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Artisan's M916

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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Try something like this....


Or this....

 

Artisan

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Location
CDA Idaho
So, I decided to bite the bullet and get all new tires for my
trailer. I shopped them HARD! I ended up w/ 9-235/75/R17.5
tries for $565.65 "DELIVERED FREE" Total, Out the DOOR!
16ply, Load Range M 5675lbs each in a Dual Config

So that is a 45,400 load rated tires on 2 axles that are rated at 23K each
for 46,000 (less rims and tires)

I think I got a SMOKING HOT deal on NINE Tires! LOL!
 

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simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
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So, I decided to bite the bullet and get all new tires for my
trailer. I shopped them HARD! I ended up w/ 9-235/75/R17.5
tries for $565.65 "DELIVERED FREE" Total, Out the DOOR!
16ply, Load Range M 5675lbs each in a Dual Config

So that is a 45,400 load rated tires on 2 axles that are rated at 23K each
for 46,000 (less rims and tires)

I think I got a SMOKING HOT deal on NINE Tires! LOL!
Yeah. Walmart has pretty good deals on commercial tires lately
 

Artisan

Well-known member
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Location
CDA Idaho
Steering Wheel Repair

So I called a couple of steering wheel repair shops and the prices
were astronomical to putty up my ring cracks and fractures in
the Bakelite 20" stock steering wheel and I have given up looking
for a new one. I told a buddy about my plight and he recomended
I get a product called Wizard Repair Products (WRP) . He swaers by it.
SO I bought a small batch of it. He is really good a tedious detail
work so I let him have-at-it. I AM IMPRESSED! Letting it sit and
get good and hard then hit it w/ some 600 grit and spray paint it
Black...
He swears it will bond... He was very miticulous in cleaning the bakelite
and there is a process, this WRP comes in 4 parts... 2 puttys you knead
together and 2 solutions for bonding I think it was.
 

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Artisan

Well-known member
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63
Location
CDA Idaho
ONE MAN'S TRASH...

_So we went from a Big Cam 1 to a Big Cam 3 and w/ the BC3 there
is no LuberFiner 750 used. I went w/ my initial idea of converting
that tank into a WindShield Washer Fluid Resivoir and by golly, all
my thoughts came together and it works! Remember I have installed
an A/C system so the standard fair 1 gallon white plastic jug was mounted
just to the right of the accelerator pedal, a PITA it was...

_First I completely stripped all fitting and I mean ALL FITTINGS off of
the tanks lower and upper lid. I used a CAT 7155 type breather for
the exhaust (center top) and drilled and installed some 3/16" barbed
bulkhead fittings w/ o-rings for the AIR IN and WASHER FLUID OUT.
The bottom 3 holes were filled w/ fine thread bolts and flanged nuts
and hose washers. I just cut the AIR and WASHER FLUID lines at the
old white tank and used some 3/16" barb x barb fittings and extended
the hoses. VIOLA!~

He shoots, HE SCORES!
 

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Artisan

Well-known member
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227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
WARN Series 18 18,000 Military Winches

I picked up 2 of these bad boys some time back. I think they were on MRAPS /
Buffalo type trucks. I needed some springs for the Anti Birds nest tension plate
and dang, they averaged $20 EACH plus ride! I took some measurements and
pulled the trigger on a pair of these from McMaster https://www.mcmaster.com/94135K42
Two for the price of one. I think they will be perfect... Stock springs are #24293

Additionally the clutch that allows you to freewheel the line OUT quickly is an Air Clutch.
The part to replce is expensive. I simply connected an air line to it and it works fine so
a line from the truck will be easy the few times I may need it ( for now) .
 

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Artisan

Well-known member
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Location
CDA Idaho
BATTERYS and FUEL ISSUE

So the truck has been sitting while I rebuild my trailer.
I went to start the truck and it turned over and over and right before
the old batteries went kaputt she started to fire and then it started.

This killed the old batteries, and I assume the engine was not getting fuel.
(Losing prime? I am not sure here...)

Anyways I need new batteries so I went looking.
I found 950CCA SAE Post Batteries at Car Quest . CLICK HERE

It seemed like a good deal THEN I was offered $50 OFF if I gave up my
email addy, Heck Yea! PLUS $28.00 EA Core. So I ended up w/ 2 new
batteries for about $230.00 A BARGAIN.

I put the batteries in and the same starved of fuel issue happened but
it pumped up and started. It ran real rough for a bit then smoothed out.
( I am assuming it is fuel starvation)

Should I put a Ball Valve at the tank on the fuel feed line and simply shut it off
when the truck sits so fuel does not drain down?
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,125
9,384
113
Location
Mason, TN
BATTERYS and FUEL ISSUE

So the truck has been sitting while I rebuild my trailer.
I went to start the truck and it turned over and over and right before
the old batteries went kaputt she started to fire and then it started.

This killed the old batteries, and I assume the engine was not getting fuel.
(Losing prime? I am not sure here...)

Anyways I need new batteries so I went looking.
I found 950CCA SAE Post Batteries at Car Quest . CLICK HERE

It seemed like a good deal THEN I was offered $50 OFF if I gave up my
email addy, Heck Yea! PLUS $28.00 EA Core. So I ended up w/ 2 new
batteries for about $230.00 A BARGAIN.

I put the batteries in and the same starved of fuel issue happened but
it pumped up and started. It ran real rough for a bit then smoothed out.
( I am assuming it is fuel starvation)

Should I put a Ball Valve at the tank on the fuel feed line and simply shut it off
when the truck sits so fuel does not drain down?
Sucking air from somewhere. Either a dry rotted suction line or maybe a dry rotted o ring in the pump.

Even sitting for months a good fuel system should fire right off. Just look for any wet spots around the pump
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Several years ago when the first of the M915 "Series" of trucks we being released before I was born here
many incredibly talented men (the Old Guard I call them ;-) ) grabbed these monsters
and posted up how to's and like, like they were going out of style.
The wealth of information one can find here is great. Extremely time consuming but
there are some real nuggets. The old guard, for the most part less a few hold outs have moved on,
bought bigger or more toys and or have just lost interest or sold or suffer from forum burnout.

I so wish there was a forum dedicated to these trucks and as good threads are found
they were moved into it. The 5 TON forum has grown HUGE.

The M915 Series of trucks as I know it is the M915 , M916, M917, M918, M919, M920 - A1 A2 A3

I am going to post my thoughts for others and for reference w/ emphasis on the M916.

I hope this thread stays on point w/o a lot of useless banter. Try to
stick to the facts, and please correct me if I am wrong. There are other
threads and many went astray.

___________________________________________________


On the PS and DS of the truck outside there are two electrical outlets.
BII for the M916 was a flood light to be used there. I wish I could
find one priced right. I wrote Hubbell Co. and I got the spec's on
those plugs so we can buy the plugs and make our own goodies.

The female connector on the bottom is what should connect to the trucks male recessed outlet.

The majority of the electrical components on these trucks are 12VOLTS, so are there these plugs;

http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring/section-b-datasheet.asp?FAM=Locking_Devices&PN=HBL7465V

HBL7465V -- Twist-Lock Valise Plug
View attachment 487099



http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring/section-b-datasheet.asp?FAM=Locking_Devices&PN=HBL7464V

HBL7464V -- Twist-Lock Valise Connector Body
View attachment 487098
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
... Just for ships and giggles

Project Tilt Trailer is coming along nice.
Almost done w/ stairs to command module. I drew stringers in AutoCAD and had
sendcutsend.com cut them for me out of .375 ALUM and grabbed
some McMaster steps and some framework and Viola!

Adjustable legs in the works.
 

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Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Long time now rant! Ha~!

So when the engine failed well over 1 year ago I had just filled up the tank.
Some of the fuel was siphoned off but there was still 50 gallons in the tank.
FAST FORWARD and I find I have a LOT of Algae in the fuel and we also have
a thick syrup that is dark brown in the bottom of the tank . I worked thru the
engine issues and that syrup and now I am down to cleaning the tank.

All fuel has been removed, bottom plug pulled and a valve installed in the
bottom hole. I have HOT WATER hose connected to the tanks OUTLET
port flushing backwards to attempt to flush the suction down tube.
I have been pressure washing what I can reach in the tank
but because there is a huge baffle midway in the tank I can not clean the front
half of the tank!

I want it RIGHT! Unless someone has an alternative suggestion here is what
I plan on doing. If I add ANOTHER Filler Neck, 4" just like the existing
I will have a nice clean out hole... I would LOVE to exact match the filler
neck that is OE but I can't seem to find that filler neck !

I think I found the filler neck at this link but LARGE ORDERS ONLY! omg...
https://www.fillernecksupply.com/4-inch-aluminum-weld-in-bayonet-filler-neck-w-vented-cap/
( I did just write the above company asking if they have just one, not holding my breath)


By any chance do ya'll know another avenue to that same filler neck in Aluminum?
OR better idea(s)?
 
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