MEP002A Voltage Gauge Showing Voltage But Not Output at the plugs

[mitchsc0tt0]

Hey All,
Recently just picked up an mep002 was kind of in rough shape but i have it running now. Voltage gauge is showing 120 but problem is when i try and plug something into the plugs i am not getting any power? Any ideas where i should start? Do you need to have the HZ gauge hooked up for it to work i was missing mine so i don't have that hooked up yet.

Thanks,

Mitich

 

[Light in the Dark]

Welcome to SS. So... you happen to peek through the TMs on this genset yet? Are you able to get power at the lugs?

 

[mitchsc0tt0]

Welcome to SS. So... you happen to peek through the TMs on this genset yet? Are you able to get power at the lugs?

Haven't checked the lugs yet I would figure the outlets should have power above everything else since they bypass a lot. I have checked some of the TM's not really sure where to start though especially since the voltage gauge is saying it has power.

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[DieselAddict]

Check for power at the lugs with the breaker on and check the little push-button breaker next to the outlet. It might be popped out a little or needs to be pulled out and pushed in a few times to clean off its contacts.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I want to see if the machine makes power. If you have power at the lugs, you only need to troubleshoot the circuit that involves the outlet. See my logic?

 

[mitchsc0tt0]

Check for power at the lugs with the breaker on and check the little push-button breaker next to the outlet. It might be popped out a little or needs to be pulled out and pushed in a few times to clean off its contacts.

Ok so just went out and gave it a shot it looks like I got voltage once at the lugs but then I couldn't get it to read anything again. Another thing I noticed is as I throttle the engine it looks like the gauge is loosing voltage goers down from 120 to 100 but if I let off the throttle goes back up to 120 but still no power at lugs.



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[Light in the Dark]

So do you have the throttle control pulled all the way out, or is it running a less than full speed? The gauges on these older machines should be taken with a grain of salt. One of the best tools you can buy is called a Kill-A-Watt. Google it... and get one (under $30). Will allow you to see real time voltage and hertz info on digital screen (to compare against what the analog gauges tell you).

What position is the machine set to for making power? And the gauge on the face.... how do you have it set? Want to make sure they are both set to what you want.

 

[mitchsc0tt0]

Less then full speed. I tried full mid and low and low throttle seems to be where the volt gauge reads 120. Either way still not getting anything at the lugs. I have transfer switch set to 120 1 phase.

So do you have the throttle control pulled all the way out, or is it running a less than full speed? The gauges on these older machines should be taken with a grain of salt. One of the best tools you can buy is called a Kill-A-Watt. Google it... and get one (under $30). Will allow you to see real time voltage and hertz info on digital screen (to compare against what the analog gauges tell you).

What position is the machine set to for making power? And the gauge on the face.... how do you have it set? Want to make sure they are both set to what you want.

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[Guyfang]

I assume by transfer switch, you mean S6.

Do not idle the set.

If the set will start and the AC voltage meter reads 120 volts, then the main gen is working. What Light in the Dark is trying to get you to answer, is what position is your S6 in, (you wrote 120 single phase) and what position is S8 in? What output terminals did you mesure at? If M5 is reading 120 volts, it gets its signal from S8. S8 gets its signals from S6. So it's good if they are in sync. With the set turned off, exercise the CB1 and S6. Sometimes they need that to work right. Never move S6 while the gen set is running. Also exercise CB3, the 120 volt CB. Then start the set. Turn on the CB1 when the M5 reads 120 volts. Then try measuring first at the input side of CB1. Then the output side of CB1. Then the load terminals. Do the same thing with CB 3. Get anything?

 

[Chainbreaker]

Follow Guyfang's suggestions and as Light in the Dark said get a Kill-A-Watt meter. Just about any hardware store should have them in stock. Once you have power at the convenience outlets plug in the Kill-A-Watt meter (use a short extension cord) and set the meter to read Hertz. When reading Hertz set the throttle using the screw in throttle knob to set it at 61.5 hertz under no load and leave it there ALWAYS. Unit is to be started, run and shut down at this setting. 61.5 Hz allows for some droop as the governor catches up to varying loads placed upon the genset. When on backup power in house I usually start with it at generator to verify the 61.5 Hz setting at generator after 5 min warm-up and then bring in Kill-A-Watt inside to keep tabs on Hz and Voltages from inside house. Kill-A-Watt is a very convenient tool, a must have in my opinion!

 

[Light in the Dark]

Get that puppy back up to full speed, before you do actual harm to the electronics in the set. Do not run it again at less than 'full' throttle.

 

[Light in the Dark]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/P3-International-Kill-A-Watt-EZ-Meter-P4460/202196388 In stock in both W Hartford and Berlin, CT locations

 

[Guyfang]

Question. Are you missing just the hertz meter, or meter and frequency transducer?

 

[mitchsc0tt0]

Where's the transducer go? Right now it looks like just the meter.

Question. Are you missing just the hertz meter, or meter and frequency transducer?

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[Guyfang]

It's labeled A3, inside the control panel.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Be aware that the Transducers on these units are very prone to failure. Even if it has one you probably have a 50/50 chance that it's any good, maybe less than that since someone already removed the Hz gauge. There are aftermarket Hz gauges that are an all-in-one unit with transducer built in. If you use the Google search feature using something like "MEP-002a MEP-003a replacement Hz gauge" here within the "Auxiliary Equipment" section you should gets some hits on what others have used to replace the OEM gauges with digital aftermarket units.

 

[mitchsc0tt0]

Be aware that the Transducers on these units are very prone to failure. Even if it has one you probably have a 50/50 chance that it's any good, maybe less than that since someone already removed the Hz gauge. There are aftermarket Hz gauges that are an all-in-one unit with transducer built in. If you use the Google search feature using something like "MEP-002a MEP-003a replacement Hz gauge" here within the "Auxiliary Equipment" section you should gets some hits on what others have used to replace the OEM gauges with digital aftermarket units.

Do I need to remove the transducer? I found a part in the box that says transducer but it's labeled a3.

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[mitchsc0tt0]

I assume by transfer switch, you mean S6.

Do not idle the set.

If the set will start and the AC voltage meter reads 120 volts, then the main gen is working. What Light in the Dark is trying to get you to answer, is what position is your S6 in, (you wrote 120 single phase) and what position is S8 in? What output terminals did you mesure at? If M5 is reading 120 volts, it gets its signal from S8. S8 gets its signals from S6. So it's good if they are in sync. With the set turned off, exercise the CB1 and S6. Sometimes they need that to work right. Never move S6 while the gen set is running. Also exercise CB3, the 120 volt CB. Then start the set. Turn on the CB1 when the M5 reads 120 volts. Then try measuring first at the input side of CB1. Then the output side of CB1. Then the load terminals. Do the same thing with CB 3. Get anything?

I just put s8 in the position L3 L3/L1 1 it was in a wrong position before I believe is that correct? I should be getting my throttle cable in today or tomorrow as well as the aftermarket gauge which says no transducer needed so will give it another go when I get that in and see what happens.

Thanks for all the help so far guys!

Mitch

Thanks,

Mitch

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[Chainbreaker]

Do I need to remove the transducer? I found a part in the box that says transducer but it's labeled a3.

Yes, A3 is the OEM transducer that the OEM Hz gauge connected to. If you are replacing the Hz gauge with an aftermarket Hz gauge with its own built in (internal) transducer you should follow the mfg's instructions for how to connect it up. You will no longer need the old A3 transducer that is mounted in your control box. You can leave it in place (tie up & insulate any loose wires) or remove it since it won't be needed.

Is the generator unit's schematic placard that is riveted on the top of your Control Box legible? If not, there was someone on eBay selling a "D" size (24"x36") blow-up of the schematic that is very helpful to have on hand for tracing circuits (great for taking inside where its warm & dry with good lighting to review various circuits beforehand). There is also a schematic contained within the TM's. Following wires and comparing them to the schematic is always a good practice when working on wiring harness to insure wires are connected properly.


Edit: You really shouldn't use the schematic on top of the control box (consider it an emergency reference only when nothing else available) due to it being revised and superseded by schematics contained in the TM's.

 

[mitchsc0tt0]

Hey all thanks so much for he help! Got the new gauge in removed the transducer and have solid voltage at both the plugs and lugs.. Now new problem is why is my voltage so high!? I am getting about 160 at the 120 outlet and same on lugs for 120. When I try to adjust voltage using the voltage adjust knob it does nothing at all. All readings where used using a volt meter.

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