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Artisan's M916

Artisan

Well-known member
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Location
CDA Idaho
I saw the fuel lines to the rear head, but are there any to the front of the 1st head?
Hmmm, I did not know that was a part of things...
I am not sure if this link will work for you or not but here are
all the pics... Please tell me what you see, much appraciated.
If there is an upgrade like that and a Cummins Part # I would
like to learn...

 

Hammer

Well-known member
1,479
387
83
Location
Winlock, WA
Yeah, there are the pressure fuel lines that come off the injection pump and go to the back of the rear head.
This setup means that fuel goes from the rear of the block all the way forward, and it also means the front cylinders will have slightly less pressure.
The duel fuel line basically splits the fuel line coming off the injection pump and runs another to the front of the 1st head, which helps balance the fuel supply and pressure throughout both heads.

If you are keeping stock power, this isn't that big of a deal. If you are turning the power up, then it definitely is worth the effort.
Most people notice a slightly smoother idle when putting the duel line kit on.
Searching on duel fuel line big cam cummins will get you a number of results and some good reading.




This kit is 1/4", personally I would match the existing line size already on the motor.

You only really need to make a T off the injection pump and run one line forward.
The single return line is just fine, no need to add another of those.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Yeah, there are the pressure fuel lines that come off the injection pump and go to the back of the rear head.
This setup means that fuel goes from the rear of the block all the way forward, and it also means the front cylinders will have slightly less pressure.
The duel fuel line basically splits the fuel line coming off the injection pump and runs another to the front of the 1st head, which helps balance the fuel supply and pressure throughout both heads.

If you are keeping stock power, this isn't that big of a deal. If you are turning the power up, then it definitely is worth the effort.
Most people notice a slightly smoother idle when putting the duel line kit on.
Searching on duel fuel line big cam cummins will get you a number of results and some good reading.




This kit is 1/4", personally I would match the existing line size already on the motor.

You only really need to make a T off the injection pump and run one line forward.
The single return line is just fine, no need to add another of those.
THANK YOU for the 411! If Will is correct and if there really is a warranty I will probably
leave it as is for a while... So excited. My existing motor is a BC1, I am sure there will
be a few things to tweek / adjust some plumbing. I will swap in my upgraded charging
system, after that I "think" things will simply bolt up.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
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63
Location
CDA Idaho
Guys has anyone done an engine swap in an M916?
Can I disco the rear driveshaft off the 7155 trans and put
trans on a trans dolly and simply pull it rearwards and NOT
have to lower the trans?
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
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Location
Mason, TN
Dual fuel feeds means one to the front of the head. One to the rear of the head. The 2 lines on the rear are the single feed line and the single return line.


You are going to want some super strong sealant for between the bellhousing for the 7155 and the engine block. The BC3 oil pan doesnt have the same amount of bolts for the oil pan that are horizontal mounting for the oil pan thru the bellhousing as the BC1 does. So you are missing about 6 lower bellhousing support bolts for the 3006637 bellhousing that works for the 7155 transmission. You will have to swap that off your other setup for sure.

Pull the transmission with the engine. Those 130 splines on the front clutch on the transmission isn't any fun to get mated back to the engine. Especially on the ground
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Dual fuel feeds means one to the front of the head. One to the rear of the head. The 2 lines on the rear are the single feed line and the single return line.


You are going to want some super strong sealant for between the bellhousing for the 7155 and the engine block. The BC3 oil pan doesnt have the same amount of bolts for the oil pan that are horizontal mounting for the oil pan thru the bellhousing as the BC1 does. So you are missing about 6 lower bellhousing support bolts for the 3006637 bellhousing that works for the 7155 transmission. You will have to swap that off your other setup for sure.

Pull the transmission with the engine. Those 130 splines on the front clutch on the transmission isn't any fun to get mated back to the engine. Especially on the ground
Wes you sound like a "been there done that" kinda guy! HA!
Hope your doing well Wes. So what kind of "Sealant do you suggest?"
 

Artisan

Well-known member
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Location
CDA Idaho
Threebond 1215
Thank You Wes...

Looks like TB1215 has a higher temp rating
than Permatex Ultra Black...

TB1215 Temperature Range of -60 to 250ºC

Ultra Black
Continuous, C (F) -54 to 204 (-65 to 400)
Intermittent, C (F) -54 to 260 (-65 to 500)

TWO Q'S

So use between the engine and bell housing AND between the
bell housing and trans ?

How many tubes do I need? (Spendy stuff)
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
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Location
Mason, TN
Thank You Wes...

Looks like TB1215 has a higher temp rating
than Permatex Ultra Black...

TB1215 Temperature Range of -60 to 250ºC

Ultra Black
Continuous, C (F) -54 to 204 (-65 to 400)
Intermittent, C (F) -54 to 260 (-65 to 500)

TWO Q'S

So use between the engine and bell housing AND between the
bell housing and trans ?

How many tubes do I need? (Spendy stuff)
Just one tube. Use it between the block and the bellhousing.

You want to use ultra black/grey on the starter face and spacer seal and on transmission to bellhousing seal. Along with a new O ring for the transmission to bellhousing
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Just one tube. Use it between the block and the bellhousing.

You want to use ultra black/grey on the starter face and spacer seal and on transmission to bellhousing seal. Along with a new O ring for the transmission to bellhousing
Wes using your above info "3006637 bellhousing " if I call Cummins and
give them "3006637 bellhousing " and ask for O RING is that correct
or by any chance do you have the PN for the O Ring?
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
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9,248
113
Location
Mason, TN
Wes using your above info "3006637 bellhousing " if I call Cummins and
give them "3006637 bellhousing " and ask for O RING is that correct
or by any chance do you have the PN for the O Ring?
Transmission o ring is a CAT # 2D6507

Rear crankshaft O ring is 137075

Both are cheap on ebay
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
OK were ready... I need help doing this engine swap.
I ask for nothing for free. Does anyone in the Los Angeles
area know any Heavy Mobile Mechanics? Working conditions
are great... Engine is BRAND NEW...
 

Abrant23

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Charleston, SC
2C6D978C-FF94-4C3B-ACEE-26DF20B40D74.jpeg
OK were ready... I need help doing this engine swap.
I ask for nothing for free. Does anyone in the Los Angeles
area know any Heavy Mobile Mechanics? Working conditions
are great... Engine is BRAND NEW...
Roll up ya sleeves and give it a whirl!

If you were a little closer to Charleston SC I’d be happy to jerk that thing out for ya. Good luck and post some pics!

(I just got done rebuilding the engine in our Volvo a25c. Ole girl had 25,000 hours on her!)
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
View attachment 789764
Roll up ya sleeves and give it a whirl!

If you were a little closer to Charleston SC I’d be happy to jerk that thing out for ya. Good luck and post some pics!

(I just got done rebuilding the engine in our Volvo a25c. Ole girl had 25,000 hours on her!)
Alas in my younger years it would be done already. I have some real issues w/ my
body and bro, alls I can tell you is thank you lucky stars you can work more then
15 minutes w/o your body saying NO! I was diagnoised w/ C.I.D.P. some years
ago, it is like MS. Getting dressed is a chore anymore... My skillz are still there,
my bady says NO WAY IDIOT... It is HUMBLING. I have to pay people to do
what I used to do in 1/2 the time...
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,815
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Location
Alexandria, VA
Alas in my younger years it would be done already. I have some real issues w/ my
body and bro, alls I can tell you is thank you lucky stars you can work more then
15 minutes w/o your body saying NO! I was diagnoised w/ C.I.D.P. some years
ago, it is like MS. Getting dressed is a chore anymore... My skillz are still there,
my bady says NO WAY IDIOT... It is HUMBLING.
I have to pay people to do
what I used to do in 1/2 the time...

Must be humbling for sure, but humility is not an all bad thing because you ARE still doing. Good for that!

We can count our blessings where we can, and I will pray for you, Artisan! Please pray for me.

Amen
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
So, Dam the torpedos, screw the crybabies that DEMAND I bring the truck to them to do this engine swap.
I have been packing my tools and traveling to peoples homes for a lifetime. My disgust is massive.
I will do it, I will do it alone if need be and I PRAY I don't get hurt. Dropping the tranny and refiitting it is my
biggest worry. Effin scary that is. Off we go...
 

Attachments

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
I think I will remount the tranny cooler somewhere else. It just does not seem right to me, it is WAYYY higher
then the tranny and hoses are REALLY long. I am not hauling tanks too... Perhaps under the truck and MUCH
closer to the tranny would be a much better posisition for it... Radiator is about ready to come out. I got some
lifting eyes to lift that monster with, pull fan and and then we are OPEN.
 
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