CDR Valve

[Tailwheel]

Where can I pick up a new one for my M1008? I might try to clean mine but its obvious its never been cleaned since it was installed in 1985.

 

[Sharecropper]

Where can I pick up a new one for my M1008? I might try to clean mine but its obvious its never been cleaned since it was installed in 1985.

Hillbilly Wizard has them. Brand new. $20.

 

[tom lovinggood]

They are for sale on E-bay all the time. Search under CUCV

 

[Tailwheel]

Thanks, I picked up a NOS vented oil cap and NOS CDR valve from Hillbilly Wizard. It would be a real shame to get this engine back together and blow a seal because of a CDR issue. I also found the metal bypass tube, which is integral to the oil fill tube and CDR system, to be completely crushed. I ordered a NOS oil fill tube and a new rubber grommet on eBay.

I do believe my current CDR is just fine. I removed it and cleaned it in a warm water and dawn dish-soap mixture in the kitchen sink. I filled it with the mixture and shook it really good. I got a very small amount of oil out of it, but not much, and it was clean after two quick rinsing's. I scrubbed the outside case and cleaned up the tiny orifice hole on the top of the can.

Here's how I redneck tested it. I blew gently on tiny hole on the top of the can to move the diaphragm and listened to make sure it was moving. You can hear when begins moving and when it bottoms. I then blew on the hole again while pouring water from the faucet through it and sure enough, it instantly stopped all water flow. It barely takes any air to move the diaphragm. I believe that is a quick way to check the CDR. Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[Keith_J]

Thanks, I picked up a NOS vented oil cap and NOS CDR valve from Hillbilly Wizard. It would be a real shame to get this engine back together and blow a seal because of a CDR issue. I also found the metal bypass tube, which is integral to the oil fill tube and CDR system, to be completely crushed. I ordered a NOS oil fill tube and a new rubber grommet on eBay.

I do believe my current CDR is just fine. I removed it and cleaned it in a warm water and dawn dish-soap mixture in the kitchen sink. I filled it with the mixture and shook it really good. I got a very small amount of oil out of it, but not much, and it was clean after two quick rinsing's. I scrubbed the outside case and cleaned up the tiny orifice hole on the top of the can.

Here's how I redneck tested it. I blew gently on tiny hole on the top of the can to move the diaphragm and listened to make sure it was moving. You can hear when begins moving and when it bottoms. I then blew on the hole again while pouring water from the faucet through it and sure enough, it instantly stopped all water flow. It barely takes any air to move the diaphragm. I believe that is a quick way to check the CDR. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Perfect test method. It is a pressure regulator so a diaphragm and spring work together. Most common failure is rupture of the diaphragm, second is plugging. When the diaphragm fails, there will be oily dirt around the vent hole. Plugged CDR will cause oily dirt around the vented oil fill cap.

A back flush of the oil fill cap with solvent is a good idea every oil change.

 

[Tailwheel]

Perfect test method. It is a pressure regulator so a diaphragm and spring work together. Most common failure is rupture of the diaphragm, second is plugging. When the diaphragm fails, there will be oily dirt around the vent hole. Plugged CDR will cause oily dirt around the vented oil fill cap.

A back flush of the oil fill cap with solvent is a good idea every oil change.

So while cleaning and painting the parts that came off the engine I found that someone has used the oil fill tube as a pry bar pivot. It completely crushed the tube that feeds the CDR. Could have been why my truck leaked oil like crazy. I replaced it with a NOS HMMWV fill tube yesterday along with a new grommet.

 

[LT67]

I cleaned both of mine by pouring gas in them and letting it soak for a few minutes. Just blew it out with air afterwards and let them dry before reinstalling. They work just fine..

 

[Bigwill75]

Thanks, I picked up a NOS vented oil cap and NOS CDR valve from Hillbilly Wizard. It would be a real shame to get this engine back together and blow a seal because of a CDR issue. I also found the metal bypass tube, which is integral to the oil fill tube and CDR system, to be completely crushed. I ordered a NOS oil fill tube and a new rubber grommet on eBay.

I do believe my current CDR is just fine. I removed it and cleaned it in a warm water and dawn dish-soap mixture in the kitchen sink. I filled it with the mixture and shook it really good. I got a very small amount of oil out of it, but not much, and it was clean after two quick rinsing's. I scrubbed the outside case and cleaned up the tiny orifice hole on the top of the can.

Here's how I redneck tested it. I blew gently on tiny hole on the top of the can to move the diaphragm and listened to make sure it was moving. You can hear when begins moving and when it bottoms. I then blew on the hole again while pouring water from the faucet through it and sure enough, it instantly stopped all water flow. It barely takes any air to move the diaphragm. I believe that is a quick way to check the CDR. Correct me if I'm wrong.

did you mean to say vented oil cap? I don’t think this cdr system works with a vented oil cap. You still need some crankcase pressure just not too much. Having none will also cause seals to leak

Thanks, I picked up a NOS vented oil cap and NOS CDR valve from Hillbilly Wizard. It would be a real shame to get this engine back together and blow a seal because of a CDR issue. I also found the metal bypass tube, which is integral to the oil fill tube and CDR system, to be completely crushed. I ordered a NOS oil fill tube and a new rubber grommet on eBay.

I do believe my current CDR is just fine. I removed it and cleaned it in a warm water and dawn dish-soap mixture in the kitchen sink. I filled it with the mixture and shook it really good. I got a very small amount of oil out of it, but not much, and it was clean after two quick rinsing's. I scrubbed the outside case and cleaned up the tiny orifice hole on the top of the can.

Here's how I redneck tested it. I blew gently on tiny hole on the top of the can to move the diaphragm and listened to make sure it was moving. You can hear when begins moving and when it bottoms. I then blew on the hole again while pouring water from the faucet through it and sure enough, it instantly stopped all water flow. It barely takes any air to move the diaphragm. I believe that is a quick way to check the CDR. Correct me if I'm wrong.

did you mean to say vented oil cap? I don’t think these cdr or pcv valve systems work with a vented cap. You still need some crankcase pressure just not too much. No crankcase pressure will cause seals to leak to hence the valve to regulate pressure. I could be wrong.