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M923 parts needed

graboid hunter

New member
14
0
1
Location
hillsborough, new jersey
Greetings all,

I've run into a couple of electrical problems with my NHC 250 M923 5 ton.
I've got a start / no start problem and a charging problem.

after replacing batteries, terminal ends and cleaning connections I narrowed it down to my Alternator failing and my PCB box is failing.

Does anyone have any for sale?????

thanks,

mike
Coast Guard Veteran in NJ
 

sandcobra164

Well-known member
2,999
295
83
Location
Leesburg, GA
Look in the classifieds. Member Fuzzytoaster over in Texas normally has good takeouts for about $90. A spare PCB is as important as a spare tire on these trucks. Buy 2 if you suspect that yours is bad so you have an extra one.
 

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,450
120
63
Location
Gray, GA
Greetings all,

I've run into a couple of electrical problems with my NHC 250 M923 5 ton.
I've got a start / no start problem and a charging problem.

after replacing batteries, terminal ends and cleaning connections I narrowed it down to my Alternator failing and my PCB box is failing.

Does anyone have any for sale?????

thanks,

mike
Coast Guard Veteran in NJ
Sort out the PCB first before you condemn the alternator. A bad PCB can cause charging problems since the exciter wire for the alternator is routed through it.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
I'm runnng an amazing deal on new genuine Delco 100 amp brushless alternators. Single B+ cable back to the starter and charging reliability is simplified, updated, and improved by 400%. All other wires can be abandonded. Don't spend time troubleshooting a failed old design. The way these trucks were initially laid out electrically is terrible. Fits all 6 cylinder diesel engines easily. PM me, the price is lower than you think to get one in your hands. Ask anybody who bought one, they never have to look at their volt gauge again, and it feels great dropping the original and it's problems in the trash can. By the way, Leece Neville, the manufacturer of the original alternators, is now owned by a Chinese washing machine motor company. Your PCB can be rebuilt with new 24v solenoids.

Thread should probably be moved to the parts wanted dept.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
PCB has 2 solenoids in it. One for each dash switch essentially. One is battery connect to truck (mostly dash power), and the second sends the crank signal to the starter. For the battery one, you should hear a click when flipping the battery switch on, and dash power comes alive.
 
Last edited:

MtnSnow

New member
1,466
14
0
Location
NSL, UT
Main Power Relay Troubleshooting

1. Verify PCB box has a good GROUND connection. Check resistance between the

body of the box to a good ground.

2. Verify correct battery polarity. Verify transmission in Neutral, brake set.

3. Verify 24 VDC at Term C (81)

a. No: check battery connections and wiring to PCB to get power to C (81)

b. Yes: proceed

4. Turn on BATTERY SWITCH – gages should activate

a. Yes: proceed to STARTER relay section below

b. No: Proceed…

5. Verify 24 VDC at Term A (459)

a. NO: Check Battery switch and wiring to get power to A (459)

b. YES: Check Term D – should be 24 VDC

i. YES: check wiring from Term D to loads (gages, alarms, etc)

ii. NO: PCB is bad; replace it or remove cover to

troubleshoot further.

6. With PCB cover removed and PCB plugged in, ground the chassis (backing plate)

that the relays are mounted on.

7. Verify power at Term C (81). Turn “ON” Battery Switch. Verify power at Term

A (459).

8. Check for power at Power Relay coil terminal (blue wire?):

a. NO: PCB circuitboard is bad – replace PCB. (verify by using jumper to

apply 24 VDC to coil terminal – relay should pull in, although it could be

bad too).

b. YES: if still no power at Term D (5) the relay is bad. Replace relay or

entire PCB.

Starter Relay Troubleshooting

1. Turn Battery Switch ON, verify gages are on.

2. Turn Ignition Switch to START.

a. Starter works : Done

b. No starter: proceed

3. Check Term E (499) for power while activating IGN/START switch::

a. NO: Check for power at wire 498 at the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS):

i. YES: check for power at wire 499 at NSS

1. NO: Check/Replace NSS (jumper it to confirm)

2. YES: check wire 499 from NSS to PCB

ii. NO: check Ignition Switch and wiring

b. YES: Check for power at Term B (74):

i. YES: check for continuity to starter solenoid; the starter solenoid

or starter may be bad

ii. NO: PCB is bad – replace PCB or proceed:

4. With PCB cover removed and PCB plugged in, ground the chassis (backing plate)

that the relays are mounted on.

5. Verify power at Terms A (459), C (81), and D (5).

6. Turn Ignition Switch to START. Verify power at Term E (499) Check for power

at coil terminal of starter relay (blue wire).

a. Yes: Check for power at Term B (74)

i. YES: Check wiring to starter, starter solenoid or starter may be

bad.

ii. NO: Starter relay in PCB is bad. Replace relay or entire

PCB.

b. No: PCB circuitboard is bad. Replace PCB. (Verify by applying 24 VDC

to relay output terminal/Term B (74) – starter should crank).
 

post 5466

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
46
9
8
Location
Taylorsville North Carolina
PCB has 2 solenoids in it. One for each dash switch essentially. One is battery connect to truck (mostly dash power), and the second sends the crank signal to the starter. For the battery one, you should hear a click when flipping the battery switch on, and dash power comes alive.
Please help I have a 900 series five ton that won’t start with switch also fuel shut off won’t retract I can get it crank by isolating the fuel shut off and jumping it at the starter with the power switched on something funky going on and my light switch but no click when you switch both power on no system check or anything could it be the PCB
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,125
9,384
113
Location
Mason, TN
Please help I have a 900 series five ton that won’t start with switch also fuel shut off won’t retract I can get it crank by isolating the fuel shut off and jumping it at the starter with the power switched on something funky going on and my light switch but no click when you switch both power on no system check or anything could it be the PCB
More than likely. Smack the pcb with a hammer with the switches on see if it comes on.

If not remove the bottom plug and use a large piece of wire to jump the two large plugs. See if that supplies power to your dash. It won't start with this jump. Its just to determine if the pcb is bad
 
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