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CTIS controller leaking

sassriverrat

Member
103
8
18
Location
Georgetown, MD
It seems my pneumatic valves in the cab may be leaking. The machine, sending its “test” shot of air, immediately blows it out a threaded 3/8” or 1/4” hole in the bottom of the plastic side of the body. I may have a few minute leaking by the front tires but I’ve never had a problem, if tires are low(which they were) of overriding this.
Anyone have ideas? Anyone near Wilmington, DE with another valve body?
 

Elijah95

Certified Rookie
1,239
1,196
113
Location
Georgia
It seems my pneumatic valves in the cab may be leaking. The machine, sending its “test” shot of air, immediately blows it out a threaded 3/8” or 1/4” hole in the bottom of the plastic side of the body. I may have a few minute leaking by the front tires but I’ve never had a problem, if tires are low(which they were) of overriding this.
Anyone have ideas? Anyone near Wilmington, DE with another valve body?
Air the truck down, remove the cover, air lines and plugs then get it on a table and disassemble it. Just a few O rings and electro-magnetic solenoids. Replace the O rings and ohm out the solenoids should be around 40-60 ohms IIRC when I was rebuilding them. Couple drops of air tool oil on the moving parts and you’re golden.

Report back with results
 

sassriverrat

Member
103
8
18
Location
Georgetown, MD
So very interesting-

opened everything up and cleaned. Everything looked very clean inside, no evidence of grease/seal showing a blow out of any sort. Still didn’t find a plug of any sort for the plastic housing and I feel like it was supposed to have one. One solenoid showed 47 ohms- another seemed like it was 26 and I didn’t seem like I was getting a reading on the third.....

however, I was attempting to test using what I thought were in the pins in the connector and that wasn’t working.....either I didn’t have the pin outs right (via appearance of backside of connector) or it only did have one within 40-60 spec.
All valves appeared clean and easy to push and were greased and put back together (moly kote o ring grease).
As I said before, all CTIS worked perfectly until it just didn’t the other day....and I definitely think it sounds different than usual for testing air in cab...
 

Elijah95

Certified Rookie
1,239
1,196
113
Location
Georgia
So just to be clear, the top of the manifold that is a plastic cover is supposed to be vented, a small hole. If you plug said hole, when ctis purges a small bit of air to relieve the manifold after completion of checking/adding/subtracting air from the tires, it will either blow the o rings, add stress to your CTIS seals on the hubs, or bust your plastic cover of the ctis manifold

A small purge of air is normal


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

sassriverrat

Member
103
8
18
Location
Georgetown, MD
So just to be clear, the top of the manifold that is a plastic cover is supposed to be vented, a small hole. If you plug said hole, when ctis purges a small bit of air to relieve the manifold after completion of checking/adding/subtracting air from the tires, it will either blow the o rings, add stress to your CTIS seals on the hubs, or bust your plastic cover of the ctis manifold

A small purge of air is normal


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So I didn’t plug the hole. I did use my finger screwing around with it but didn’t put a plug on it... So taking the whole manifold apart everything was very clean. Still getting 5 lights.....the fun begins I guess
 

sassriverrat

Member
103
8
18
Location
Georgetown, MD
Same as usual- it blows a shot of air which most comes out the relief valve on the manifold, and them it goes back to 5 lights. And yes, that’s using the “flat” override with highway
 

Elijah95

Certified Rookie
1,239
1,196
113
Location
Georgia
Same as usual- it blows a shot of air which most comes out the relief valve on the manifold, and them it goes back to 5 lights. And yes, that’s using the “flat” override with highway
I’d recheck the solenoids, you’ll have one “common” and then individual power for each one.

It’s a video on my MTVR but the concept here is the same

Hopefully it helps


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

sassriverrat

Member
103
8
18
Location
Georgetown, MD
I’d recheck the solenoids, you’ll have one “common” and then individual power for each one.

It’s a video on my MTVR but the concept here is the same

Hopefully it helps


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Huh. Ok. I will go back and check. It seemed as if each solenoid had its own pair Of pins.
I just deployed again a few days ago so this is going to have to wait until June when I get home :(
 
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