After market wheels?

[Sintorion]

Anyone have any luck with after market wheels? I am not a fan of the steel wheels and looking for something a little more appealing, a lot lighter, and something that isn't a 16.5.

 

[Action]

Hummer H1 wheels. or Cepek.

 

[fllaw1]

37 x 12.50 x 17s 8x6.5 keep the center bore about 125mm or larger and you should be fine. I love the Hutchinson's Arnold has on it with the BFGs, they are large dollars though used even.

 

[86m1028]

Any aftermarket wheel company sells them

 

[Sintorion]

37 x 12.50 x 17s 8x6.5 keep the center bore about 125mm or larger and you should be fine. I love the Hutchinson's Arnold has on it with the BFGs, they are large dollars though used even.

View attachment 660692 View attachment 660693

Any idea of the stock offset? 8 on 6.5 is a pretty common size, but I am concerned about getting the close to the correct offset so that I don't rub. Those look like they have a lot of back space. Most of what I am finding 9" wide have 5.75" of back space which would place them with about 18mm of offset. Those Hutchinson wheels are nice!

 

[Sintorion]

After a little research I think I found the stock specs from GT wheels. 16.5 x 8.5 with a +50mm offset and 6.7" of back spacing. For those that know wheels, that is a pretty high positive number. Something you typically find with a front wheel drive set up. Considering that most GM trucks that use the 8 on 6.5 don't have them set that far in, I am concerned with the aftermarket world since that is what most of the wheels are built for.

The most back spacing I have found on a 8 on 6.5 is around 5.75 on a 9" wide wheel. This would push the outer lip about an inch and a half (1/2 inch of increased wheel width + 1 inch of lost back spacing). This increases the "swing" of the tires making it more likely to rub while at full turn. Not sure how much 'extra' room there is in the wheel well. Just hate the idea of wrapping up a bunch of money into wheels that I can't use about as much as I hate the idea of laying out $400 a piece for GTs that have the correct offset.

 

[fllaw1]

You are correct the stock H2 wheel has a 18 as well. The 12 bolt 2 pc has a 7" backspacing . After market wheels you need to really check what the manufacturer recommends. i.e Method wheels recommends the 0 or 8 for the Hmmwv and most of their wheels have a standard 130 bore.

http://www.flashoffroad.com/features/Wheels/Wheels.htm

 

[MaverickH1]

An additional problem is that a lot of the aftermarket wheels are not load rated high enough. HMMWVs are kind of a rare beast because they don't necessarily tow a lot when compared to modern vehicles, but they are designed to carry a lot. When I looked at my truck for example, the payload capacity was somewhere between a 3/4 ton and a 1 ton in today's standards. That's a lot of potential weight.

While there's no guarantee that I'll be mounting a surface to air missile system on the truck, I hesitate to reduce the effective load rating by making the wheels the weak point. In fact, I'll be reducing my HMMWV's payload capacity slowly but surely because I don't plan on carrying that weight regularly, if ever. And the ride is so **** stiff on my back roads that I think my back will suffer in the long term.

I plan on going to 17" rims at some point just to increase the available tire options and reduce costs. Hutchinson wheels and Dick Cepek wheels are the most commonly used ones on the Hummer H1s. If you look at new tire prices, switching to 17" wheels pays itself off in just one tire change over buying the military 16.5" tire. And I would wager you end up with a better tire.

 

[dilvoy]

After a little research I think I found the stock specs from GT wheels. 16.5 x 8.5 with a +50mm offset and 6.7" of back spacing. For those that know wheels, that is a pretty high positive number. Something you typically find with a front wheel drive set up. Considering that most GM trucks that use the 8 on 6.5 don't have them set that far in, I am concerned with the aftermarket world since that is what most of the wheels are built for.

The most back spacing I have found on a 8 on 6.5 is around 5.75 on a 9" wide wheel. This would push the outer lip about an inch and a half (1/2 inch of increased wheel width + 1 inch of lost back spacing). This increases the "swing" of the tires making it more likely to rub while at full turn. Not sure how much 'extra' room there is in the wheel well. Just hate the idea of wrapping up a bunch of money into wheels that I can't use about as much as I hate the idea of laying out $400 a piece for GTs that have the correct offset.

Why are you comparing your Humvee to a GM Truck? Because it has a GM Engine and Transmission? Swing of the wheel and scuffing? It's an all wheel drive vehicle with ball joints that are over two full inches inboard of the inner lip of the wheel rims so it can only swing as the ball jointt are not located within the wheel. This vehicle has Geared Hubs, why would you want to re-design the wheels to what a completely differently designed suspension system uses? You might try the first Humvee wheels, however they were found to be weak and were replaced when the Gov went to radials. They were the eight bolt wheels, but they looked the coolest of all the Humvee wheel types. You might try a set of them and just don't air them up over 25 psi. You could chrome the two parts of them to really make them stand out. Many more shapes to those wheels and they actually show from the outer side that they are two part wheels. It makes people ask all sorts of questions about them as compared to all the rest of the Humvee wheel designs which use an outer disk for the complete outer portion of the wheels. With the eight bolt wheels you'll loose the ability to drive at near top speed on dirt and gravel roads without slowing for or maneuvering around pot holes or rough surfaces. You'll have to slow down so you don't pop wheel studs, but most other vehicles have to slow way down in that situation so the whole vehicle doesn't shake apart so it is probably ok, especially if you don't have fun driving fast on fire or back roads.

 

[Sintorion]

An additional problem is that a lot of the aftermarket wheels are not load rated high enough. HMMWVs are kind of a rare beast because they don't necessarily tow a lot when compared to modern vehicles, but they are designed to carry a lot. When I looked at my truck for example, the payload capacity was somewhere between a 3/4 ton and a 1 ton in today's standards. That's a lot of potential weight.

While there's no guarantee that I'll be mounting a surface to air missile system on the truck, I hesitate to reduce the effective load rating by making the wheels the weak point. In fact, I'll be reducing my HMMWV's payload capacity slowly but surely because I don't plan on carrying that weight regularly, if ever. And the ride is so **** stiff on my back roads that I think my back will suffer in the long term.

I plan on going to 17" rims at some point just to increase the available tire options and reduce costs. Hutchinson wheels and Dick Cepek wheels are the most commonly used ones on the Hummer H1s. If you look at new tire prices, switching to 17" wheels pays itself off in just one tire change over buying the military 16.5" tire. And I would wager you end up with a better tire.

You are probably in a different situation than most with the m1123, but with a 10K GVW most cast aluminum wheels would still work. Since the 8 on 6.5s are used on 3/4 and 1 tons truck they have higher load capacities than standards wheels. Most KMC wheels for example are in the 1900 -2500lbs rating except the 8 lug wheels which are 3600lbs or higher. That would give you more than the 6K you need for the rear capacity or the total capacity. I totally agree that the 17" is the way to go. Much more selection generally means lower prices. 16.5s are on their way out. It has always been a funky size.

The Hutchison's and the Cepek wheels are forged which gives them a higher load capacity, but that also is what makes the price so incredibly high. Sweet wheels, but I have a hard time justifying spending as much in wheels and tires as I did for my m998. Especially if I can get something that looks better and leaves money in my pocket. Don't get me wrong, looks aren't everything, but at some point I will be selling this and looks do matter.

Why are you comparing your Humvee to a GM Truck? Because it has a GM Engine and Transmission? Swing of the wheel and scuffing? It's an all wheel drive vehicle with ball joints that are over two full inches inboard of the inner lip of the wheel rims so it can only swing as the ball jointt are not located within the wheel. This vehicle has Geared Hubs, why would you want to re-design the wheels to what a completely differently designed suspension system uses? You might try the first Humvee wheels, however they were found to be weak and were replaced when the Gov went to radials. They were the eight bolt wheels, but they looked the coolest of all the Humvee wheel types. You might try a set of them and just don't air them up over 25 psi. You could chrome the two parts of them to really make them stand out. Many more shapes to those wheels and they actually show from the outer side that they are two part wheels. It makes people ask all sorts of questions about them as compared to all the rest of the Humvee wheel designs which use an outer disk for the complete outer portion of the wheels. With the eight bolt wheels you'll loose the ability to drive at near top speed on dirt and gravel roads without slowing for or maneuvering around pot holes or rough surfaces. You'll have to slow down so you don't pop wheel studs, but most other vehicles have to slow way down in that situation so the whole vehicle doesn't shake apart so it is probably ok, especially if you don't have fun driving fast on fire or back roads.

I am comparing them because they share the same bolt pattern. Since they do and they sell a lot of Chevy trucks, being able to use the same parts cuts the costs and increases selection. We are not talking advanced math here and not redesigning anything. I am just looking for a lower cost alternative. Wheels are wheels. If they fit and the tires don't rub, I am happy. It has nothing to do with geared hubs or ball joint location. With after market wheels, getting the offset and back spacing correct is the key. I think the rest of what you are talking about are bead locks. With a 16.5 wheel you need them if you want to run aired down because they don't have a safety ridge. Bead lockers are great if you need them, but I don't plan on rock crawling and will spend most of my time in sand since we don't have rocks in Fla.

 

[dilvoy]

Lots of wheels will fit that bolt pattern. You'll find something.

 

[Special T]

An additional thought. Most aftermarket aluminum wheels are cast Aluminum not machined bullet. There is a HUGE DIFFERENCE in strength. I'd only go with cast if I was gona run around empty all the time at city speeds.

 

[MaverickH1]

You are probably in a different situation than most with the m1123, but with a 10K GVW most cast aluminum wheels would still work. Since the 8 on 6.5s are used on 3/4 and 1 tons truck they have higher load capacities than standards wheels. Most KMC wheels for example are in the 1900 -2500lbs rating except the 8 lug wheels which are 3600lbs or higher. That would give you more than the 6K you need for the rear capacity or the total capacity. I totally agree that the 17" is the way to go. Much more selection generally means lower prices. 16.5s are on their way out. It has always been a funky size.
The Hutchison's and the Cepek wheels are forged which gives them a higher load capacity, but that also is what makes the price so incredibly high. Sweet wheels, but I have a hard time justifying spending as much in wheels and tires as I did for my m998. Especially if I can get something that looks better and leaves money in my pocket. Don't get me wrong, looks aren't everything, but at some point I will be selling this and looks do matter.

Agreed.

I guess the question I would ask then would be if you plan on using it for offroading. The Humvee is not very good at articulation, and it's not uncommon to have one wheel completely off the ground. So to me, I try to spec the wheels out so that one wheel can handle three quarters of the load, as a general rule of thumb.

I just wanted to point out that the load rating will be an additional restriction on the wheels you can get. While I've never seen a bent rim on a Humvee or Hummer, I've also never seen a serious off road truck with anything but stock wheels or Cepeks or Hutchisons.

Cepeks are $450 a wheel or so, and unlock the cheaper tire options if you don't want to fish for surplus tires. It could turn out to be more cost effective to go with them.

 

[86m1028]

There are quite a few aftermarket options out there.
Check with a good Quality local tire/wheel shop.
1st thing they will ask is, What type of vehicle are they going on ?
Nowadays you can even have wheels made to your specs.

 

[mreuss222]

I just powered coated a stock set of h1 rims mounted 39s on them
Went to mount and they don't fit.
I have a 91 m998. I was told they fit.
The hub opening on the rim is to small by a 1/8 on each.side.
Anyone have some input on this?

 

[86m1028]

I just powered coated a stock set of h1 rims mounted 39s on them
Went to mount and they don't fit.
I have a 91 m998. I was told they fit.
The hub opening on the rim is to small by a 1/8 on each.side.
Anyone have some input on this?

Those aren’t H1 wheels those are civi h2 wheels

 

[mreuss222]

Those aren’t H1 wheels those are civi h2 wheels

yup found that out. and found out that i will have to enlarge the hub hole a little
didnt realize that neither did the person i bought them from.
was hoping someone here has done this and had some advice.