instead of later. Pinch welds are always rusty on CUCV's that old flat paint and old steel was a haven for rust. It never dried completely. Good Luck. You look like you are doing fine. Getting the old paint off the cab interior can be a task. You don't want to just paint over it till you know how it is going to react to paint. Make sense?

 

[Rutjes]

Never really looked there I guess, but I found rust on the top/right side of the windshield. This really bothers me! I hope it won't be too bad...

I think you are going to have some repair work there. But I would much rather find it now then after you reassemble the truck. I always remove all the glass from the steel cab and doors. Never do an over all paint job with glass and weather strips in place. Except Terminus and a few trail trucks I had. But still worth the time to remove as much as you can makes the whole job better and finds all the puss right up front instead of later. Pinch welds are always rusty on CUCV's that old flat paint and old steel was a haven for rust. It never dried completely. Good Luck. You look like you are doing fine. Getting the old paint off the cab interior can be a task. You don't want to just paint over it till you know how it is going to react to paint. Make sense?

The cab will be completely stripped before paint. I was never really worried about the rust I knew of, like the rocker panels. Patch panels don't look too hard to fit in. If it really is that bad, I can maybe cut some "patch panels" out of the M1009?

I will be using a two-component paint. Two-component epoxy primer on bare steel. I think it should be ok, but I will do a test area first. I've read contradicting stories about painting over CARC.

Also, I'm looking to get a good air compressor and media blasting kit. I think the best thing to do is blast the frame, epoxy primer it and then paint. For body parts I will just blast the rusted areas, repair, epoxy primer bare steel, sand/scuff up existing paint and then apply paint over it.

 

[Merddin]

Two new Kumho at51 235/85/r16 installed on front of m1008. The tires I replaced had a date code from 1991. They were getting pretty rough and with the warm weather we have had I was afraid they would blow. Tires were ordered from Walmart website for $125 a piece and I got them free shipping in 3 days to my house. More tires next month I think.

Got all my idiot lights and high beam indicator light going in dash cluster after many previous hours cleaning contacts. I thought I was ready to install dash but high beam indicator wouldn't come on. So I had to reach inside dash to get the darn bulb. Then I had to bend the center connector inward a little and it worked. I had already checked, cleaned, and lubed each connector, but apparently that wasn't enough.

Epoxied plastic studs back on dash trim. Installed to dash. Put dash in truck next after thorough cleaning. Finally, put black face plate back in over instrument panel.

My voltmeter works after replacing resistor 6 mo ago. It has been on my work bench for a while.

Next up, remove seat and work on floor padding and carpet.
Will post pics soon

 

[Merddin]

Sylvania led bulbs for my instrument cluster.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Sylvania led bulbs for my instrument cluster.View attachment 736473

I think that's the first CUCV cluster I've seen actually fully lit... Hahahaa

 

[SSGTUSMC]

Installed new tie rods left and right, and installed an HF Ham Radio tonight. Good accomplishment for tonight!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Merddin]

I think that's the first CUCV cluster I've seen actually fully lit... Hahahaa

Yes I agree. I have a k5 too and you can barely see the gauges at night. I only switched the three backlighting bulbs with LEDs bc they were $7 a pop at Walmart. O'Reilly wanted 12$. Definitely worth the $20 if you already have instrument cluster out.

 

[cucvrus]

The cab will be completely stripped before paint. I was never really worried about the rust I knew of, like the rocker panels. Patch panels don't look too hard to fit in. If it really is that bad, I can maybe cut some "patch panels" out of the M1009?

I will be using a two-component paint. Two-component epoxy primer on bare steel. I think it should be ok, but I will do a test area first. I've read contradicting stories about painting over CARC.

Also, I'm looking to get a good air compressor and media blasting kit. I think the best thing to do is blast the frame, epoxy primer it and then paint. For body parts I will just blast the rusted areas, repair, epoxy primer bare steel, sand/scuff up existing paint and then apply paint over it.

I have NEVER had any problems painting over CARC. I use a lot of sandpaper if the CARC is heavy and rough but after it is smooth I go over it with sealer and paint it normally. I sand everything with 80 grit 5" disc sander. And follow up with 180. If you are going to paint another camouflage paint as a finish 180 is fine enough. I used to get carried away. Many things I just scuff and smooth out seal and paint. Works well here. CARC paint is not real hard to paint if you use the right thinners. If NOT it will dry as fast as you put it on and that is not good either. Have a Great Day. Careful what you blast on the body. That sand gets into everything else that is around.

 

[Tinstar]

Next up, remove seat and work on floor padding and carpet.
Will post pics soon

Padding and Carpet?!

Ok

Rust will soon follow.

 

[Merddin]

Padding and Carpet?!

Ok

Rust will soon follow.

Just took the tar paper and felt padding from my k5 and am putting in m1008. It is factory GM stuff. The k5 is very rusty no rockers left or cab corners, but when I pulled the carpet, floor pan was in good condition. That is after years of a leaky windshield and constant moisture in floor board. The k5 is an 86.

Why would putting the factory supplied tar paper and felt padding cause rust?
My main goal is to reduce cab noise. I am also transferring my hood blanket from k5 to m1008.

 

[cucvrus]

Same reason the floor never dries and it is rusty 24/7 under that rug. I remember an order the Army gave in the PS magazine to remove all the rubber mats and jute backing from CUCV's in certain areas. I seen a lot with the anti skid painted on the floor. But by all means cover the floor and put sound deadener in. Fair warning is it will never stop rusting unless you park it in a dry building and never drive it in wet weather. I remove every cover and have no rust for over 20 years. Expensive option. Line X. I had the same truck 20 years and just sold it. used it hard in mud and snow. Floor never rusted and I washed it out a couple times a year with a hose and scrub brush.

 

[Merddin]

Mine has the anti skid coating on floor. As of now there is little to no rust on this truck. None in floor pan. IIhave one small spot on driver cab corners where a plug fell out and some dirt got in. Whenever I get money to build a shop the m1008 will be in there, and I have our cars in my garage. So for now it has to sit outside.

plan on putting line x in bed for sure. They quoted me around $500. I saw the line x yo put on your floor board and it did look great. I already have the new carpet and all my stuff out of the k5, so that is route I am taking. I am poor, so I scrounge what I can and buy what I have to!

 

[Tinstar]

This is the stuff I use.
Benefits of being in aviation.
Creeps extremely well into all the nooks and crannies.
Sprayed it all inside CUCV cab floor and corners and just refreshed a few months ago.
I use it on my M101A2 trailers and pretty much everything.
Never worry about rust again, unless it comes from bottom to top.
Stops and prevents corrosion and repels moisture.

Expensive but cheap insurance.
Each spray treatment last about two years.
$15-18 per spray can.

I know there are plenty of other products that do roughly same thing.
It’s what I use since I have access to it.

 

[Merddin]

View attachment 736521View attachment 736520

This is the stuff I use.
Benefits of being in aviation.
Creeps extreamly well into all the nooks and crannies.
Sprayed it all inside CUCV cab floor and corners and just refreshed a few months ago.
I use it on my M101A2 trailers and pretty much everything.
Never worry about rust again, unless it comes from bottom to top.
Stops and prevents corrosion and repels moisture.

Expensive but cheap insurance.
Each spray treatment last about two years.
$15-18 per spray can.

I know there are plenty of other products that do roughly same thing.
It’s what I use since I have access to it.

Where do you get it? If I could put something down on the floor pan first would be great. Thanks

 

[Rutjes]

I have NEVER had any problems painting over CARC. I use a lot of sandpaper if the CARC is heavy and rough but after it is smooth I go over it with sealer and paint it normally. I sand everything with 80 grit 5" disc sander. And follow up with 180. If you are going to paint another camouflage paint as a finish 180 is fine enough. I used to get carried away. Many things I just scuff and smooth out seal and paint. Works well here. CARC paint is not real hard to paint if you use the right thinners. If NOT it will dry as fast as you put it on and that is not good either. Have a Great Day. Careful what you blast on the body. That sand gets into everything else that is around.

I plan on using paint, primer and thinner from De Ijssel Coatings. Very well known brand usually used on yachts tho. Flat paint for the body and satin for frame, engine bay and parts as it's less porous. Specification sheets of De Ijssel mention 320 to 400 grit, but I think I'll go closer to your numbers and get an assortment of 120, 180 and 240.

 

[Merddin]

View attachment 736521View attachment 736520

This is the stuff I use.
Benefits of being in aviation.
Creeps extreamly well into all the nooks and crannies.
Sprayed it all inside CUCV cab floor and corners and just refreshed a few months ago.
I use it on my M101A2 trailers and pretty much everything.
Never worry about rust again, unless it comes from bottom to top.
Stops and prevents corrosion and repels moisture.

Expensive but cheap insurance.
Each spray treatment last about two years.
$15-18 per spray can.

I know there are plenty of other products that do roughly same thing.
It’s what I use since I have access to it.

Found it on Amazon. They had 32 oz for $30. I will check it out. Thanks!

 

[Tinstar]

Found it on Amazon. They had 32 oz for $30. I will check it out. Thanks!

eBay has it also.
Excellent stuff.

Used it on the floor of my 5 tons, then stock floor paddling on top of that.
Zero rust issues and the soft tops on the 5 tons always leaked. Even when brand new.

 

[RobM36A2]

Greetings from The Netherlands.

Drove the M1028 with 1000kg of trailer behind it on vacation to the UK. The starting issue was still present, but I wanted to go there..
Average fuel use was kind of high with 5.5km/litre, normally around 6.5km/litre, I blame the heavy trailer for that.
No oil or coolant use, for a round trip of around 500 miles at a cruising speed of 52-53 mph.
Did have to use a little puff of brake cleaner to start when I left the vacation site.
I had a soldier B crank the enginge while I puffed a little of that nasty stuff in the intake.

In the UK met an old guy who I befriended a few years ago because of same vehicle/trailer combination.
He sold his truck and had some spare parts with him to sell. I bought a set of DieselRx glowplugs from him as I figured out my plugs were bad again.
Specs on the box: 6.2 CUCV Military Premium dual coil glow plugs. Part number: DRX00070
Best £27 I spent EVER! Price on the box said $68.50 for a set of 8. So got them fairly cheap.

After getting home and waiting on my buddy who had the correct tools for the job (long 3/8 socket) , changed all 8 plugs in about 3 hours.
The old ones were tested, but were all dead as a doornail. My buddy is going to use them in one of his art creations.

While we changed the plugs, I modded the glowplug system again. (previous mod was manual button)
Now the resistorbank is disconnected and the relay gets power from the 12v bus just above it.
No more over voltage for the plugs when 1 of them decides to die.

After the Glowplug change and resistorbank bypass just 7 seconds of glowing made my truck come back alive again.

Have a great weekend!

EDIT:
I just had some heavy wire running direct from the 12v bus to the GP relay.
Should I have used the piece of wire with the fusible link from the resistor bank??
No fuse between the bus and relay for now, but if this can be a fire hazard, the wire with the fusible link goes in.

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

The last few days I've been making some progress on the NV4500 swap. There's still a bunch left to finish up but the truck is running and driving again.