P400 and Super 60 Turbo

[Navydoc]

Buddy of mine did some huge upgrades to his M1008 (AC install, P400, 4l80, NP205, Super 60 Turbo, and much more). He made a YouTube channel to document it and provide information for others looking to pursue similar projects. It's here for anyone interested. He takes no money from anyone.

Proven Theory

Chevy Truck 6.5 diesel P400 Turbo Posterity

www.youtube.com

 

[cruzer747]

from what I could watch that looks like an amazing truck but I have a tip to your buddy, he is making videos for other guys. From what I could watch the info is good but the delivery seems like he is trying to sweet talk a teenage girl. I couldn't make it through more than two minutes even skipping around.

I am sure his wife is filming so the delivery may feel more natural but again his audience is going to be mostly men. I would love to see his videos if he could detach from the current mode of delivery.

 

[OldIronsides]

Yeah man. It is hard to make a video both entertaining and technical. Need to bump up my editing skills. Maybe cruzer747 would learn something from the AC Charge video, the making custom PTFE AN lines, wiring in harnesses, making custom AC lines, making custom battery cables.

I'm saying Cruzer, what you want? I got need to make battery cables for 2nd battery in parallel with isolator solenoid, and weld my exhaust back from the downpipe. I'll make you a video. What is helpful?

"If you die with your eyes open, you deserved it."

 

[cruzer747]

Yeah man. It is hard to make a video both entertaining and technical.

I'm saying Cruzer, what you want? I got need to make battery cables for 2nd battery in parallel with isolator solenoid, and weld my exhaust back from the downpipe. I'll make you a video. What is helpful?

I hope I did not come of as negative. From what I saw you are extremely sharp and have amazing skills!

For myself, technical IS entertaining. No need to butter it up. As far as what would be helpful to me specifically? Hell, I have so many lacking areas of knowledge and I do hunt youtube for answers here and there. I am a carpenter by trade and have dabbled with cars as a hobby for the last 20-something years for fun and necessity. I will happily watch the most monotone boring ass guy drone on about the exact or similar project I am working on or having problems with. I don't usually follow builders for entertainment BUT every once in a while I come across ZIP TIES N BIAS PLIES channel and watch a couple videos for a laugh.

If you are trying to share knowledge of how to do something, that is all I need to watch a video. If I were running some custom AC etc I probably would watch how you did yours. I just wanted to share my feeling when watching your videos, I will bet many of the guys here are drier than the cornbread from last thanksgiving and butter just aint gunna do it

Things I have on the horizon that I have questions about but haven't had the time to do real homework:
Air bags and compressor... Self supporting awning for M1010... 2nd fuel tank with one filler (maybe w/ dual manual transfer pumps?)... How do I afford a home in California yet still have time to enjoy and invest in hobbies while still having time for loved ones and not feeling like just another rat in the race at the end of the week...

I was not sure if you were saying that you have some battery cable wiring coming up and wanted to pick my and other peoples brains here but that sounds interesting. I don't want to make any videos as I am sure I would sound like a bumbling idiot and tbh I could in no way monetarily afford the time to do so at the moment but I am happy to help you and others here any other way when I can.

 

[OldIronsides]

Cruzer747

Hey man, I liked your reply and I feel it makes me step up my game. I shot another video today just for you on making battery cables. I tinkered with using some software editing. It is really hard doing stuff and having camera capture correctly. I jacked up my first battery terminal. You can laugh watching that. The video is uploaded to you tube. Check it out, tell me what you think. Here is an attempt at a You tube link of the video dedicated and made for you.

 

[cruzer747]

This was an entirely different feel and still had great information! It gave me some questions about my setup in regards to how my batteries are run.

Also doing my 2/0 cables I made the same first mistake as you! After doing them a few times I have a different method that works for me that you might want to try (I will describe it here for constructive criticism purposes as I do not know if there are any right and wrongs here).

MAPP gas heats up just fine but the final "dip" was pretty dicey for me. I did not have any solder plugs so I was roll feeding, fluxed both like you, cut the cable jacket about 1/8" beyond lug (for additional solder access), and found for me it was more controllable to go with OA w/#0 or #1 tip and reach temp and then go slowly down into it as opposed to fast, then when bottomed out try and adjust the temp just right to refill lug but restrict the cable from wicking the solder too high. The OA is much easier for me to keep the heat away from the jacket. One additional step I did was after all was said and done to hammer crimp with sledge and punch.

So as far as my questions, curious about the necessity of isolating a parallel battery. My m1010 cam with a mostly complete 24v delete done. Both batteries are straight parallel. My later model diesel trucks are also uninterrupted parallel. As long as the 2nd battery stays on during cranking I guess that is fine. Did GM opt to not do this out of a cost savings measure? I vaguely remember reading into this and hearing that in practice as long as you buy the same batteries at the same time then they stay pretty well synched as far as wear and tear. By isolating one you might be wearing out one more than the other and creating a bigger headache than it saves?

Again, I would watch your new style video all day long for doing research on my coming projects, thanks for the video!

 

[Sharecropper]

Hey Arden - in my opinion, your last video (posted above) was indeed better-produced and delivered more effectively than your earlier videos. I certainly believe you are on the Right Track.

However in a spirit to assist you further, I looked back through my links to instructional videos to find one which you might find helpful going forward. I came across a video I had saved which was produced several years ago by the Chrysler Corporation pertaining to their new Turbo Encabulator transmission. The presenters in this video are objective and to-the-point, and explain everything with an uncanny clarity which allows the viewer to understand fully the workings of the transmission. I hope you enjoy.

 

[OldIronsides]

Cruzer747,

Thanks for sharing, much of the information in your post was new to me, and therefore educational. Great question about secondary batter isolation. Let me try to explain the concept with more clarity, and I will shoot another video this weekend to capture application. My plan is to wire a high quality/high amp rated solenoid into the secondary battery ground circuit. The solenoid will only close the ground circuit to the secondary battery when receiving 12 volts. The intention is when keyed ignition is off, secondary battery is not part of circuit (truck off). As soon as the driver turns the key to "run", secondary battery is introduced into circuit for cranking starter. While engine running, secondary battery receiving alternator charge. Does that make sense? It is a proven design, but I am making a variation by putting the isolator solenoid on the ground side. Of coursre another downside is for winch to work, have to have key in "run" position. Another variation of this design is to have manual toggle switch in cab to toggle secondary battery "in" or "out". But leaves room for operator error in forgetting.

Hope that adds some clarity.

 

[cruzer747]

Cruzer747,

Thanks for sharing, much of the information in your post was new to me, and therefore educational. Great question about secondary batter isolation. Let me try to explain the concept with more clarity, and I will shoot another video this weekend to capture application. My plan is to wire a high quality/high amp rated solenoid into the secondary battery ground circuit. The solenoid will only close the ground circuit to the secondary battery when receiving 12 volts. The intention is when keyed ignition is off, secondary battery is not part of circuit (truck off). As soon as the driver turns the key to "run", secondary battery is introduced into circuit for cranking starter. While engine running, secondary battery receiving alternator charge. Does that make sense? It is a proven design, but I am making a variation by putting the isolator solenoid on the ground side. Of coursre another downside is for winch to work, have to have key in "run" position. Another variation of this design is to have manual toggle switch in cab to toggle secondary battery "in" or "out". But leaves room for operator error in forgetting.

Hope that adds some clarity.

I understand how you are wiring it, just not sure it is healthy for the batteries. For instance, you like to run the radio/headlights etc for a while while the truck is off, now the batteries are out of sync. You go to start it and you will have the spare battery doing more of the heavy lifting vs the other, maybe not by much but I would worry over time it will chew up the batteries. I wish I could find the thread I read on this moons ago.

As far as how the winch is wired, having a manual switch is safer as in the event of an accident. Bumper is pushed in prettyy good but driveable. So you get back on the road and your crumpled bumper had nicked the hot lead to the winch, slowly heating batery jacket until it lights and catches the engine compartment on fire. Sounds crazy but it has happened. Probably overthinking it but just stating my logic behind preferring a manual switch.

I forget if your truck is still 24v or not but if it is 12v why do you want to isolate one of the starting batteries?

 

[chevymike]

I did what the OP is looking to do on my first M1010. I converted the truck to 12 volt only and wanted to keep the two isolated when the truck was off, so if one battery died (bad cell) it would not suck both batteries down. I used a Blue Sea solenoid (500 amp continuous, 2000 surge). It worked great and no issues. I never had anything to run in the truck that would be done with the engine off so that was no worry.

I should work for the same Idea on the stock 24 volt.

 

[OldIronsides]

12 Volts. I am isolating one of the batteries for when the truck is stationary with key in the "off" position. To preserve one battery for starting when running accessories in keyed "off" position and eliminate chase charging. It is all theory, we will see if it works in application.

 

[cruzer747]

easy enough to mend if it doesn't work and so is my setup... I am pretty sure either way the downsides are negligible. It could save you from getting stranded as well.... being that I have a ton of solar and a dedicated leisure(3rd) battery I think of my main pair of batteries as a single unit. It is absolutely isolated when the truck is off, unless I want otherwise

 

[Sharecropper]

12 Volts. I am isolating one of the batteries for when the truck is stationary with key in the "off" position. To preserve one battery for starting when running accessories in keyed "off" position and eliminate chase charging. It is all theory, we will see if it works in application.

PM sent.