Mep 105a generator 60 kw

[Aquatictree]

I have a mep 105a (2 actually) that I am trying to get working so I can run some 3phase equipment. Batteries hooked up for 24volts, I've got power to the starter switch and battle switch, and all the test lights work on the panel. I get power across the switch when pressed from run to start but nothing happens. The fuel pump does not get power either. I can turn the engine over by shorting the starter. The watt transducer (behind the panel) was leaking so I found another one that was not leaking but not new and replaced it.
I need the unit to run as 3phase so I don't mind staying with the mil spec wiring but then I don't mind changing up the wiring however in order to use this unit. Any information on the unit or where I get help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.

 

[Guyfang]

What you mean is you have two MEP-105A, Precise Power gen sets?

The set will not turn the engine over?
Have you downloaded the TM's? Maybe read the -12 operators TM?
Are there any missing parts?
Have you ever seen the set run right?
Have you fixed anything on the set, prior to trying to start it?


When you push in CB1, (DC circuit Breaker), turn on the S2, (Start, Run Prime switch) to Prime/Run, and flip up the S7, (Battle Short Switch) the DS7, (Battle Short Light) comes on, and you hear NO Electric fuel pumps running? Or just a slow "ticking"?

Are any idiot lights on when you put the set in Prime/run position?

Is the Day tank full, or half full, or empty?

 

[Aquatictree]

I do have 2 mep 105a generator sets. 1 of the sets looks like it was never run. Clean empty tank, no oily dust anywhere, no cracked paint etc, but the electrical panels were unplugged and removed. The set that I am working on has 1800 hrs on it, allis chalmers looks great , clean oil, antifreeze, full clean tank, clean fuel out of filter drains etc.
The watt transducer was leaking gunk, so I replaced it with a used one.
I'm not sure I tried to start it the way you described so I will shortly.
I don't hear the fuel pumps doing anything.
I haven't read the tm's , I guess I can find that on this site somewhere?
Thanks for all help.

 

[Guyfang]

Click here.
All the TM's You need for the MEP-006A

I wasnt tell you how to start it, just how to "force" the fuel pumps to come on. With the S2 in the run position, and the S7 in the up position, the e-fuel pumps should come on. If the day tank is NOT full. Thats why I asked all the questions.

 

[Aquatictree]

With the switch on, the under volt, under freq and low oil pressure lights come on. With battle short switch on the battle short light comes on. Engine prime switch on but no ticking or anything else from the fuel pump.
I don't see a tm for the 105a generator set, am I just not finding it? Can I use another tm. May for the 006 set?

 

[Guyfang]

Read the cover. The TM is for three different gen sets. They are all 99.99 percent the same. The MEP-006A is the Utility set. That means no electric governor and actuator. The MEP-105A it the Precise Power model. Has a E-gov and Act. The MEP-115A is the precise power, (E-gov and Act) BUT, it makes 400 hertz power.

OK. The three lights on the Fault Indicator is normal. When its not running, you have Under volt, under freq and low oil press.

The fault indcator lights tell you, you have 24 VDC to the control panel. Are your Battery's tip top charged up? If not, the set will not start. Each battery should show at least 12+ volts.

Now, go around to the S9 (speed switch) Its on the left side, when you stand at the control panel. Front door. It should look something like this, but will be in a horizontal Position.
It has a C-plug, (canon plug) on it. Thats J37. Unscrew J37. get a paper clip. Hold the C37 in your left hand, and squint at the plug end. When you see the letters next to pins, (holes) A and B, insect the straightened out paper clip into the two holes. Then go around to the S1 and place it in the STAR position. Will the engine crank over?

 

[Aquatictree]

Read the cover. The TM is for three different gen sets. They are all 99.99 percent the same. The MEP-006A is the Utility set. That means no electric governor and actuator. The MEP-105A it the Precise Power model. Has a E-gov and Act. The MEP-115A is the precise power, (E-gov and Act) BUT, it makes 400 hertz power.

OK. The three lights on the Fault Indicator is normal. When its not running, you have Under volt, under freq and low oil press.

The fault indcator lights tell you, you have 24 VDC to the control panel. Are your Battery's tip top charged up? If not, the set will not start. Each battery should show at least 12+ volts.

Now, go around to the S9 (speed switch) Its on the left side, when you stand at the control panel. Front door. It should look something like this, but will be in a horizontal Position.View attachment 821877
It has a C-plug, (canon plug) on it. Thats J37. Unscrew J37. get a paper clip. Hold the C37 in your left hand, and squint at the plug end. When you see the letters next to pins, (holes) A and B, insect the straightened out paper clip into the two holes. Then go around to the S1 and place it in the STAR position. Will the engine crank over?

,,

 

[Aquatictree]

The batteries are fully charged. Placing a paperclip in a and b and the unit still doesn't try to turn over

 

[Guyfang]

OK. That means your S9 is good. Its often the problem with a no start problem. Hard to get.

Next, open the control panel door. Look at the A4 card, (control panel relay assy.) ad tell me its got 2 relays plugged into it. Then see if it has burn spots on it. Then undo the 4 nuts on the back of the card and pull the card forward. Is there burn spots? Is there a solder trace burned up? Then check to see if the wires are hooked up right. Look at the attachment #1.

Then, Push in CB1, turn S1 to the start position, and mesure on the A4 card terminals, A4-2 and A4-8, to a good ground. Do you have 24 VDC?

 

[Aquatictree]

OK. That means your S9 is good. Its often the problem with a no start problem. Hard to get.

Next, open the control panel door. Look at the A4 card, (control panel relay assy.) ad tell me its got 2 relays plugged into it. Then see if it has burn spots on it. Then undo the 4 nuts on the back of the card and pull the card forward. Is there burn spots? Is there a solder trace burned up? Then check to see if the wires are hooked up right. Look at the attachment #1.

Then, Push in CB1, turn S1 to the start position, and mesure on the A4 card terminals, A4-2 and A4-8, to a good ground. Do you have 24 VDC?

So a4 card looks good. No burn spots and solder on back look perfect. It does have 2 relays plugged into it and all the wires are hooked up just like in the attachment.
Thank you for your time.

 

[Guyfang]

Then, Push in CB1, turn S1 to the start position, and measure on the A4 card terminals, A4-2 and A4-8, to a good ground. Do you have 24 VDC?

Did you measure here? Its the Start, Stop and Run circuit. If it is not working, then the set should not run.

 

[Aquatictree]

Then, Push in CB1, turn S1 to the start position, and measure on the A4 card terminals, A4-2 and A4-8, to a good ground. Do you have 24 VDC?

Did you measure here? Its the Start, Stop and Run circuit. If it is not working, then the set should not run.

I couldn't find a cb1 to push in. S1 in start position a4-2 and a4-8 neither have 24 volts. Also tried with battle short switch on and dc breaker pushed in.

 

[Guyfang]

CB1 is the DC circuit Breaker.

If you have no voltage at the A4 card, we need to get deeper into the wire diagrams. Will take a look so later on today, grand kids and I are alone in the house. I need eyes in the back of my head.

 

[Aquatictree]

CB1 is the DC circuit Breaker.

If you have no voltage at the A4 card, we need to get deeper into the wire diagrams. Will take a look so later on today, grand kids and I are alone in the house. I need eyes in the back of my head.

Thank you again for your time.
Enjoy those kids.

 

[Guyfang]

So. I survived the New Year goat rope. Not that there was much going on. Curfew is 21:00. Pyrotechnics were forbidden. It was wet, cold and simply not nice. Thank the Lord, the Ruski's are about the worlds worst followers of orders. THEY lit the night up!

Now, to work. I think we need to take a closer look see at the Special Relay box. Sadly, no one has taken a picture of it, so I can show you what it looks like. Open the left side door. The control panel end of any gen set is the rear, so now you have orientation. It should be about the middle of the relay table. It has a million cables and canon plugs going to it. The cover has a bracket to hold the non conducting wrench.

If I remember right, it should have six 7/16 bolts holding it down. Undo the C-Plugs. Don't need to mark anything, the C-plugs only attach one way. Pull out the box. Open the cover. Lets see if everything is in it. That's not always how it is when you open it up. We want to check the K3 relay. That's the start relay. Then we want to see it the A5 card is in there and if its got burned marks on it. Like whats posted below.

Burn marks do not mean it totaled. But its also a bad sign.





Check the wires against the attached list.

 

[Aquatictree]

Ok, so R3 on the A5 card looks like it might be burnt , not as bad as in your photo but I can seen either light burning on the back of the card or the shadow of the resistor I think its called. My special relay box was missing the cover plate and 2 of the relays had the screws missing but everything looks intact and unmolested.
Also to note, I connected the batteries back and tried to start the set again (you never know) before pulling the box and the reverse power fault light came and stayed on. Tm says that means the set is getting 20% more power than rated. If I'm not mistaken. My batteries read 25.2 volts inline so I'm not sure why that light has decided to come on. I dis and reconnected power several times and the light remained on.
Thank you again for your time.

 

[Guyfang]

Ok, so R3 on the A5 card looks like it might be burnt , not as bad as in your photo but I can seen either light burning on the back of the card or the shadow of the resistor I think its called.
Are you up to testing the R3? Do you know how? Willing? If not, i know someone in the forum who will test it.
My special relay box was missing the cover plate and 2 of the relays had the screws missing but everything looks intact and unmolested. The relays also need to be tested. I do not think they are hard to test, but that's up to you. Once you know the relays and the R3 are good, or the R3 is replaced, the A5 card needs testing. Again, I don't think its hard, but I did this for a living. If you are not up to it or don't want to do these tests and or repairs, this is something any competent electrician can do. Or you send it to someone who can. If you have a soldering iron and want to try, I will walk you through it.

Also to note, I connected the batteries back and tried to start the set again (you never know) before pulling the box and the reverse power fault light came and stayed on. Tm says that means the set is getting 20% more power than rated. If I'm not mistaken. (If the set can not start, this has to be an erroneous fault.) My batteries read 25.2 volts inline so I'm not sure why that light has decided to come on. I dis and reconnected power several times (where?) and the light remained on. The A9, (fault Indicator) is world famous for lights coming on, for no reason. There is an SCR in them that can become defect, and the light comes on and stays on. I assume you tried to reset the light on the A9, and that had no effect? The set runs quite fine with out the A9. There is nothing in it to stop the set from starting and running.
Thank you again for your time.

Open to read what I wrote.

 

[Aquatictree]

Open to read what I wrote.

I'd be up for testing everything myself if you can tell me how.
I dis and reconnected the power by disconnecting the batteries.

 

[Guyfang]

No need to do the battery thing. Just pop the CB1. All the electrical components will de-energize. BUT, there is always a but. it is possible to get bit in the special relay box, when its hooked up and CB1 is popped

Lets start simple. I would suggest testing the A4 card first. Its easier, and you can get a feel for doing this stuff. AND, when you are done, if its good, you can pop the 3 silver relays out of the A5 card and test them. Its straight forward. This is not hard, and you just need to keep in mind it can bite if you don't pay attention.

We are going to do this out of order. The relay test is easier to do, and goes fast. So gather up the relays from the A5 and hold them in ready.

1. take the A4 card out and put it someplace near the gen set. Close to the battery box or the slave receptacle.

2. Cut two pieces of wire long enough to go from where you are working on the A4 card, and the slave recpt. or battery's.

3. Look at, (read) the attachment I added to this post. Go to paragraph d. There it tells you to hook up the wires to terminals #8 & #2.

4. Then stick the two wires into the slave recpt holes or have someone hold them to the main + and - battery terminals. You should hear a klick.

5. This should be K1 relay we are testing. Set up your MM, (multimeter) for ohms. touch the two leads to terminals #7 & #9. You should have NO continuity.

6. This step is not listed in the book, but do it anyhow. Place your MM leads on terminals #1 & #3. You should get continuity.

7. Remove the wires from the slave recpt or battery's. Make the same measurements. You should have the opposite readings.

8. You have now tested the A4 card for the operation of K1 relay. If everything tests right, then good. Then test all the other relays from A5 as well as the K6 relay from the A4 card. This way you KNOW they are all good.

Beer break



Now back to work.

1. Go back to paragraph b. Read it. Take the A4 to your work bench, where I hope you have a 120 volt outlet.

2. Go find something with an electrical plug on it, that you do not need any more. Cut it off, as long as you can. Strip back the ends about a centimeter or so.

3. Connect the ends to terminals #4 & #12. Plug in the plug. This is where you need to take some care. 120 VAC will bite when you don't pay attention.

4. Set up your MM for AC voltage. Place the leads on terminals #6 & #10. It should read 120 VAC. If that is the case, set your MM up for ohms, and measure terminals #10 & #5 and #6 & #11. There should be no continuity.

5. If the measurements are all good, disconnect the 120 volt plug, and retest the terminals. #5 & #10 and #6 & #11. You should get continuity.

If that all worked out right, you have completely checked out the A4 card, and its GOOD.

 

[Aquatictree]

Tha

No need to do the battery thing. Just pop the CB1. All the electrical components will de-energize. BUT, there is always a but. it is possible to get bit in the special relay box, when its hooked up and CB1 is popped

Lets start simple. I would suggest testing the A4 card first. Its easier, and you can get a feel for doing this stuff. AND, when you are done, if its good, you can pop the 3 silver relays out of the A5 card and test them. Its straight forward. This is not hard, and you just need to keep in mind it can bite if you don't pay attention.

We are going to do this out of order. The relay test is easier to do, and goes fast. So gather up the relays from the A5 and hold them in ready.

1. take the A4 card out and put it someplace near the gen set. Close to the battery box or the slave receptacle.

2. Cut two pieces of wire long enough to go from where you are working on the A4 card, and the slave recpt. or battery's.

3. Look at, (read) the attachment I added to this post. Go to paragraph d. There it tells you to hook up the wires to terminals #8 & #2.

4. Then stick the two wires into the slave recpt holes or have someone hold them to the main + and - battery terminals. You should hear a klick.

5. This should be K1 relay we are testing. Set up your MM, (multimeter) for ohms. touch the two leads to terminals #7 & #9. You should have NO continuity.

6. This step is not listed in the book, but do it anyhow. Place your MM leads on terminals #1 & #3. You should get continuity.

7. Remove the wires from the slave recpt or battery's. Make the same measurements. You should have the opposite readings.

8. You have now tested the A4 card for the operation of K1 relay. If everything tests right, then good. Then test all the other relays from A5 as well as the K6 relay from the A4 card. This way you KNOW they are all good.

Beer break

View attachment 822429

Now back to work.

1. Go back to paragraph b. Read it. Take the A4 to your work bench, where I hope you have a 120 volt outlet.

2. Go find something with an electrical plug on it, that you do not need any more. Cut it off, as long as you can. Strip back the ends about a centimeter or so.

3. Connect the ends to terminals #4 & #12. Plug in the plug. This is where you need to take some care. 120 VAC will bite when you don't pay attention.

4. Set up your MM for AC voltage. Place the leads on terminals #6 & #10. It should read 120 VAC. If that is the case, set your MM up for ohms, and measure terminals #10 & #5 and #6 & #11. There should be no continuity.

5. If the measurements are all good, disconnect the 120 volt plug, and retest the terminals. #5 & #10 and #6 & #11. You should get continuity.

If that all worked out right, you have completely checked out the A4 card, and its GOOD.

Thanks, I should have time tomorrow.