M35A3 Wheel problems

[shannondeese]

Ok. How many of you that use A3 wheels have issues with them. I have 4 that no matter what I do they leak at the O-ring. I have changed the O-rings, cleaned, smoothed any bumps or divots, and painted the O-ring seats. One I actually sealed with silicone and a new O-ring, that one held air for a couple days then let loose. Im about to the point of either taking the old wheels off an A2 I have and using them or taking the re-centered MRAP wheels off another deuce I have and using them. I want to drive my A3. Any further suggestions please I'd love to hear them.

 

[shannondeese]

Yep it’s official. I despise A3 wheels. They will be off the truck and on the rifle range by the end of today. That’s about all they’re good for. They sure won’t hold air.

 

[rtadams89]

I have A3 wheels. I did two of them myself (in about 2.25 hours) and those hold air fine. I had the other 4 done at a truck tire place (took 10 hours) and after driving off, one tire lost all it's air over night. Took it back the next day (2.5 more hours) and it was good to go. Since then, I have 2/6 that have developed a slow leak (one needs airs every 1.5 months, the other every 3 months). One was one I did, the other one the truck shop did. So long story short, yes, they seem to leak.

 

[simp5782]

Spray the groove with super 77 adhesive spray. Add your O ring. Then spray it again on top and spray the backside of the face of the outer ring. Cram lots of tire soap on the front side bead so that the air you put into it doesn't blow the adhesive spray out.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Did you have the beadlocks in? The only ones I've had issues with is the ones w/o the bead locks.

 

[shannondeese]

Yes the bead locks are in. I ordered a larger O-ring to try. If that doesn't work Ill make my own with a low durometer and a mold.

 

[Floridianson]

Guess what ever works for you. I use tire soap on the O ring and tire bead plus valve stem and so far no problem. Main thing I look for is trash in the O ring seat or damage to the outer ring. I make sure the tire bead is clean of all rust / dirt and have used sand paper or scuff pad to get it clean and looking good. Valve stem rubber should be good shape. Last thing would be the CTIS good luck with that. The main thing I like doing is not using the distorted nuts to first seat the ring. Guess I am lucky as I have had new wheels and they come with two regular nuts for shipping to hold the ring to the wheel. I use the two regular nut first across from each other and pull the ring down even till good and tight. Then comes the distorted working them in a cross pattern from each other till you left with just the regular nuts. Pull them and replace with distorted. In the past I have used my one inch air impact to get the distorted nuts pulled down. A little oil on the threads and once I start a distorted nut I don't let up till it is seated. Got the new M18 3/4 fuel but have not tried it on wheel repair yet.

 

[gringeltaube]

............ Main thing I look for is trash in the O ring seat or damage to the outer ring. I make sure the tire bead is clean of all rust / dirt and have used sand paper or scuff pad to get it clean and looking good. ......

Exactly that...!

Plus minor dents- or imperfections like rust-pitting - even cuts on the O-ring itself - can be addressed with PU-sealant (typically Sikaflex 221).
And don't forget to inspect the tire beads themselves, especially on older tires...

 

[glcaines]

If you are having this many problems with your A3 wheels, something is very wrong. Either your O-rings are not correct, valve stem gaskets are shot, or improper procedures are being used. I've had my A3 for over 7 years now. I resealed all of my tires when I first received the truck as they all had slow leaks. None of the o-rings were leaking. All leaks were from the valve stem grommets. I replaced all of the valve stem grommets and torqued them to 45 - 60 Ft Lb as specified in the TM. Out of 7 wheels, including the spare, none of them leak air. The TM specifically stated not to use any sealant on either the o-ring or valve stem grommet, so I didn't. My tires all still have the bead locks installed and the CTIS is still installed and working.

 

[gringeltaube]

.....The TM specifically stated not to use any sealant on either the o-ring or valve stem grommet, so I didn't......

LOL... yes, the TMs...

What if I said that over the past 20 years I (systematically and successfully...) have eliminated each one of those valve stem grommets - no matter if civilian or military wheels, and regardless if those grommets were still new or not. ... And that I ONLY use- and rely on- the above mentioned sealant, instead...?
(Same goes for the small O-rings on the HMMWV valve stems, of course.)

... For just one simple reason: with that sealant, there is no way that (salt)water could creep- and stay- in between metal and rubber and start any corrosion, there.

 

[shannondeese]

I finally achieved my goal. The wheels hold air. I used new O-rings. New valve stem cores. New valve stem o-rings. And I sealed it all with ps870-b 1/2 sealant with corrosion inhibitors in the compound. So there should be no further corrosion.

 

[Ajax MD]

So... no range day?

 

[shannondeese]

I still had a range day. It’s easy the range is in one of my pastures.