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Tyre replacement with runflat
- Thread starter beehumvee
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- Olympia/WA
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Multiple YouTube videos on how to, as Craig points out above.
I prefer the engine cherry-picker method for removing the runflats, but there are compression tools AND the 2 bumper car method technique.
You need to compress and bend the runflat to insert it into your new tire.
You need to utilize a runflat to lock the tire to the rim, or the tire will not hold on to the bead on the rims.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND BEADLOCKS! Use runflats. If you blow out a tire you can roll over or blow up a differential without a runflat.
You must use special grease on the inside of you new tires when you use runflats! If you don't, friction might set your tire ablaze.
You need the correct "O" rings on hand prior to opening up your current split rims, so that you can close them back up later. I suggest you place the rings in the freezer for an hour to get them to tighten up and fit better. You need to identify your split rim version in order to order the correct "O" rings, as they vary in size by rim bolt pattern.
There is an art to placing "O" rings, and if you screw it up your rims will leak air.
Good luck.
T
I prefer the engine cherry-picker method for removing the runflats, but there are compression tools AND the 2 bumper car method technique.
You need to compress and bend the runflat to insert it into your new tire.
You need to utilize a runflat to lock the tire to the rim, or the tire will not hold on to the bead on the rims.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND BEADLOCKS! Use runflats. If you blow out a tire you can roll over or blow up a differential without a runflat.
You must use special grease on the inside of you new tires when you use runflats! If you don't, friction might set your tire ablaze.
You need the correct "O" rings on hand prior to opening up your current split rims, so that you can close them back up later. I suggest you place the rings in the freezer for an hour to get them to tighten up and fit better. You need to identify your split rim version in order to order the correct "O" rings, as they vary in size by rim bolt pattern.
There is an art to placing "O" rings, and if you screw it up your rims will leak air.
Good luck.
T
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I have been told that the special grease is only used with the magnesium run flats, and isn't required for the rubber ones.
The run flat compressor tool is readily available on ebay, I think I paid $25 for mine, brand new, including shipping.
I've done several with just ratchet straps, long pry bars, and lots of soapy water, but the run flat tool makes life MUCH easier. (I also use the bucket on a tractor with forklift forks on it to keep the tire from moving around, or to pry on the runflat when I need to, but that's kind of an uncommon situation)
And I do agree, having replacement O-rings on hand when doing this is a good idea. I have a set of spares on hand, but so far been lucky that none of the wheels I've done have leaked after reassembly with the old O-rings. I do use a lot of grease on them to hold them in place as well.
If someone is using brand new from the factory tires, then I'd say go ahead and use beadlocks if you want. There isn't any greater risk of death/destruction with a blowout in a HMMWV compared to a civilian vehicle if you don't panic when it happens. If you're running surplus tires then I definitely agree to use runflats in them. If you're going off road then run flats are also a good idea, as they can help you safely get the vehicle to a location where it's safe to change out the tire (one person I recall saying he had to drive 1/2 mile before the trail he was on widened out enough in order to change his tire driving up in the mountains)
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oh, and before unbolting the two halves of the wheel, MAKE SURE THE TIRE IS COMPLETELY DEFLATED!!
I recommend removing the valve core completely.
(if you try separating things when under pressure there is a possibility of explosions and grievous bodily harm and/or death)
I recommend removing the valve core completely.
(if you try separating things when under pressure there is a possibility of explosions and grievous bodily harm and/or death)
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- Brooklyn, NY
You were told wrong. Very wrong. You need the grease with all runflats.
Multiple posts on multiple forums about people who did not run grease and tires started smoking and also sustaining damage, because there was no lubricant b/t the run flat and the deflated tire.
Multiple posts on multiple forums about people who did not run grease and tires started smoking and also sustaining damage, because there was no lubricant b/t the run flat and the deflated tire.
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- Brentwood, Calif
I haven’t installed RF grease in 30yrs. The grease is for when you run on the RF.
the old magnesium RF’s had a packet of grease taped to the RF, when the tire went flat it broke the packet open.
the old magnesium RF’s had a packet of grease taped to the RF, when the tire went flat it broke the packet open.
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You are correct, the manual does say to use "Lubricant, Runflat" with the rubber runflats (which is a different product than the grease used with the magnesium runflats)
The amount the manual says to use is 11 oz, which is 1 full tube, per tire.
Cheapest I found it for sale is about $40 per tube.
I'd say that yes, you REALLY want it in there if you are planning on driving any real distance at speed. With the runflat lube in the tire you can supposedly drive 30 miles at 30mph. I personally have no plans to drive that far on a flat tire or that fast, so I'm not really worried about the heat/friction possibilities from the rubber on rubber contact. The extra $160 to do all 4 tires isn't worth it to me in a non-combat situation (and then add in the multiple spare tires and trailers I have with runflats as well)
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- Camp Wood/LC, TX
The ebay runflat compressor with the boat winch is absolute garbage. So I tried the youtube method with the hydraulic jack. Had about 6 tons of pressure on the jack making the runflat oval, when suddenly the runflat changed shape and launched the 4x4 timber spacer I was using out and it hit me between the eyes and now I have a huge scar there.
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- Brooklyn, NY
YIKES!
I was referring to maybe a different method where the jack and it's base are on top of the tire and a chain is placed around the runflat and it is pulled free. No wood timbers involved.
Coug, reread my post and didn't mean to sound so harsh.
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- Camp Wood/LC, TX
No I was trying to INSTALL the runflat. Pulling them out using the redneck pickup truck method is simple and easy.
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- Brooklyn, NY
I need to teach the 3 rope interlock method. I’ll try to make a video. Only rope. No wood.
One rope tied to hoop up. One down. One then locks run flat into oval shape. The upper and lower ropes run through each other. So the hoop stays upright. Gotta draw a picture. Words fail me.
Works every time.
Wear your scar with pride.
Best,
T
Dear friends. Thank you so much for your help. I have not decided yet weather to install the new tires with the run flat or not. The reason that makes me place details is that running on road at fifty miles our I am jumping and Jumpin Jumpin... making the on road tryps very unconfortable. I have balanced the tires but nothing have change. How do you balance the wheels? With stick on weights inside wheel or clip on weight out the wheel?
Regarding the runflat again, I have found the goodyear original tires in very good shape, but i have asked in several tires shops here in Spain about to remove and insert the ru flats in the tires, and no body have done it before. So I need to know it is possible to install the tyres without the runflats?
Other question, somebody said that once oppening the wheel o ring should be replaced. What the hell is the o ring?
Thank you so much for the help!
Willie
Regarding the runflat again, I have found the goodyear original tires in very good shape, but i have asked in several tires shops here in Spain about to remove and insert the ru flats in the tires, and no body have done it before. So I need to know it is possible to install the tyres without the runflats?
Other question, somebody said that once oppening the wheel o ring should be replaced. What the hell is the o ring?
Thank you so much for the help!
Willie
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- Brooklyn, NY
Read a technical manual to understand "O" ring.
If you don't install a runflat your tire is at high risk of not holding the bead and separating from the wheel.
Watch a "YouTube" video on how to remove and install the tires.
Riding without runflats is really dangerous.
Don't let an inexperienced tire shoppe determine how to properly install tires.
- 2,976
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- Olympia/WA
If the tires have been balanced but still run rough, then they are most likely out of round. As far as I know there isn't really anything you can do once they are out of round, other than replace them.
I know for mine when I got my truck they were badly out of round (had been sitting in one spot in the desert for a decade) and you could definitely tell.
Replaced the rears with a pair from a trailer.
Then installed Centramatic balancers.
Finally got a replacement pair for the front.
Each step helped, but it wasn't until they were replaced that it stopped riding so rough. Still has some slight vibration at high speeds (around 100kph), but overall much nicer.
So as to the O-ring, as Tobash suggests, you should probably read the manual before doing anything to your tires/wheels.
Might be a terminology issue though, so the O-ring is a large round piece of rubber in the shape of a large ring that goes in a groove between the 2 pieces of the wheel in order to seal them. There is a groove it fits into in one side. They get out of shape after using, so it is a good idea to replace them whenever you take apart the wheel. If air is leaking past the O-ring it's a little harder to locate than something like the outside bead where you can easily see bubbles after spraying with water/soap when finding leaks.
I will disagree with Tobash about the wheel/tire being a high risk of separation if you don't have the runflat installed. If you keep the tires properly aired up, then there isn't really much greater risk than most other tires of coming off the rim during normal driving.
The issue is when you run them off road at lower pressures, then the angle of the tire seat does make it easier to separate.
(the civilian H1 1 piece rims run the same tires but don't have a bead locker.)
I know for mine when I got my truck they were badly out of round (had been sitting in one spot in the desert for a decade) and you could definitely tell.
Replaced the rears with a pair from a trailer.
Then installed Centramatic balancers.
Finally got a replacement pair for the front.
Each step helped, but it wasn't until they were replaced that it stopped riding so rough. Still has some slight vibration at high speeds (around 100kph), but overall much nicer.
So as to the O-ring, as Tobash suggests, you should probably read the manual before doing anything to your tires/wheels.
Might be a terminology issue though, so the O-ring is a large round piece of rubber in the shape of a large ring that goes in a groove between the 2 pieces of the wheel in order to seal them. There is a groove it fits into in one side. They get out of shape after using, so it is a good idea to replace them whenever you take apart the wheel. If air is leaking past the O-ring it's a little harder to locate than something like the outside bead where you can easily see bubbles after spraying with water/soap when finding leaks.
I will disagree with Tobash about the wheel/tire being a high risk of separation if you don't have the runflat installed. If you keep the tires properly aired up, then there isn't really much greater risk than most other tires of coming off the rim during normal driving.
The issue is when you run them off road at lower pressures, then the angle of the tire seat does make it easier to separate.
(the civilian H1 1 piece rims run the same tires but don't have a bead locker.)
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- Brooklyn, NY
Coug:
The bead is constructed differently on the civilian H1 rims. The Military is angled and the civilian is square.
It is unsafe to run military rims without a runflat/bead locker. I stand by what I said my friend.
[EDIT - P.S. - I own both civilian and military specs Hummers, so I get to see this stuff]
The bead is constructed differently on the civilian H1 rims. The Military is angled and the civilian is square.
It is unsafe to run military rims without a runflat/bead locker. I stand by what I said my friend.
[EDIT - P.S. - I own both civilian and military specs Hummers, so I get to see this stuff]
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Interesting. So I took some pictures. I even sprayed a little grey primer so we could see it better.
Picture 1 is the inner side of a HMMWV wheel.
Picture 2 is the inner side of a civilian 16.5 inch wheel.
Picture 3 is the outer side of a HMMWV wheel.
Picture 4 is the outer side of the civi wheel.
It does appear that the angle of the lip of the rim is less pronounced on the HMMWV wheel. Regardless I have been removing the run flats with my Sawsall for 6 years and have never experienced a failure with my run flat less HMMWV wheels & tires. The problem is getting them to seat the first time. I use ether.
The right way to run them without the run flat would be to use a PVC insert. This would simulate the run flat and allow you to run low pressures off road. It is on my shopping list.
Picture 5 is the HMMWV wheel. Showing the o ring and the groove it goes in. I re-use the o ring when I can. I just clean it up and put it back. I have also cut a larger o ring to fit. And I have put an o ring in the freezer to shrink it to fit. Maybe I'm just lucky but I haven't had any leaks or failures of the o ring either.
I also use Centramatics and Balance Masters depending on the wheel, civi or military. I really like them. But if the wheel is out of round you will not stop bouncing.
Good luck Sir.
Picture 1 is the inner side of a HMMWV wheel.
Picture 2 is the inner side of a civilian 16.5 inch wheel.
Picture 3 is the outer side of a HMMWV wheel.
Picture 4 is the outer side of the civi wheel.
It does appear that the angle of the lip of the rim is less pronounced on the HMMWV wheel. Regardless I have been removing the run flats with my Sawsall for 6 years and have never experienced a failure with my run flat less HMMWV wheels & tires. The problem is getting them to seat the first time. I use ether.
The right way to run them without the run flat would be to use a PVC insert. This would simulate the run flat and allow you to run low pressures off road. It is on my shopping list.
Picture 5 is the HMMWV wheel. Showing the o ring and the groove it goes in. I re-use the o ring when I can. I just clean it up and put it back. I have also cut a larger o ring to fit. And I have put an o ring in the freezer to shrink it to fit. Maybe I'm just lucky but I haven't had any leaks or failures of the o ring either.
I also use Centramatics and Balance Masters depending on the wheel, civi or military. I really like them. But if the wheel is out of round you will not stop bouncing.
Good luck Sir.
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Again thank you for your help. I will try to remove the runflat (is it possible that hte runflat is also out of round for long sitting?) and reinstall it into the new tires. I have read that there is a runflat compressor, any recomendation about where to buy the compresor and the compressor model? thank you
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- Okinawa, Japan
No, the run flat is not out of round. You can use a ratchet strap to compress the rubber runflat. You just squeeze two sides together so that you can get it into the new tire. Use lots of soapy water to slide it in.