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WMO pump to drive centrifuge

HelluvaEngineer

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I recently ordered an oil filter type centrifuge from the PA bio guy. Now I need to make it work. The supplier seems to recommend a 1/3-1/2 HP continuous duty motor and a carbonizer pump, which I understand is a vane type pump and used in the foodservice industry (think that's right). Like everything, there are advantages and disadvantages to vane style pumps. My initial thought was "why not use an auto pump?" I know they will make 100+ psi if you shim the bypass. Speaking of that they have a bypass, which may eliminate another part. Gear style pumps do well with high viscosity fluids, like cold oil. Most importantly, I have old (and new) Chevy Melling pumps sitting around in my parts bins.

I bounced the idea of using one of these off the PA guy and he nicely told me that's a pretty dumb idea. I still don't understand why. I was thinking about putting the pump in the drum, attaching to a housing I would fabricate, and putting a driveshaft in the middle of that. The motor would sit on top of the barrel, mounted to (something) and hopefully stay away from most of the heat. That would allow me to hard plumb a lot of the connections using copper or AL tubing, which I think would be nice. The pump would sit in the oil and therefore be well lubricated.

I know a lot of others are using power steering pumps. To me, this seems like a decent idea. I have welders, plasma cutters, even a lathe, so I don't think it will look that bad. The only thing I can think of is I may need to use pulleys to get the pump up to ~3000 rpm. So please chime in - is this a stupid idea?
 

reset2

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I'm thinking engine oil pumps pump a lot of oil. Shouldn't need that much RPMs but just guessing. Do a mockup first.

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coachgeo

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I'm thinking engine oil pumps pump a lot of oil. Shouldn't need that much RPMs but just guessing. Do a mockup first.

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put in a bypass to bleed off oil before centrifuge as a way to regulate the psi. To high psi causes damage.. and also if I understand this right it honestly does not clean as well cause oil gets pushed out to soon with contaminates still in it.
 

Reworked LMTV

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I have a centrifuge, the standard kind. I studied everything I could on these. The PA Biodiesel guy seems to lack an basic understanding of physics. This is my prototype, capable of processing 200-300 gallons a day or so. Have not run the 3116 on any of it yet. Tractor likes it. Looking closely at flash point testing. You really should post process WMO with a filter, like the sock filters from Duda, in case something gets missed.
 

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davidb56

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I have a centrifuge, the standard kind. I studied everything I could on these. The PA Biodiesel guy seems to lack an basic understanding of physics. This is my prototype, capable of processing 200-300 gallons a day or so. Have not run the 3116 on any of it yet. Tractor likes it. Looking closely at flash point testing. You really should post process WMO with a filter, like the sock filters from Duda, in case something gets missed.
where did you get the centrifuge from? I seen 2 companies that sell them for about 1200$. they are gravity fed.
 

davidb56

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I got a lot to learn about cleaning up oil and removing the water. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/503/removing-water-in-oil What Ive learned is that with a centrifuge purifier, detention time is important to remove the solids, and venting for the water vapors. So how does a pump driven centrifuge retain the oil for the required "bowl time" before discharging it, if oil pressure/gpm is used for spinning the bowl? Also in order to have proper rpm/g force, wouldn't the oil be discharged before spending time in the bowl? Wouldn't a motor driven centrifuge allow you to adjust retention/separation time, without effecting turbine speed to keep the g force up? Also, the pump driven centrifuges Ive looked into for running off engine oil pressure or a stationary pump, dont seem to have a vapor vent for heated oil. The PA rep that said running a automotive oil pump was dumb, had better study more on equipment/commercial truck mounted centrifuge oil purifiers, because thats exactly what they run off of....engine oil pressure.
 
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reset2

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Myersville MD
My take is the least expensive way to clean oil is blend gasoline with motor oil let stand a couple weeks and pour off the bottom gallon out of a 5 gallon bucket. Second to pre settle then a oil pressure driven centrifuge. And the best is pre settle gravity feed heated oil though a motor driven centrifuge .
Price goes up with each one and so does quality.

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HelluvaEngineer

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Atlanta, GA
No problem. You can get a new one with a lifetime warranty from most parts stores for under $50. Then I use an adapter fitting to go to my hydraulic line that feeds the centrifuge. Works great.
What are those devices on top with the tee fitting? I looked up that company and found temp and pressure sensors. Did you already have those or something? Safety cutoff switches?

Also, does anything in that rig actually need hydraulic lines? I can't imagine things going much above 120 PSI but welcome your perspective.

EDIT: OK, brainfart. Looks like PS pumps can go up to 2200 PSI. Wow.
 

Welder1

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Albany Ga
I got a lot to learn about cleaning up oil and removing the water. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/503/removing-water-in-oil What Ive learned is that with a centrifuge purifier, detention time is important to remove the solids, and venting for the water vapors. So how does a pump driven centrifuge retain the oil for the required "bowl time" before discharging it, if oil pressure/gpm is used for spinning the bowl? Also in order to have proper rpm/g force, wouldn't the oil be discharged before spending time in the bowl? Wouldn't a motor driven centrifuge allow you to adjust retention/separation time, without effecting turbine speed to keep the g force up? Also, the pump driven centrifuges Ive looked into for running off engine oil pressure or a stationary pump, dont seem to have a vapor vent for heated oil. The PA rep that said running a automotive oil pump was dumb, had better study more on equipment/commercial truck mounted centrifuge oil purifiers, because thats exactly what they run off of....engine oil pressure.
I polish my mix after settling with a filter and pressure driven centrifuge. I do it 55 gallons at a time and usually run it for more than 20 hrs.
 

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Mr4btTahoe

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Indiana
Looks very similar to what we do. We batch 55 gallons at a time and run for 40 hours in a loop (pressure release returned to pump inlet instead of the drum).

Haven't had any issues after a few thousand gallons.

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San Bernardino area, CA
Now I'm no expert , maybe I'll get a few thumbs down for this , i filter my used oil/gear oil/hydro/ etc. through shirts with magnets into a 5 gallon bucket , it drips through a hose into a clean bucket. Right into the fuel tank it goes.
I took a sharpie and wrote " centrifuge" on the bucket. Maybe I'm abusive on my truck. Kind of like I use house paint to paint it.

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davidb56

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Bonners Ferry Idaho
Heads up...I bought a air operated barrel pump from HFT. Its junk. at 8 psi to get the oil to flow, it pressurized the barrel into a foot ball, ruining it for reuse. I assumed it was a little piston pump when I bought it, but it just adds air into the barrel, forcing the oil up the tube. THEN, the damn thing won't unscrew, because it also distorts the barrel bung thread collar.
 

sorensonsc

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Bellevue, NE
This might be a really stupid idea but what about using an old washing machine. Line the basket with heavy duty cloth (I have a roll of the material that surgical masks are made from), put it on spin and collect the outlet hose into a tank of some sort. You could install magnets to the inside of the basket to attract any steel pieces. Mount your dirty oil tank higher than the washer inlet and let it gravity feed into the machine. Then if you use a regular wash/rinse cycle it will process a lot more oil. Not sure how often you would need to change the filters. You could tape a couple hundred coffee filters to the inside of the basket....
As you probably already figured out, I'm new to WMO/WVO.
 
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Reworked LMTV

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TN
This might be a really stupid idea but what about using an old washing machine. Line the basket with heavy duty cloth (I have a roll of the material that surgical masks are made from), put it on spin and collect the outlet hose into a tank of some sort. You could install magnets to the inside of the basket to attract any steel pieces. Mount your dirty oil tank higher than the washer inlet and let it gravity feed into the machine. Then if you use a regular wash/rinse cycle it will process a lot more oil. Not sure how often you would need to change the filters. You could tape a couple hundred coffee filters to the inside of the basket....
As you probably already figured out, I'm new to WMO/WVO.
The typical centrifuge turns around 3000's G's. Honestly, you would be better off using a smaller, air driven centrifuge on a 55 gallon drum. They are not too expensive.
 
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