bead locks and run flats - how to tell if a tire/wheel already has them?

[LCA078]

After reading through the forum to learn more about super-singling out my truck, I realized I should ensure I have run flats in the front for safety reasons. The rears are another story and don't really need the run flats.

So before I pull the trigger on buying a bunch of individual wheels and tires where the bead locks and run flats have been tossed, how do I know if a mounted wheel/tire combo already has them? I'm assuming if the wheel/tire combo came directly from the military as surplus it has them inside. I'm referring to the 395/85r20's and 16.00r20's that some of the surplus sellers are selling as a wheel/tire combo.

 

[gringeltaube]

Post a picture of what you are intending to buy. The weight of the tire itself is clear. And then someone here will know what that particular wheel weights.
Then tell your seller to put that combo on a scale. That tells us if there is a runflat inside- and even what type.

 

[simp5782]

Large bore valve stems on a LMTV combat wheel with a 395 Michelin XZL has a runflat inside. It's a dead give away with the large bore. Wheel weighs approx 65lbs. Tire weighs approx 240lbs without the runflat. Any Goodyear MVTs will not have runflats at 99 percent likely. Some guntrucks had them though but they are rare to come thru surplus.

A 1600 on a HEMTT wheel if it hasn't been removed will weigh close to 560lbs. Without it in the neighborhood of 455lbs. 1600 weighs 330lbs each. Wheel is 125lbs or so.


Feltz in new Boston will have them on the Caiman/LMTV wheels with runflats

 

[gimpyrobb]

I have free run flat inserts new in the box, come get them or pay shipping.

 

[LCA078]

Post a picture of what you are intending to buy.

I don't have a lead on anything. I'm just really curious how to tell so I can be ready one day when I do buy some wheel/tires. After seeing the pain to pull out a run flat from a tire, I can't imagine installing one would be easy for a home wrench turner like me.

Large bore valve stems on a LMTV combat wheel with a 395 Michelin XZL has a runflat inside. It's a dead give away with the large bore. Any Goodyear MVTs will not have runflats at 99 percent likely.
Feltz in new Boston will have them on the Caiman/LMTV wheels with runflats

Thanks Wes- that helps. Getting up to New Boston is an issue for me in the near future due to schedules but I'll get singled out one days.

I have free run flat inserts new in the box, come get them or pay shipping.

Thanks Gimpy. What kind do you have? To be honest, I don't know much about run flats for these trucks and have no idea how much of a pain in the butt they are to install. I can't wrap my head about how to install a run flat and a bead lock in the same tire. Seems to me it would be one or the other.

 

[tobyS]

What do you mean running them (run flats) for "safety reasons"?

They add a lot of weight and can be hard to balance.

Run flats go from bead to bead..they will not fit with bead-locks. So yes... one or the other.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Some run flats have the beadlock built in, like the ones I have. So it doesn't have to be one or the other. I believe the ones I have are for the lmtv with 395s, but should work in a 1400.

 

[LCA078]

Gimpy- I'm assuming the kind you have are not the rubber donut without any adjustments. I have no idea how to install those at the house.

I also found this thread https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?134960-5-ton-run-flat-wheel with some useful pics. I now see how the one-piece rubber donut is both a bead lock and run flat. Makes since now on how this of run flat works...but no idea on how to install if it's not already stuffed into the tire.

 

[LCA078]

Toby-

My statement about safety is preventing loss of control if I have a blowout on a front steer tire. The runflat should keep the tire from completely collapsing and causing the truck to immediately swerve. I just need it lasting long enough to get it under control and off the road. I'm not worried about the rears since they don't steer the truck and there is a 'spare' good tire on each side to mitigate a catastrophe. I'm new to driving these trucks on the highway and picked up the concern about needing a runflat on the steering after reading through the forums. But I'll defer to the guys who have significant experience with these trucks and can speak to the need/no need for run flats in general.

 

[simp5782]

A rear blowout can cause loss of control as well causing a rear axle shift from the violence of the blowout. Even worse if you have a trailer behind you.

 

[tobyS]

I think you have a fear of blow-out that is unlikely to happen if you use a good quality radial tire like Michelin and Goodyear. Don't use the GY AT-2....they get egg shaped. The extra weight of the RF is not most peoples choice. I've had 14 of the 5 tons and been able to compare. I run 395 Michelins on my M929A2 with normal bead-locks. I recommend no run-flats.

If your neighborhood has a lot of snipers shooting out tires on trucks going down the highway....then you surely need them.

 

[LCA078]

I think you have a fear of blow-out that is unlikely to happen if you use a good quality radial tire like Michelin and Goodyear. Don't use the GY AT-2....they get egg shaped. The extra weight of the RF is not most peoples choice. I've had 14 of the 5 tons and been able to compare. I run 395 Michelins on my M929A2 with normal bead-locks. I recommend no run-flats.
If your neighborhood has a lot of snipers shooting out tires on trucks going down the highway....then you surely need them.

The two factors I'm considering about possibility of having a blowout:
1)Most, if not all of the tires, i'll use are military surplus which means they are past a shelf life or have been used by the military...and usually that's means a hard life. And I probably won't be changing them out unless they fail as I really doubt I'll put enough miles on them to wear them down over the years.
2) My truck will be a ranch truck in cedar country. Who knows how many cedar stabbers I'll run over that may weaken an inner side wall without me knowing about it before I get on the highway for a random trip to clog up the local drive-through.

Am I being paranoid about old tires? Maybe, but really I'm just learning about these trucks and how to have safe fun with them. Luckily for me, I always 'rented' them from the motor pool and dropped them back off ridden hard and put up wet. The motor pool guys then had to un-'f' the damage we did to them. Now it's just my turn to be responsible for the repair parts and bills.

No more snipers for me. Just cedar trees and sticky hill country caliche hillsides to worry about.

 

[gimpyrobb]

It never hurts to err on the side of caution!

Yes the ones ive got is the rubber ones in the pic.

 

[tobyS]

Locus thorns are my nemisis, probably a lot like the cedar you are talking about (Alpine looks wicked). I go out of my way to avoid them.

Running run flats in old tires might be perfect for your application....and darn cheap.

 

[LCA078]

Locus thorns are my nemisis, probably a lot like the cedar you are talking about (Alpine looks wicked). I go out of my way to avoid them.
Running run flats in old tires might be perfect for your application....and darn cheap.

The stuff here in Central Texas Hill Country is technically Ashe Juniper and it's a wicked weed that just happens to be made of wood. The problem with it is that it will sprout from seeds (the wildlife spreads them everywhere after eating the berries) quickly and grow to 1/2" to 2" thick at the base within a season or two. If you just shred them, you leave the little stumps that act like 4" punji sticks the following year when they dry and harden up. And they eat sidewalls for breakfast. You have pull them, grub them, or cut at ground level to avoid tire issues. At least it's not the scrub mesquite I grew up with in south Texas..that stuff is worse with thorns.

I had to look up locus thorns...those things are evil and put to shame anything I run across here. Makes mesquite look like carpet grass!

 

[LCA078]

It never hurts to err on the side of caution! Yes the ones ive got is the rubber ones in the pic.

How does a shade tree mechanic install run flats like those into a tire? Collapsing it with a strap and stuffing it in? Take it to local Firestone Automotive Shop? Waive a magic wand? I can't imagine it's straightforward.

 

[simp5782]

Compress it. And spread the tire. slide it in. It sucks. You can buy the 3 piece bolt together composite types for 45$ on ebay.