New dash idea

[ramdough]

So, I was thinking about adding some switches to the dash. Then, I found out a family member was possibly getting a plasma table. So, now I am thinking about making a new dash plate all together.

Just brainstorming here and honestly, it will be a long while before I get to this on my todo list. But, since I have time to plan now, here are the questions.

Aside from packing in as many switch locations as I can fit, I plan to move the winch switches to the dash so I can have less obstructed view after I put in the taller Gen2 AC. I plan to delete the military light switch, have a rocker instead. Move the buzzer off the face. Move the dimmer switch somewhere else. Also, I was thinking about adding some gauges. I would pack them as tight as I can, like an A1R staggered pattern.

Planned:
Adding a tach (1999 1083A1 truck, no tach).
Adding a second fuel gauge for a second tank.
Boost gauge.
Transmission temp

Optional gauges:
EGT
12v gauge
Ammeter

I am not going to increase horsepower above stock.

What gauges would you pick and why? I am thinking of skipping the optional list, but thought I would list a few for you all to comment.

Thoughts?

Thanks!


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[Third From Texas]

 

[Awesomeness]

12V cigarette lighter outlet, and USB charging ports.

 

[Nomadic]

10" LCD

 

[ramdough]

10" LCD

What for? I plan to have an overhead area for rear view screen.


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[Nomadic]

What for? I plan to have an overhead area for rear view screen.


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A car computer (nav, trail maps, music, LMTV how-to manual, OBD2 readout), rear view camera.

 

[coachgeo]

redo the nose of your military dash heater (or heat/ac) to point in better direction of passengers. bend up a panel to fit between end of hump and heater box... provide for air intake though. hmm.... Fake start switch for security. Freturn to center Seat Eject /abort ,switch. have it turn on a countdown audio. and a fan that blows air on the driver seat. (abort maybe is fan only for use in driver comfort actually).

bend up an armrest for each door and an arm rest that bolts on hump for each seat inside armrest.

 

[ramdough]

I only asked about a couple of gauges. Which, if any are useful to add?

From what I can tell, most of you think it is a dumb idea. Based on the “unhelpful” responses.

I have seen several people paint their dashes, which I plan to do..... this does not appear to be much more work besides running a few wires. I already plan to cut some new switch locations.


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[Third From Texas]

I only asked about a couple of gauges. Which, if any are useful to add?

From what I can tell, most of you think it is a dumb idea. Based on the “unhelpful” responses.

I have seen several people paint their dashes, which I plan to do..... this does not appear to be much more work besides running a few wires. I already plan to cut some new switch locations.


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I wouldn't say it's a dumb idea at all. In fact I'd say additional switches a gauges a highly valuable. Look at a civilian semi dash compared to the scant amount of switches and information displayed on one of our trucks.

You have to remember that some models of trucks don't lend themselves to every solution as simply (ie: it's far easier to add a EGT gauge to an A1R than it is to an A0 truck but that doesn't mean having such a readout isn't useful). Or that a basic tach should not be added just because S&S didn't provide one to the troops driving the LMTVs w/o a winch. But some people are purists when it comes to military vehicles and you are *far* more likely to run into that thinking on this site than others at times.

Just due to design a stock configuration/space does limit what we can cram into our dash area unless you're willing to think outside the box. But it by no means indicates it's a dumb idea. You just have to weigh the time, effort, and cost involved.

 

[Third From Texas]

If I were 20 years younger and had the money, I'd go this route (my all-time favorite custom Baja Bug dash).

 

[coachgeo]

....From what I can tell, most of you think it is a dumb idea. Based on the “unhelpful” responses....

It's a fine idea. Don't confuse the banter with popooing an idea. Bantar is just a little contagious is all.

 

[ramdough]

So, what gauges on my list make the most sense to everyone? That was the original question....

Dash is in an 1999 1083A1 w/ 3126 serpentine belt truck.


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[coachgeo]

So, what gauges on my list make the most sense to everyone? That was the original question....

Dash is in an 1999 1083A1 w/ 3126 serpentine belt truck.


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when setting up your spacing.... of gauges explore if it lays out better without a second fuel gauge.. but a switch to flip which tank it is getting signal from. .

IMHO two of your optionals are closer to must haves with EGT being highest priority and 12v meter lower. 1 odds are you will change your mind at some point (or future buyer will) about upping engine output... and even if you never do.... egt's tell you how healthy your engine is (example find a grade you can drive up often.. or a flat strip you can pedal hard on for a mile. When doing so if she's starting to show higher egts for example, might be time for some injector cleaner or other maintenance. Could well even tell you which diesel station (or biodiesel) has sucky fuel consistently.

volt meter. wonder if you could do that same as the fuel tank switch... hit a switch to put 12v input thru the voltmeter instead of 24v. Am thinking one could divide in half easy enough to get the 12v reading. (unless something beyond it needs the 24v though your switch could open a new path for the 24v to bypass the meter when your set for 12v view).

Amp meter.. that's pretty optional unless your thinking on adding electronic stuff that may push alternator close to its amp limits.

what about tire pressure monitor... you screw them onto valve stem and mount readout into/onto dash. equal tire pressure is IMHO lot more important on AWD. reduces tranny ware a lot when circumference of tires is all equal. Less slippage of tranny components needed to accommodate if not.

 

[Third From Texas]

I like the fact that the A1Rs had added a 12v gauge. These trucks (like ambulances, etc) are notorious for vampiric draws and on both my trucks they were 12v. It's handy to know your charge states of both systems (because either can prevent the truck from starting). So I would add a 12v if I didn't have one.

You could get away with a single fuel gauge and dual tanks.

 

[ramdough]

I like the fact that the A1Rs had added a 12v gauge. These trucks (like ambulances, etc) are notorious for vampiric draws and on both my trucks they were 12v. It's handy to know your charge states of both systems (because either can prevent the truck from starting). So I would add a 12v if I didn't have one.

You could get away with a single fuel gauge and dual tanks.

I ended up buying a battery balancer. It is 100A rated. The one Superman sells. I am thinking with that, only one voltage gauge is good, since the balancer forces the 12v side to be 1/2 the 24v side.


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[ramdough]

Thanks everyone for your input.....

I will probably have to do several layouts before I finalize how many of gauges I can actually add.

What priority of the gauges listed above would you pick? Listed most needed to least. Did I miss any really important ones?

Thanks!


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[Third From Texas]

I ended up buying a battery balancer. It is 100A rated. The one Superman sells. I am thinking with that, only one voltage gauge is good, since the balancer forces the 12v side to be 1/2 the 24v side.


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Yeah, I got one off GP when they first showed up. They were NOS and a super good deal at $100 and came with a TON of wiring, a 24v regulator, and a massive disconnect switch.

It's just been sitting on my "to do" bench for the past several months. I just haven't figured out where to mount it yet (my battery box is full of...batteries). I'm thinking that I will re-build the electrical/NATO/disconnect box next to the battery box and make a large container for that, shore power inlet for the habitat, and any other associated electrical hardware.

 

[coachgeo]

Yeah, I got one off GP when they first showed up. They were NOS and a super good deal at $100 and came with a TON of wiring, a 24v regulator, and a massive disconnect switch.

It's just been sitting on my "to do" bench for the past several months. I just haven't figured out where to mount it yet (my battery box is full of...batteries). I'm thinking that I will re-build the electrical/NATO/disconnect box next to the battery box and make a large container for that, shore power inlet for the habitat, and any other associated electrical hardware.

View attachment 795783

can you or anyone post kit number so we can search for the install PDF? or copy theirs to PDF and post.

 

[Third From Texas]

The old kits that GP sold were:
Freightliner of Savannah A22-53833-000 Equalizer MWO Kit

The Bussman unit is the same one they used in School Buses:
21100E00 Battery Equalizer

The data sheet:

http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/catalog_pages/BUS_Tns_Equalizers_converters.pdf

Instructions:

http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/instructions/BUS_Tns_INST_180156a.pdf

 

[Third From Texas]

There are some wiring and mounting schematics that came with the kit but they are specific to the 5-ton Freightliner install. Not really of much use but I can take a pic if you need them. But seriously nothing of value...