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Jump Starting MEP803A

millerm13

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Potterville, MI
Just wondering if anyone has jump started an 803A with a golf cart? I have a 48v Club Car and wondered if I had a slave connector and cable, could it jump start the generator? Obviously I would only use 3 of the batteries to get 24v.
Just a thought.


I know, keep the batteries charged and there would be no need to jump start it. But thinking of a "Plan C" if you will.
 

Bmxenbrett

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Since the golf cart is 6v batterys wired in series you could run a disconnect to isolate 4 of them and attch jumper cabes there. A Frankenstein style disconnect dosnt break the bank.
 

m32825

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Central Florida
If you hooked a small (mower) engine up to a 24V alternator do you think it would be able to start an 803 without batteries to back it up? My kid is always messing with small engines and I was thinking of trying to make a crash cart for jump starting stuff.

-- Carl
 

Haoleb

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Raymond, Maine
Since the golf cart is 6v batterys wired in series you could run a disconnect to isolate 4 of them and attch jumper cabes there. A Frankenstein style disconnect dosnt break the bank.
Its actually simpler than that. Just hook on your negative and then hook the positive to the appropriate terminal . If you go between the pos and neg of the first battery even if you have 10 of them in series you still only get 6 volts. 2nd battery 12 volts.. etc
 

DieselAddict

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If you hooked a small (mower) engine up to a 24V alternator do you think it would be able to start an 803 without batteries to back it up? My kid is always messing with small engines and I was thinking of trying to make a crash cart for jump starting stuff.
-- Carl
Keep an eye open for a MEP-501. That is exactly what they are. :)

You'll need a pretty hefty alternator if you do a DIY. Normal equipment alternators are in the 35a range and won't be nearly powerful enough.
 

212sparky

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Keep an eye open for a MEP-501. That is exactly what they are. :)

You'll need a pretty hefty alternator if you do a DIY. Normal equipment alternators are in the 35a range and won't be nearly powerful enough.
An si22 alternator is good for 65 amps. That is what I am running on my m35a2 in place of the stock one.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 

doghead

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He meant, to start it(with no battery tied to the alternator of an engine driven alternator).

Reference, post # 7.
 

boatman69

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Unlike an 831a. The alternator needs to be hooked to a battery or it will smoke. That is why battery selector switches tell you not to turn them off while the engine is running and they have make before break contacts.
 

Daybreak

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Howdy,
Let's use facts and the manuals first.

Yes, the MEP-803A can be jumped.
Yes, the MEP-803A can operate without batteries.
Yes, the MEP-803A can be started from a 24v source via the slave port.
Yes, the MEP-803A can be started with a 24v source say to the 2 last leads.
Yes, the MEP-803A can be started with 2 12v batteries and 2 sets of jumper cables connect to the proper leads.

It's all in the manuals.


It is a 24 volt based system.
 

boatman69

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Well thank you! I I haven't looked in the front of the book yet. I did check the wiring of the alternator and mine certainly wouldn't survive that, the way it's hooked up now.
 

gatorbob

Member
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Location
Saint Augustine, FL
Howdy,
Let's use facts and the manuals first.

Yes, the MEP-803A can be jumped.
Yes, the MEP-803A can operate without batteries.
Yes, the MEP-803A can be started from a 24v source via the slave port.
Yes, the MEP-803A can be started with a 24v source say to the 2 last leads.
Yes, the MEP-803A can be started with 2 12v batteries and 2 sets of jumper cables connect to the proper leads.

It's all in the manuals.


It is a 24 volt based system.
I wanted to circle back to this thread I started. I had to get a 12V/24V jump starter for another vehicle that needed more CCA @ 12V than a regular 12V jump starter could provide. I can move a cable and the jump starter connects the (2) internal 12V batteries in parallel or in series.

My MEP-803A batteries were dead today. I put the positive clamp on the starter positive terminal and negative on a nearby metal ground point. (The starter's ground terminal was too crowded for my clamps to fit directly).

My MEP is wired so that the two last leads are on opposite sides of the generator. The negative terminal on the starter has a cable that goes under the engine to the other side. I could not connect with that method.

I have the JNC-1224. It was expensive but I needed it for a bus/motorhome anyway.
 

gatorbob

Member
120
21
18
Location
Saint Augustine, FL
Just had to figure out how to jump mine. Both batteries were right at 12v but weak. I connected my truck to one battery and let it charge a few minutes then moved the cables to the other battery. On generator power as I type.
Glad to hear that works. Hope your power comes back soon and all is well if you're experiencing the storm here in FL.
 

Coug

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Olympia/WA
I wanted to circle back to this thread I started. I had to get a 12V/24V jump starter for another vehicle that needed more CCA @ 12V than a regular 12V jump starter could provide. I can move a cable and the jump starter connects the (2) internal 12V batteries in parallel or in series.

My MEP-803A batteries were dead today. I put the positive clamp on the starter positive terminal and negative on a nearby metal ground point. (The starter's ground terminal was too crowded for my clamps to fit directly).

My MEP is wired so that the two last leads are on opposite sides of the generator. The negative terminal on the starter has a cable that goes under the engine to the other side. I could not connect with that method.

I have the JNC-1224. It was expensive but I needed it for a bus/motorhome anyway.
I just went with 2 large lithium 12V jump starters. I can wire one to each battery, and they are a heck of a lot lighter together than the 40 lbs of the JNC1224. (NO.CO GB150s. On Black Friday they had them for $170ish, normally $350ish.)

I've had issues with the lead acid battery packs in the past, usually the battery failing after a dozen uses or less. I have yet to tear apart one of those packs and find anything other than a cheap, Chinese made 12V 15-18 amp hour AGM lead acid battery that was never designed for the very high amperage draw of starting an engine. (this battery type is usually advertised as a deep cycle battery, not a starting battery)

Shouldn't be any issues with the negative clamp on a good ground point, as everything in these is grounded together anyway. The positive lead on either end of the positive cable that goes to the starter (so it's on the 24V spot anyway) is what I would do as well.
 

gatorbob

Member
120
21
18
Location
Saint Augustine, FL
I just went with 2 large lithium 12V jump starters. I can wire one to each battery, and they are a heck of a lot lighter together than the 40 lbs of the JNC1224. (NO.CO GB150s. On Black Friday they had them for $170ish, normally $350ish.)

I've had issues with the lead acid battery packs in the past, usually the battery failing after a dozen uses or less. I have yet to tear apart one of those packs and find anything other than a cheap, Chinese made 12V 15-18 amp hour AGM lead acid battery that was never designed for the very high amperage draw of starting an engine. (this battery type is usually advertised as a deep cycle battery, not a starting battery)

Shouldn't be any issues with the negative clamp on a good ground point, as everything in these is grounded together anyway. The positive lead on either end of the positive cable that goes to the starter (so it's on the 24V spot anyway) is what I would do as well.
That NOCO GB150 should have worked well for my other starting needs with 4,000A. I have never had any lead acid jump starter last very long either. Are the lithium batteries more reliable in the long term? I have a small lithium with a capacitor for my car but have never had to use it so far.
 
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