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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

tobyS

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AjaxMD, The bud style rims have a lot different offset than the combat SS wheels. It is several inches wider, center of tire to center of tire with the combat wheels Vs the bud wheel. Having not measured, I would guess center to center is 6-8" wider (overall) because of rim offset difference alone.

Weight...probably about right. I'll measure one when I brave the -15f.
 

Ajax MD

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AjaxMD, The bud style rims have a lot different offset than the combat SS wheels. It is several inches wider, center of tire to center of tire with the combat wheels Vs the bud wheel. Having not measured, I would guess center to center is 6-8" wider (overall) because of rim offset difference alone.

Weight...probably about right. I'll measure one when I brave the -15f.
Brrr... forget it! Stay inside! I'll measure my spare tire when I get home.
I was going to rent a U-haul trailer and pull it with my Subaru Outback but a co-worker has offered to make the run in his full sized pickup with a trailer. We're just trying to work out an agreeable day.

I'm not ready to take the 5 ton on a trip this long, yet.
 

simp5782

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Toby I would actually prefer 9.00s on a wrecker or just 1100s if you had to even on the front. Everytime i use a wrecker i need to get into somewhere tight and the turning radius of the smaller tires just makes it soo much easier to get in close. Cause contrary to belief. the wrecker boom does not reach that far.
 

tobyS

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Wes, are you saying to use the 9.00 on a five ton wrecker - rears and steer?

Have you ever put an 11.00 on a combat rim for steer tire?
 
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TechnoWeenie

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TobyS-

I have a question about the larger tires. I notice that many, many people upgrade to larger tires. Many people report a higher top speed, but that it takes longer to get there. Assuming a stock engine, isn't there also a power trade off? Don't you lose some power from trying to turn those enormous meats? Does this reduce the hauling or towing capacity? I would also think that there would be some loss of ability when off-roading.

An assembled, 11.00X20 single wheel weighs around 200lbs. I saw mentioned here that a super single with a big tire weighs 500 lbs. (1000 lbs. per axle) That's 200 lbs. extra on a previously dual'd axle so figure 400 lbs. extra on both formerly dual'd axles and 600 lbs. on the steering axle for a total of 1000 extra lbs. to turn.

I love the look but I've always wondered if there was a hidden cost.
I guess it depends on what you want your truck for.

Personally, I think dualled 1200s (G272) is the perfect combo. You have redundant tires, aka built in spares, it has an aggressive off road tread, and are readily available and you can air down pretty low...even use a tube if you want.

The G272s can handle 7500lb per tire, IIRC, which gives you 30K on ONE axle. You could theoretically be fully loaded for off road (10k lbs), lose all 4 inner tires, and still have enough tire to safely travel.
Slightly taller, couple extra mph, stiffer sidewall, better off road traction....

On heavy rigs like a wrecker or a 934, they'd be a no brainer.


EDIT: Forgot to mention, the contact patch is much larger with dual G272 than a single super single. Great for off road... Less great for on road.
 
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fasttruck

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Remember if you increase the circumference of the tire and thus the distance from the spindle to the edge of the tire this has an adverse effect on the performance of the brakes. So now that it will go faster it will not stop faster.
 

simp5782

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Remember if you increase the circumference of the tire and thus the distance from the spindle to the edge of the tire this has an adverse effect on the performance of the brakes. So now that it will go faster it will not stop faster.
This is why jakes are handy!
 

simp5782

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Wes, are you saying to use the 9.00 on a five ton wrecker - rears and steer?

Have you ever put an 11.00 on a combat rim for steer tire?
Yes. I can get in all types of tight places with the small tires and power steering.. Tire capacity doesn't matter much as long as itll hold the weight of the truck. Any heavy lifting is done with the outriggers out so the tires don't take the brunt anyway.
 

BenRoberts

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It was actually warm enough to drive the truck. Guess what I should have done to my 5 ton is install the block heater I've had on the shelf for 2 years
 

simp5782

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Busy week.

Finished putting 1600s on the M786A1. Did a little work on it today. Messed around with the transmission governor but the transmission is toast so that will have to be replaced.

Worked on the 923a2 today. Installed the MCC A/C and heater box. Installed an inverter and charger ports.. Pulled the dash and regrounded all the gauges for better readings. Replaced the drivers side mirror. Will put the condenser unit behind the cab tomorrow and get the AC wrapped up.

Going to try to install a new crane winch cable on the 816 tomorrow and install the block and tackle properly.

As far as my normal truck goes. I installed a new shifter, Air solenoid. I had one finally go bad that i installed in 2016. installed a new jake brake switch up on the throttle.

I am going to fab up a new mount for a pintle hitch and do away with the standard 5 ton hitch and go to what the HEMTT's use with the guidance plate and the air lock on them. I picked up one for cheap money so might as well use it. Going to use some 3/4" plate for the face and underside and 1/2" plate braces and about 3 or 4 passes with some 7018 rods on everything. should work just fine. Looks like the hitch below but it has the air lock solenoid.

I also had some neighbors complain about some crap so i took about 9 tons of scrap iron in the other day and since apparently me having a 9ft tall fence isn't privacy enough for them to not see over or bug me I ended up building a 14ft tall fence that is about 100ft in length... Should keep nosy people from complaining too much.
 

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Ajax MD

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My attempts to rebuild my flaky wiper motor have failed, so I guess I'll purchase a replacement. These are plastic body wiper motors.

As an experiment, I purchased a single mil-spec wiper arm and wiper blade. Absolutely terrible. Useless. The arm just can't produce enough spring tension to press the crummy mil-spec wiper blade to the glass. The wiper just smears and streaks the water over the glass. I'll be upgrading to Anco arms and civvie wiper blades.

I finally found a decent lock-on, commercial, double-headed tire chuck for my BII. Got my 20 ton air/hydraulic jack.
I have most of the cooling system replacement hoses and crushable copper seal for the water pump for when it's warm enough to spend a day or weekend replacing all the belts, hoses and coolant flush.
I also have the little filter that goes in the PT fuel pump.

Yesterday, I finally had the courage to drive the truck into town. My daughter needed a battery for her Miata so we took the 5 ton. It drove perfectly. Plenty of power, engine temperature a constant 178F, shifted smoothly, stopped perfectly, all lights and electrical working correctly. One pleasant surprise- The PCB has stopped acting up and the electrical system turns on with a single flip of the battery switch for the last several days. The truck was actually much easier to drive in town than on my narrow, residential streets. I should have realized that. It was really just like driving a bigger, slower pickup truck.

My daughter is a miniature gearhead. She is fascinated by all the systems on the truck that function with zero electronic controls and that all of the gauges are capillary or cable driven with no electrical sending units (except for maybe the temp guage).

I'm pretty sure I introduced an air bubble into the hot water personnel heater when I partially drained the cooling system a few weeks ago. The petcocks are open but I think it's air-bound. With the blower off, you can feel heat drifting out of the floor register but once you turn the blower on, the heat quickly fades and it just blows cold air. It's as if not nearly enough hot coolant is circulating through the heater core. I'll try to purge it with the vent on top.
 

simp5782

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My attempts to rebuild my flaky wiper motor have failed, so I guess I'll purchase a replacement. These are plastic body wiper motors.

As an experiment, I purchased a single mil-spec wiper arm and wiper blade. Absolutely terrible. Useless. The arm just can't produce enough spring tension to press the crummy mil-spec wiper blade to the glass. The wiper just smears and streaks the water over the glass. I'll be upgrading to Anco arms and civvie wiper blades.

I finally found a decent lock-on, commercial, double-headed tire chuck for my BII. Got my 20 ton air/hydraulic jack.
I have most of the cooling system replacement hoses and crushable copper seal for the water pump for when it's warm enough to spend a day or weekend replacing all the belts, hoses and coolant flush.
I also have the little filter that goes in the PT fuel pump.

Yesterday, I finally had the courage to drive the truck into town. My daughter needed a battery for her Miata so we took the 5 ton. It drove perfectly. Plenty of power, engine temperature a constant 178F, shifted smoothly, stopped perfectly, all lights and electrical working correctly. One pleasant surprise- The PCB has stopped acting up and the electrical system turns on with a single flip of the battery switch for the last several days. The truck was actually much easier to drive in town than on my narrow, residential streets. I should have realized that. It was really just like driving a bigger, slower pickup truck.

My daughter is a miniature gearhead. She is fascinated by all the systems on the truck that function with zero electronic controls and that all of the gauges are capillary or cable driven with no electrical sending units (except for maybe the temp guage).

I'm pretty sure I introduced an air bubble into the hot water personnel heater when I partially drained the cooling system a few weeks ago. The petcocks are open but I think it's air-bound. With the blower off, you can feel heat drifting out of the floor register but once you turn the blower on, the heat quickly fades and it just blows cold air. It's as if not nearly enough hot coolant is circulating through the heater core. I'll try to purge it with the vent on top.
Just get a normal flex rain X wiper blade. They bolt onto the existing arm.
 

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
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The Rain-X blades bolt onto the mil-spec arm? Or the Anco 41- arm?
You can put a bend in the flat part of the military wiper arm if you want more tension. I run the stock blades and arms and this made all the difference with how well they worked.
 

Ajax MD

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You can put a bend in the flat part of the military wiper arm if you want more tension. I run the stock blades and arms and this made all the difference with how well they worked.
I did bend the military arm. It didn't improve things. I was kind of surprised.
 

Ajax MD

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Giddyup!

I managed to clear most of the tree trash from my property today. I could have hauled all of it if I had troop seats/stake sides. The truck was full, volume-wise.
I've wanted to get rid of this crap for AGES. It would have been 3-4 utility trailer loads for sure. All stumps, logs and thicker branches so it was heavy.

The gatekeeper guy at the landfill gave me some heartburn. I had to prove that the truck wasn't commercial and that it wasn't a dump body. The guy knows me so he finally had pity and let me in.

I was pleased with my productivity today...until I realized that this is like, 10% of what Wes gets done in a day. ;)
 

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Csm Davis

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Sorry wrong button
AjaxMd I have had 809 and 939 series trucks and have played with the tires. I personally think you would be better served by running 395's on 939 combat rims on all 6 spots. Little taller and the Goodyear 395's have a mean look and nice ride and will be available for a long time to come.
 
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