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Artisan's M916

Artisan

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CDA Idaho
Ok, so you figured out how to rotate the engine but have you determined if it is safe to do so? What's with the red tag warning against this?
I have not got a resolve on that on the new engine.
GOOD EYE! Your paying attention!
I "ass"ume it means DO NOT ROTATE UNLESS YOU ARE READY
TO INSTALL so as to keep the preservative where it was put.
BUT, I believe I am looking at a DYNO report and that engine
was tested for something like 30.43 minutes....
 

Artisan

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CDA Idaho
I remember in the 5 Ton thread someone found the battery cables will
short out w/ wear on as they were run from the factory over the
Tranny I think it was. SAME DEAL here. I took some 7/8" ID Dishwasher
heavy rubber hose, slit it length wise and put it over my Battery cables
like convoluted tubing for added protection.
 

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silverstate55

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That’s why I usually keep a bin full of old hoses; they make great protective wraps for cables, wires, and other hoses. Clean them as best as I can and save them for future re-use.

Looking good Brad, keep up the great work!
 

Artisan

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CDA Idaho
One thing at a time...take a break, get up and do another.... ha~!
The TM says I am supposed to have 3 Assistants... Righttt.........
The new engine is out of the box and staged. Just making safe cribbing
and getting proper rigging is a job in and of itself! Scary stuff! Gotta be safe.
I threw in a KATS Block Heater while it was easy to get at. WARNING, if
you put in a KATS Block heater UNDERSTAND if the bolts do not align,
flip the heater 180 degrees! (Insert pizzed off look here) Starters on both engines
have been pulled. I am now ready to swap bell housings.
I have to align the old bell housing on the new motor to within
.008" on center to crank. ( 8 Thousandths of an inch ) .
 

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Artisan

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Location
CDA Idaho
Obviously I need my own forklift.
It's like a glass bead blaster, once you have it, you can't
understand how you got along w/o it... She's an old Wiggins, 4 banger
Ford, towable, pintle, goes "JUST" high enough for this job,
I mean JUST! It has a clutch, forward and reverse stick and
another for the 4 speed, pattern is backwards cause tranny is
backwards to the driver. Goes up and down and tilts forward
and back AND side shifts left and right. Paid 2K, just had updraft
carb rebuilt, smokes a bit, but I got her where you just touch the
key and putt putt putt she goes...
 

Artisan

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CDA Idaho
BIG CAM TO CAT 7155 FLYWHEEL HOUSING O-RINGS (11)

Any Part Number Wizards that can help please?

Hit a lil snag... In pulling the Flywheel Housing I find there are 11 (eleven)
o-rings the size of a quarter that I need. I will be dipped in it if I can find
these O-ring P/N's. I have called CAT and CUMMINS. I "think" the flywheel
housing P/N is 3016637 (So Cummins tells me) . I am looking in -20 , -34 , -24P
to no avail, but, I could be blind. I have the large (5"-6") crank O-ring and I
have the very large 20" or so o-ring. I need these 11 !
 

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Artisan

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Location
CDA Idaho
So... I am hitting roadblocks on identifying these sensors.
I got LUCKY today and was clicking around and found
some paperwork on the 7155 tranny heater and I found
a pic of all the sensors (3) on the drivers side of the Big Cam 1
engine.

CAN ANYONE TRANSLATE / CROSS REFERENCE THESE P/N's please?

I want to replace them and understand what they are for !

NOTE; I believe the "1977" prefix should be dropped...

1977-5965573 SENDING UNIT
1977-MB308B20000 SWITCH, LOW OIL
1977-MA308-20009

( I assume the MB308B20000 SWITCH, LOW OIL is a 15 pound low oil pressure switch)

Here are a few pics... I want to KNOW what each one if for, it's
replacement p/n and WHAT it is for.

If anyone knows any Parts Guru's can you please forward this?

EDIT; I hope if anyone finds all this 411 usefull they appreciate it!
It took a LOT to get those silly PN's converted into something
a guy could go look for them anew if necessary! See my added pic
w/ Faria and SW and NSN #'s...
 

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Last edited:

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
So... I am hitting roadblocks on identifying these sensors.
I got LUCKY today and was clicking around and found
some paperwork on the 7155 tranny heater and I found
a pic of all the sensors (3) on the drivers side of the Big Cam 1
engine.

CAN ANYONE TRANSLATE / CROSS REFERENCE THESE P/N's please?

I want to replace them and understand what they are for !

NOTE; I believe the "1977" prefix should be dropped...

1977-5965573 SENDING UNIT
1977-MB308B20000 SWITCH, LOW OIL
1977-MA308-20009

( I assume the MB308B20000 SWITCH, LOW OIL is a 15 pound low oil pressure switch)

Here are a few pics... I want to KNOW what each one if for, it's
replacement p/n and WHAT it is for.

If anyone knows any Parts Guru's can you please forward this?
So... I am hitting roadblocks on identifying these sensors.
I got LUCKY today and was clicking around and found
some paperwork on the 7155 tranny heater and I found
a pic of all the sensors (3) on the drivers side of the Big Cam 1
engine.

CAN ANYONE TRANSLATE / CROSS REFERENCE THESE P/N's please?

I want to replace them and understand what they are for !

NOTE; I believe the "1977" prefix should be dropped...

1977-5965573 SENDING UNIT
1977-MB308B20000 SWITCH, LOW OIL
1977-MA308-20009

( I assume the MB308B20000 SWITCH, LOW OIL is a 15 pound low oil pressure switch)

Here are a few pics... I want to KNOW what each one if for, it's
replacement p/n and WHAT it is for.

If anyone knows any Parts Guru's can you please forward this?

POSSIBLE RESOLVE;

M-B308B-20000
MB308B20000
5930-01-095-6193
Switch Pressure Faria PS1021

MA308-20009
5930-01-100-7652
Switch Pressure Faria PS4089

5965573
5930-01-107-6474
(011076474) Switch, Pressure https://www.wbparts.com/rfq/5930-01-107-6474.html
(old 411J) Sender Stewart Warner P/N 279A

THAT was difficult! I hope I am right...(think so) BUT, the new BC3 came w/ what
I believe to be the oil pressure sending unit so it stays, the two Faria units I need
to add to the new BC3
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
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Brad, you should groom the sensors from the old to new engine. The sensors need to match your gauges. They will read incorrectly if they don't.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
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227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Brad, you should groom the sensors from the old to new engine. The sensors need to match your gauges. They will read incorrectly if they don't.
Yes Will... My thots exactly but I "think" I need to keep the Oil Pressure sensor
that came w/ the BC... I "think" the BC3 runs less Oil Pressure then the Bc1?

My deal is, I want to REPLACE those sensors! So I need Pn's I think I have it
handled.

Prolly gonna do the rear main housing / seal swap in the AM, call and stop
by and look! It's coming along nicely... The new engine is GEORGEOUS!
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Trying to keep things as bulletproof as possible.
The power steering return and cooler lines were
compromised. Tiny little gouge hole I found in one
so off to replace. Found a company named
AirCraft Spruce & picked up some quality hose.
THEY HAVE EVERYTHING HOSE!
Spendy but TOUGH... That return line connection
at the pump is BURIED up in there, I want to put
it together once and have it LAST!

 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Monrovia, Ca.
If gauges worked before, no reason to change them. The switches/sensors from the old engine will be fine in the new engine, the gauges will read correctly.....well, as correct as military gauges read. Swap old to new engine parts.
 
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Artisan

Well-known member
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227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
So all the sensors on the drivers side on the BC1 are 1/8" NPT .
The rear 5- female tapped holes in the block on the BC1 are 1/8" NPT.
The rear 4- female tapped holes in the block on the BC3 are 1/8" NPT.
The 5th from the rear on the BC3 is a -6 ORB PLUG! Dayim! '

I found a -6 male ORB x 1/8" NPT male adaptor I just pray it is OK to use
that port! If I have to move a sensor I am cutting a NICE wireing harness!

Any input?
 

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Artisan

Well-known member
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227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Fortunate I am to have SS members giving me much needed guidence
here and there. So appreciative I am "Wes" and "Will" and "Mike" and
others!

Will just stopped by and loaded me up w/ years of experience stuff!
The second he left I sat down and tried to type up everything he
told me! WHAT DID I FORGET WILL! HA!

1- Use Permatex Ultra Black in front of block alternator bolt hole so as to stop
potential oil leakage.

2- Swap over crossover tube (New is a POS sheetmetal)

3- Swap over copper heater tube top. (Loose new POS rubber)

4- Swap over copper heater tube bottom. (Bolt in no alteration needed)
(Can not use plain end copper, must have ridge!)

5-Put on rear main cover on new BC3 w/ white insert hanging out and
then remove insert and let seal center on crank
then bolt down and torque bolts.

6- Make bracket to get tach cable of engine where it was melting.

7- Use a belt gauge to set tightness of V-Belts.

8- Swap over all sensors so all gauges work ok.

9- Use lube on big ORING on rear main cover.

10- Swap over lifting bracket, do NOT use front that I bent!

11- Consider getting a come-a-long for reinstalling to lift
front or rear if necessary.

12- Look at possibly getting an electric fan actuator.

13- Get Cummins Anti Freeze BLUE!

14- Use Valvoline Oil!

15- Use Fleetguard Filters! (Look at micro filters perhaps?)

16- There is a theorem to calc v-belt sizes
Center to Center dim, Pulley dims Radius something?

17- Balancer on old engine is leaking! "Viscous"

18- There is a special wrench for starter bolts

19- Remove that govenor brass vent 90 on new engine, it will rub a hole in cooler!

20- Tighten all hose clamps after running 1st time.

21- Use anti sleeze on starter bolts.

22- Flush Heater core b4 new Anti-Freeze. !
 

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Artisan

Well-known member
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227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
So today we noticed the Exhaust Port 90 degree fitting on the
BENDIX 275707 D-2 Governor. It appears as though Cummins RECON
group screwed into the exhaust port an “assumed”
1/8” MNPT X 1/8” FNPT brass 90 degree fitting as you see in my enclosed
picture. The problem is, it is touching the AfterCooler that gets HOT
and the compressor moves a bit (vibrations) so it will eventually wear
a hole into the After Cooler.

I need a resolve…

How can I stay DOT compliant and remedy this?

My thought was to pull the governor and discard that existing
1/8” MNPT X 1/8” FNPT brass 90 and see if I can FIND an
1/8” MNPT X 1/16” barbed brass 90 so-as hopefully will give me a tad more
clearance and then actually put a short piece of rubber tubing
on the barb pointing down.

I DO NOT WANT FUTURE PRESSURE WASHINGS TO
PUMP WATER INTO THE GOVENOR EXHAUST PORT right?

So THAT is why I suggest simply throwing away the
1/8” MNPT X 1/8” FNPT brass 90 is ill advised.

Any input gents?
 

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WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
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This is what you need, If it were me, I would turn the governor around to match the way it sits on the old engine. Call if you need help, it takes 5 mins.


If you go to BPS truck parts in Irwindale, they probably have it. OR, leave it open when you turn the governor around, the port will be facing down and no issue of water into the port.

Again, call me if you have issues.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
This is what you need, If it were me, I would turn the governor around to match the way it sits on the old engine. Call if you need help, it takes 5 mins.


If you go to BPS truck parts in Irwindale, they probably have it. OR, leave it open when you turn the governor around, the port will be facing down and no issue of water into the port.

Again, call me if you have issues.
Crap! I listed 22 line items, tried to remember it all! Roger THIS!
I will plumb it up...
 
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