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my new m35a2

HN6

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You did the pinion seals up top on the axles as well? Those ended up being worse than the wheel bearing seals on mine.
Well... actually I skipped those. I still have it in the shop so maybe ill do those as now. Thanks for the guilt trip I mean the motivation!
 

Dipstick

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Yes I had removed those axle vents and cleaned them and thought they were OK a while back. Then one day I was checking the gear oil level and when I cracked loose the plug I could hear the air escaping. I did all the axle vents the same way with tubing brought to the firewall. Honestly I did not know the t-case and trans had these vents too until reading another thread in this forum. Wish they were easier to get to.
I'm pretty sure you can just crawl under the truck, reach up an wiggle the caps on both. I'll probably take the transmission tunnel cover off to replace mine. I'm just wondering what the clearance is and if I'll need to use a 90 deg. street elbow to reduce the height.
 

Dipstick

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Yes I had removed those axle vents and cleaned them and thought they were OK a while back. Then one day I was checking the gear oil level and when I cracked loose the plug I could hear the air escaping. I did all the axle vents the same way with tubing brought to the firewall. Honestly I did not know the t-case and trans had these vents too until reading another thread in this forum. Wish they were easier to get to.
That just happened to me a month ago. I took the front axle vent off and when the last thread came clear I couldn't believe the pressure behind the puff of air. I had just replaced my front inner axle seals, bearings, and brakes the previous Summer. The seals held thankfully.
 

cattlerepairman

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I had a similar experience. Installed brass hose barbs in place of the axle vents, ran a clear plastic hose up to the bed crossmember or firewall for front axle, terminated hose with a cheapo small engine fuel filter, and presto. No more stupid sticking axle vents....and better water proofing in the event I do get into deeper water.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 

HN6

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Yes I had removed those axle vents and cleaned them and thought they were OK a while back. Then one day I was checking the gear oil level and when I cracked loose the plug I could hear the air escaping. I did all the axle vents the same way with tubing brought to the firewall. Honestly I did not know the t-case and trans had these vents too until reading another thread in this forum. Wish they were easier to get to.
tcase and transmission vent locations...

mine is still tore apart. trying to decide how to cut the cab apart to do the crew cab... i am currently in slow season and not working a lot so I have lots of time for the new project in between small welding jobs coming in.
 

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Dipstick

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HN6 yours was a useful post for me. Your pictures reminded me of where the T-case and tranny vents are. Now I can plan on how I'm going to replace those vents. Thank you!
 

Dipstick

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I had a similar experience. Installed brass hose barbs in place of the axle vents, ran a clear plastic hose up to the bed crossmember or firewall for front axle, terminated hose with a cheapo small engine fuel filter, and presto. No more stupid sticking axle vents....and better water proofing in the event I do get into deeper water.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
Mr. Cattlerepairman.....I've been wanting to know for a long time.....what the heck is a SM-G950W and Tapatalk????
 

Dipstick

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90 Degree Threaded Hose Elbows.jpg
How often do you get this lucky? I went down to my basement shop for the 723 rd time yesterday looking for a bolt for Brutus. I opened one of my nut and bolt drawers and found two 1/8" NPT 90 degree hose barb fittings! Praise Jesus!!! I probably bought those things 30 years ago. Anyway, I replaced my transmission vent with one and a 9" length of 1/4" fuel hose. Kind of like a slobber tube. So it's vented about 45" above the ground. Transfer case is next. I also finished bolting and welding in my patch for my rusted drivers' side floor. I didn't take any photos because I'd be ashamed to show my finished results. At least I won't be driving a Fred Flintstone car this winter.
 

HN6

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Front axle time... looks like it has been dropped at one time. brake shoes are bent on both driver and passenger side. Bearings toast on driver side. This is starting to be real work as I keep adding items. I did a comparison on Boyce's site and I figure when I am done with all upgrades it will have a hypothetical value of about 35K. Makes me feel better to think of it that way.
 

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HN6

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Easier way of removing races if you happen to have a stuck race and welder. Weld a bead all the way around race and it will fall out on first tap.

Damaged spindle and threads.. tig welded the grove. Fixed it up a little. Tired of buying parts. Bearing and races were no good on front axle. Passenger side had 2 inner bearings. Had bearings, and races delivered from Anchorage for $28 and they sent me the incorrect order.. mistakes happen but a bummer when its a 2 hr drive for parts.

Front axle made it to the ground today.
 

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NY Tom

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I purchased the bearings and races from Amazon believe it or not best price I could find and fast delivery.
Timken 3920 for the race.
Timken 392 outer I think
Timken 3994 inner
Just in case you did not have these numbers.
 
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HN6

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I purchased the bearings and races from Amazon believe it or not best price I could find and fast delivery.
Timken 3920 for the race.
Timken 392 outer I think
Timken 3994 inner
Just in case you did not have these numbers.
Thanks. I had the numbers off the ones I removed. I gave the numbers to the bearing store and instead of shipping (2) 3994 they sent (2) 394A a smaller race. I had a friend pick up the correct bearings in Anchorage today.
 

Dipstick

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Front axle time... looks like it has been dropped at one time. brake shoes are bent on both driver and passenger side. Bearings toast on driver side. This is starting to be real work as I keep adding items. I did a comparison on Boyce's site and I figure when I am done with all upgrades it will have a hypothetical value of about 35K. Makes me feel better to think of it that way.
I had damaged front brake linings too. Someone left two 3/8" steel nuts in the drum. I didn't have the bent shoes you do though. I wonder what could have caused them to bend inward like that? That's some pretty thick steel. I see you have a new pair of hubs too.
 

HN6

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I had damaged front brake linings too. Someone left two 3/8" steel nuts in the drum. I didn't have the bent shoes you do though. I wonder what could have caused them to bend inward like that? That's some pretty thick steel. I see you have a new pair of hubs too.

Pretty positive it fell while jacked up with both fronts removed. both sides are cratered showing that she plowed straight to the ground. Installed a locker in the front hub today and will add the Boyce hubs.
 

NY Tom

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Pretty positive it fell while jacked up with both fronts removed. both sides are cratered showing that she plowed straight to the ground. Installed a locker in the front hub today and will add the Boyce hubs.
Yeah must be crazy to have a truck like this drop while jacked up. I had mine with wooden cribbing supporting the front of the frame while the front axle was out. Old timer neighbor came and gave me so many horror stories I had to get some jackstands to put under the cab area just in case.
 

Dipstick

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Pretty positive it fell while jacked up with both fronts removed. both sides are cratered showing that she plowed straight to the ground. Installed a locker in the front hub today and will add the Boyce hubs.
Of course. I should have realized it was dropped. I had my front end up in the air on my driveway for two weeks. I used 6" x 6" lumber under the jack stands and never got under the truck while it was up. Glad my driveway held up. Nice welding by the way! Thank you for the pictures. I'm impressed by the effort you're putting into this!
 

cattlerepairman

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You are not kidding when you say that axle took a beating. One assumes it happened during active service? I wonder why they didn't simply swap an axle in.

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