New -002A Owner looking for guidance

[Scoobyshep]

I have the TM from here but I don't have a clue what years it's for. My 002A is a 1984 built by Onan according to the plate. Is there an advantage to using a 24v battery vs 2 12v batts? This is eventually going to become the backup power during floods at my cabin on the river and I could see it being a challenge to locate another 24v when the primary eventually fails, but 12vs are easy to come by even in rural areas. The battery boxes in it look like they will fit 2 12vs but I haven't checked because I have much to go through before I get there.

At least the delivery valve components that I got from Ray fit and installed easily so that problem's corrected.

The advantage is in the ratings and the availability.

Do yourself a favor and install a battery disconnect switch as well.

 

[islandguydon]

Well i guess its prefrence , Why maintain [2] when you maintain only [1], guess it does not matter, either way your going to use a solargizer anyway to keep the voltage topped off and desulfated . I have started my generators, and a truck or two with only [1]. Just a thought, I did not want to crash your thread, Keep your head up, these machines are a learning experience .

 

[Crusty007]

Since my unit was built for two I have a strong incentive to go with two - and the thought of sweltering in the heat waiting for a battery to arrive when I could have gone to Napa and bought a replacement 12v days before is the deciding factor for me. If they'd fit I'd even consider Trojan T105 6v batteries because I had a pair that I took care of which lasted me over 10 years in 3 different boats.

I thought I knew a bit about mechanicin' but apparently there's still some things I don't know.

 

[Guyfang]

All the TM's here in the forum are the most up to date, allowed to be given to the unwashed masses. Some TM's are not authorized for public release.

Thank you Crusty. I guess I am getting old. I have been feeling shi**y about it, since reading your post. A little humble pie is sometimes needed.

 

[Crusty007]

I'm familiar with occasional brain dysfunction because it's something I have to watch for myself since I no longer have the mental clarity that I had for most of my life. I find that it's wise for me to check things several times, ensuring that my thought process isn't locked into the same train of thought previously used. It's slower for sure but my life's not ruled by the clock anymore so it's all good.

Onward, through the fog.

 

[Ray70]

Guy, don't beat yourself up. For a moment I thought I may have given Crusty the same mis-information because I know for a fact that the 802/803 DOES have a left hand thread and I thought I may have mistakenly said the same about the 002/003 while talking to Crusty on PM. Unfortunately we all make mistakes from time to time. With all the wealth of knowledge you've passed along over the years you're entitled to at least one Brain F*rt now and then!

 

[Ray70]

The 002's are designed for a pair of 2HN batteries which can still be found at Tractor Supply. Personally I always just get 51R batteries for 002's. They are just about the same size and very common for pretty much every Honda on the road from the 90's through the late 2000's and possibly more.

 

[Chainbreaker]

I've got 6 Interstate 51R's in my 3 gensets soon to be 8 once I find time to work on gen set #4. They seem to work great so far and turn the starter over quite well. I put them on battery maintainers and they are always ready to spring into action. In general 51R's are pretty easy to find anywhere.

 

[islandguydon]

[Guyfang]
All the TM's here in the forum are the most up to date, allowed to be given to the unwashed masses. Some TM's are not authorized for public release.
Thank you Crusty. I guess I am getting old. I have been feeling shi**y about it, since reading your post. A little humble pie is sometimes needed. Btw,


Btw, the Tm's I was talking about came with a load I picked up from the auction @ Ft Bragg. 3 of them are not in the TM download available here on S.S.

I do however highly recommend a solargizer for your new baby, I just experienced 4 trucks sitting for 8 years, Funny thing, they all had a solargizer and started
right up. Let that be a testimony of the effectiveness. In my humble opinion.

Good luck on your project. IGD

 

[Guyfang]

[Guyfang]
All the TM's here in the forum are the most up to date, allowed to be given to the unwashed masses. Some TM's are not authorized for public release.
Thank you Crusty. I guess I am getting old. I have been feeling shi**y about it, since reading your post. A little humble pie is sometimes needed. Btw,


Btw, the Tm's I was talking about came with a load I picked up from the auction @ Ft Bragg. 3 of them are not in the TM download available here on S.S.

I do however highly recommend a solargizer for your new baby, I just experienced 4 trucks sitting for 8 years, Funny thing, they all had a solargizer and started
right up. Let that be a testimony of the effectiveness. In my humble opinion.

Good luck on your project. IGD

What TM numbers are the ones not in the forum?

 

[Crusty007]

I don't think there was any malice involved, but rather just a common misrememberance.

But don't trivialize the impact of a needlessly broken bolt in the crankshaft. I still don't know yet if this just became a parts machine.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Got an EZ out in your arsenal? I dont know if thats a hardened bolt, but those things sure are convenient for messes like this.

 

[Crusty007]

I haven't been able to see the end of the bolt yet because I'm still struggling to get the flywheel off. I made a puller this morning and threaded the stripped out hole for a larger bolt, but after an hour with a big Crescent wrench I'm still no closer to getting it off. I'm close to dragging my oxy torch over there and heating the hub. I've seen flywheels on big truck motors that weren't on this tight.

If the end of the shaft that I can see is the end of the crank then the break is too far down in there to ever hope of drilling it for an easy out. If that turns out to be the case then I'll thread the end of the crank for a larger diameter bolt that doesn't go as deep to hold the replacement flywheel on since it's keyed to the shaft.

 

[Scoobyshep]

I haven't been able to see the end of the bolt yet because I'm still struggling to get the flywheel off. I made a puller this morning and threaded the stripped out hole for a larger bolt, but after an hour with a big Crescent wrench I'm still no closer to getting it off. I'm close to dragging my oxy torch over there and heating the hub. I've seen flywheels on big truck motors that weren't on this tight.

If the end of the shaft that I can see is the end of the crank then the break is too far down in there to ever hope of drilling it for an easy out. If that turns out to be the case then I'll thread the end of the crank for a larger diameter bolt that doesn't go as deep to hold the replacement flywheel on since it's keyed to the shaft.

Look up a product called knocker loose

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[Chainbreaker]

In looking for CRC's Knock'er Loose I ran across this test.

Looks like "Seafoam Deep Creep" and "Knock'er Loose" are the best of the lot followed by Brake Fluid as a 3rd place contender.

 

[Crusty007]

I just stripped out the remaining original 5/16" threaded hole in the hub with my puller so it will have to be threaded larger now too. Put a bend into the central 1/2" bolt of my puller too. I really don't want to use heat because there's an alternator coil attached to the backside of the flywheel that I'd like to reuse and enough heat to free the hub could damage the coil. I'll look for some magic release product on my next trip to the hardware store, though it's already been soaking with WD40 for several days.

Have you ever tried any of these magic potions?

 

[islandguydon]

[@Guyfang]

I'm just getting back into the swing of things. I have a memory like a computer, so when I go back out to storage i'll rummage through a few containers and promptly get back to you, might even scan them into a PDF format and make a thread out of it to share with every one here, maybe patracy will include in the TM section, "anything goes" for members here, that's my motto..!

 

[Scoobyshep]

I swear by knocker loose. Good coating and applied heat works wonders. We use it at work on bearings that spend 16 plus hours a day under chlorinated water

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[Scoobyshep]

I just stripped out the remaining original 5/16" threaded hole in the hub with my puller so it will have to be threaded larger now too. Put a bend into the central 1/2" bolt of my puller too. I really don't want to use heat because there's an alternator coil attached to the backside of the flywheel that I'd like to reuse and enough heat to free the hub could damage the coil. I'll look for some magic release product on my next trip to the hardware store, though it's already been soaking with WD40 for several days.

Have you ever tried any of these magic potions?

Apply oil (heat if you can) apply pressure to the puller tap around the hub with a hammer. When it starts moving apply more to the puller

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[Guyfang]

At the risk of raising my head here, and I had just got to the point where I did not wake up in the morning thinking about the fan bolt............... Now after reading post 53-56, I may go back to dreaming about the bolt.

Anyway, we always used a bit of heat to get the fan off. I did not like flame, and used a heat shrink gun. Good solid wack with a weighted hammer, and most of the time it came off.