803a first time (for me) under a load

[k9medic]

I finally got everything running on the 803a so I figured I would hook it up to the house to see what it would do.

After wiring everything up, I started slowly flipping breakers on to put a load on the generator. Eventually I had all of the breakers on to include the Air conditioner which has a RLA of 78. The fan was not spinning as fast as it normally does though.

Here is what I found:

• AC circuit interrupter switch light would not go out and I still have voltage on the lugs. I can hear the relay "click" when I try to open the relay but nothing happens.
• AC load gauge does not seem to work. I had a decent load on the generator and the needle didn't move. The engine didn't bog down either.
• The following gauges don't work - fuel, oil pressure, temperature

For the circuit interrupter, this is a new issue. Yesterday it worked. Today it does not disconnect.

Thoughts?

 

[fa35jsf]

Maybe it’s sticky. Mine wouldn’t connect when I first bought it. Had to hit it with the handle of a screw driver. Then I took it apart and cleaned it.


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[k9medic]

Ugh... Now I am getting a contactor trip overload light at well with no load applied. Just running it comes on.

 

[robson1015]

I would be hesitant to check the machine hooked to the house...maybe get a load bank and work out the bugs...

 

[k9medic]

Yeah, I disconnected it. This is very frustrating!

Just pulled the AC relay. Full of water. SMH.

 

[Chainbreaker]

I would be hesitant to check the machine hooked to the house...maybe get a load bank and work out the bugs...

He can assemble a quick load bank by utilizing a garage space heater like this. Just add an adequate cable and he's in business with two available load/heat settings. Also, these Comfort Zone heaters often go on sale from time-to-time around this time of year if you shop around.

 

[Guyfang]

Yeah, I disconnected it. This is very frustrating!

Just pulled the AC relay. Full of water. SMH.

this is a common fault. Dry it in an oven, set to a VERY low temp. Then blow it out with air. Then bench test it. Apply 24VDC to the coil. Will the applying and removing VDC to the coil circuit open and close the relay? The st the output contacts with a multimeter set to ohm's. Test all three terminals. Then check the circuit for turning on the light. Same way. Activate the coil. If it all works, put it back together and hook it up. Then start the set, and then test it again by starting it up, opening and closing the relay. Light has to come on, turn off and you should get power at the lugs. I would have given you wire numbers, but am not home to look at schematics.

 

[k9medic]

Thank you.

I ran the test on the relay before I pulled it and it failed which is what prompted me to pull it.

When I applied 24v to X I got a “clunk.” When I activated the s5 to open I got a clunk but no changes. When I switched to closed there was no change.

I removed it, sprayed it down with wd-40 and blew it off with a compressor. I’m going to get some context cleaner today and try to salvage it.

If not, a new relay is in my future...


Edited - sprayed relay down and retested. Tested good. Reinstalled - works as advertised.

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