MEP-005 Fuel Injection Pump

[M35A2-AZ]

Lee, s
I guess my question is when the motor turns over 1 time does the pump turn over 1 time also.
Or is it geared so it's 2 to 1 or more.
I will not be able to get back to it till Saturday.

Thanks for all your help, I need it.

 

[leedawg]

This is an excellent question. The injection pump actually runs at 1/2 the speed the motor does. So It takes 2 revolutions of the main crank for one revolution of the injection pump. So that is why the dots are important it lets you know which half of the rotation you are on. Most likely if it was assembled right then as you have it right now you are 180 degrees out of time. So if you spin the crank over one more time till it comes back up to 20 degrees before TDC then put the pump on you will be lined up with the compression stroke on the #1 cyl.

So Mine was all messed up so I simply took the valve covers off and rotated the engine over till I saw both valves closed on the #1 cyl and stopped the fly wheel and 20 degrees before TDC. I then put the pump on and lined up the lines in the inspection window on the pump and tightened down the nut that retains the shaft that drives the injection pump to lock it all in place. But since you have not taken your shaft out of the timing gear you could just rotate around 360 degrees and the dots will line up and then you just adjust the line on the inspection window so they line up and you should be good to go. (this is only true if they did not assemble the timing gear and shaft backwards in the first place)

Things to think about.. LIke I said you will know if its right or wrong when you go to start it..... But if you want to make extra sure I highly suggest you remove the valve cover and take a look at what the valves are doing when you are rotating the motor and verify with your own eyes you are on the compression stroke of cyl #1 when coming up on 20 degrees before TDC. Then stop the crank there you will know the motor is where it needs to be then you do whatever you have to do to make the injection pump lines line up in the inspection window.

I know its a lot to get your head around but thats bout the best I can explain it I think...

 

[M35A2-AZ]

I will give it a try this weekend and let you know how it works.
I still have to put the injectors in it.

Thank you!!!!

 

[leedawg]

No worries look forward to hearing the tale...

 

[M35A2-AZ]

Well I got the IP pump and the injectors installed. Got the motor timed and lines put on and tried to start it.
It took just about 10 sec. and she fired right up, a little smoke at first then none at all. Let it run a little to warm up then
I run it up to speed, runs very well.
But the generator side does not work, the gages do not show any voltage or Hz. Off to next problem I guess, anyone have a place to start?

 

[leedawg]

glad to hear the motor is running great. As a side note never idle this thing you run the risk of blowing up the voltage regulator which will then require some fixing to make it work again.

So did you flash the field? If not I suggest you flash the field first. Perhaps you should start a new thread on this though since its off topic from the injection pump. Unit looks good though. Did you end up having to turn the crank over again 360 to get the pump lined up right? or did you put it in with the dots not lined up?

 

[M35A2-AZ]

Lee, thank you for all your help with the motor.

Yes I did have to turn the motor over 360 to get the dots lined up.
I do need to start a thead on the problem.
I did not know about flashing the field, what is that?

Here is the new link on the problem.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...t-putting-out-any-power&p=1305944#post1305944

 

[WILLYSOVERLAND]

I would like to thank everybody from the bottom of my heart. This thread helped me get a generator going that i played with for months. That little glass ball in the check valve was stuck so i replaced it with a coupling and a small nipple. Works fine now. 30 kw

 

[leedawg]

Glad it helped somebody hows your unit run?

Lee

 

[Ray70]

Hello all, so I just acquired a Mep-005A from a local National Guard base and it appears to have this same issue of no fuel coming from the injection pump.
After reading this thread I now understand what to look for initially and how to test everything. My question to those with experience is: I notice that no matter where I put the lever on the outside of the pump ( manual shut off which is supposed to be rearward to run ) after cranking the motor the lever is still in the same place and feels like it is not attached to anything internally. It just flops left or right. If the IP and solenoid are working properly would the lever move in unison with the solenoid and if everything internal is free and not gummed up, should I feel some resistance or anything when moving that lever while the machine is off?
I'm thinking the answer to these questions may help pre-determine if I should expect to find the pump gummed up and sticking when I open it up.

 

[Guyfang]

Ray, does your injector pump look like this? Your throttle cable is hooked to the back side arm of the IP, the front arm is supposed to be wired to the front of the set. The front arm is only used on the precise set.

Edit: Also, I have seen the connection between the two arms come loose. Take out the three screws and unhook the fuel inlet line. remove the top. Pay close attention to the "O" ring. It can fall out, and you might not see it. Check/test the check valve, or soak it in carb cleaner. When you replace everything, once again pay attention to the "O" ring, that it doesn't fall out of the top.

 

[Ray70]

Thank you Guy, yes that's what I have. The lever is not wired up at all, so I'll take care of that. First I'm going to test the solenoid, if that seems ok I'll take off the cover and see if everything inside is moving freely and l'll clean the check valve while I'm in there. Might be a week or so before I get to it, but will let you know how I make out.

 

[Guyfang]

Test the solenoid (L1) in place. if you do not get 24 volts at one terminal and 24 back out to ground, the L1 is suspect. I have seen about 4-5 times the L1 being bad, in almost 30 years of doing this. If you don't get 24 volts, just take a wire from the starter over to the L1. Should start right up. Wire # P80N16 should be the + 24VDC wire.

When the front lever is not in the forward position, then the rear lever can not properly control the IP.

 

[Ray70]

Got it. I was able to check the solenoid last night ( in between dodging thunder storms ) and I'm getting 24V on the 2 wires. So opening up the IP cover is my next step.
Looks like it has tamper resistant torx screws but I have a set somewhere!
Thanks again!

 

[Guyfang]

Is the IP the same color as the engine? Maybe a replacement IP? As far as I can remember, the three screws were not tamper resistant.

 

[Ray70]

The IP looks pretty old, stained and original, but anything is possible. I tried to take it apart after work today but struck out... They aren't tamper resistant Torx, turns out they are Pentalobe security bolts, 5 point ( not 6 point torx ) with center pin, so I just ordered a bit set, so progress is on hold for a few days!

 

[Ray70]

Hello Guy, I received the penta lobe bits today and got the cover off the IP. the fuel solenoid and the control lever all seems to be working fine.
What does not appear to be working correctly is the throttle lever and linkages.
From the inside of the IP, the governor rod assembly and the dampener will move freely by hand, but the large hook shaped piece of steel called the throtle shaft lever in the TM does not move. Also, then adjusting the throttle, the lever that the cable attaches to moves freely, but the other arms next to it with the high and low idle screws does not move, should it?
everything in there looks very clean so I'm wondering if its possible that someone could have turned the high and low idle screws and locked the linkage all the way down at low idle to prevent it from being started after draining all the fluids and removing the filters? I bought this machine from the national guard base and it appears it was functional up until the point that they turned it in.
I'll play around with it more in a couple days, but any explanation as to what levers I should expect to move with the throttle lever would be appreciated.
Thanks!

 

[Ray70]

So tonight I had a few minutes to poke around on youtube and found a video of a guy rebuilding one of these pumps. It looks like for starters I have a throttle shaft problem.
The plates with the high / low idle screws in it as well as the "Hook" inside the pump appear as if they should be moving freely with the throttle lever, but mine seems frozen, only the lever where the throttle cable attaches moves on mine, everything else seems stuck right now.

 

[Guyfang]

So tonight I had a few minutes to poke around on youtube and found a video of a guy rebuilding one of these pumps. It looks like for starters I have a throttle shaft problem.
The plates with the high / low idle screws in it as well as the "Hook" inside the pump appear as if they should be moving freely with the throttle lever, but mine seems frozen, only the lever where the throttle cable attaches moves on mine, everything else seems stuck right now.

Sorry it took so long to get back. The time difference makes it harder, and then I have been out of the net for a few days. Minor OP and then since the doc took some of my butt out, (not much, but enough!) sitting at the computer is "tough" right now.

Yes, that stuff should move freely. Try this. Remove the plate that lets you aline the IP. Remove the cap under the pump, on the end of the actual pump portion. Let the fuel drain out. Put the parts back on. Pour some carb cleaner into the top, where you removed the solenoid. Let it set a few days. Drain, and see if you get some movement on the levers. It could be simply the lacquer build up in the IP

 

[Ray70]

Hi Guy, no worries, hope you are feeling better! I played with it for a few minutes yesterday and found that the throttle linkage was not actually "Frozen" but rather immobilized because the knurled cap ( used for sensitivity adjustment? ) was screwed all the way in. After backing the cap out, the throttle linkage now seems to move correctly.
I don't know for sure if that is supposed to happen of if something else is not right, but backing the cap all the way out ( for now ) has restored throttle movement.
From what I can see everything else appears to be moving freely. I'm going to give it one more look over, then put the cover back on and try it again!
Maybe I'll also watch the video again and see if I can get a good look at the linkage movement inside the IP, while he is explaining things, just to be sure nothing else is wrong.
Feel Better!
Ray.