Having electrical issues; advice needed!

[dom1986ck30]

Aloha, I am doing an interior harness replacement. I have attached pics. I am stuck as I have connected the engine harness to the 'New' stock harness, from Hillbilly Wizard. It is an original harness from another CUCV of the 1984-1986 years. I have replace the ignition switch with an AC Delco part. I reworked the original ignition and it is in good shape, I believe. I have ran most of the interior wiring to their respected places. I am focusing on starting right now, then I will complete the auxiliary and other interior wirings. The connection to the engine harness seems fine. I connected the starter relay, (see pic.) I have referenced from the pics I took prior to the project. The reason I replaced new and installed the starter relay is because this all happened when I started a fire and now I have new batteries. 880 amp/1080cc amps. optima batteries. All terminals replaced new. I feel like I have connected the engine compartment back to the way it was and am now not understanding why I do not get a light on my tester when I touch anything on the replaced interior harness fuse block. Please help... Also, just to be clear, I have the T.M. circuit diagrams. All of them... Any and all help is appreciated... I miss driving this thing

 

[Curtisje]

I'm sure a lot of us would like to help but you need to ask a question first. What do you need help with? From the looks of those pictures you have a mess on your hands. Is the truck converted to 12 volt or is it still 24 volt? It looks like it wss converted to 12v.

 

[dom1986ck30]

Hi Curtisje... I suppose I could ask the question first. How do I get the truck started after I plug in the new interior harness at the fuse box to engine harness? What connections are to complete the starting system? Trouble shooting of this is in question. Thanks...

 

[dougco1]

Aloha, I am doing an interior harness replacement. I have attached pics. I am stuck as I have connected the engine harness to the 'New' stock harness, from Hillbilly Wizard. It is an original harness from another CUCV of the 1984-1986 years. I have replace the ignition switch with an AC Delco part. I reworked the original ignition and it is in good shape, I believe. I have ran most of the interior wiring to their respected places. I am focusing on starting right now, then I will complete the auxiliary and other interior wirings. The connection to the engine harness seems fine. I connected the starter relay, (see pic.) I have referenced from the pics I took prior to the project. The reason I replaced new and installed the starter relay is because this all happened when I started a fire and now I have new batteries. 880 amp/1080cc amps. optima batteries. All terminals replaced new. I feel like I have connected the engine compartment back to the way it was and am now not understanding why I do not get a light on my tester when I touch anything on the replaced interior harness fuse block. Please help... Also, just to be clear, I have the T.M. circuit diagrams. All of them... Any and all help is appreciated... I miss driving this thing

From the looks of the amount of rust and the wiring mess; You may want to take the radiator cap off and drive a new truck under it.

You do have a challenging task on your hands. By the way, what happened to your firewall? I don't think you should drive that even if you did get it to run. It's dangerous.

 

[Curtisje]

If your not getting power to the fuse block then my guess is you need to trace back your wiring, checking junctions and connections with a test light, and find out where you do have power.

Is the truck 12 volt or 24 volt?

 

[Sharecropper]

I mean no disrespect, however after reviewing your photos, that is just about the biggest mess I have ever seen under the hood of a CUCV. I wouldn't know where to suggest you start, maybe parting out the truck and starting over with another one in better shape. And your firewall. What the hail happened to your firewall? Jeez fellow, regretfully I think your truck may be worth more by parting out instead of repairing. I get the heebie-jeebies every time I look at those photos. I wish I could be more help, but I'm afraid I'll have to sit this one out. Sorry.

 

[1love]

Great Scott! I thought my rust was bad!

 

[cucvrus]

This song is all I can think of when I see the pictures. Good Luck

 

[Jbulach]

Hi Curtisje... I suppose I could ask the question first. How do I get the truck started after I plug in the new interior harness at the fuse box to engine harness? What connections are to complete the starting system? Trouble shooting of this is in question. Thanks...

Now that we are done thoroughly attacking your rust issue... with that I would bet you have some grounding issues. I know nothing about these split electrical systems whatsoever, or what this “ford style” relay is used for. I would start by running a separate ground to it from the appropriate battery. As well as to the stater, fame, and a couple of key locations on the body as well. Also connect your ground clip on your test light directly to the appropriate battery as well.

 

[nyoffroad]

I hate to say it but it looks like your throwing money away on that thing. Unless you can find a donor truck (civvie cab will work) then I'd start parting it out. Even with the correct harness from Hillbilly there's just so much else wrong that you'd need to start from scratch. If it was mine and I had NO OTHER CHOICE but to get it running I'd
#1 determine if the starter is 12 volt or 24, then trace back and repair/replace the cables and probably dump the Ford relay
#2 would be the glow plug system, it would most likely be some 'customizing'
#3 last would be any and all sensors, alternators and lights
I truly do think your over your head and I KNOW that truck is not safe to drive on the road and maybe not even the farm pasture!

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I hate to say it but it looks like your throwing money away on that thing. Unless you can find a donor truck (civvie cab will work) then I'd start parting it out. Even with the correct harness from Hillbilly there's just so much else wrong that you'd need to start from scratch. If it was mine and I had NO OTHER CHOICE but to get it running I'd

I was with ya right up to that "no other choice" part. There's always another choice. In this case, the only rational choice is to part it out and scrap the hulk.

There just isn't anything there to work with for any rational amount of effort and money. Every minute and every dime spent on this is throwing good after bad.


EDIT TO ADD: Don, nobody here can tell you what you have to do next. It's far too much of a mess to be able to guess. Really, if you are going to insist on trying to fix this thing, the best thing you can do is to rip out pretty much all the wring and start over re-creating it according to the wiring diagrams in the TMs.

 

[48cj2a]

I wont beat you up on the rust but I will say I've never seen one this bad on the firewall - If this is original to HI the salt air has not been good to it.

You do have quite a mess with the wiring and I'm not sure whats going on with the solenoid where the heater box should be...LOL guess you don't really need a heater in HI.

Do you have 12v at the two lug terminal on the firewall to the upper left of the glow plug relay?
Power to the fuse box comes from here on two terminals from the engine side harness.
See page E7 of the TM 9-2320-289-34 the terminal is called the ENG WRG Harness Block

In your pictures there is a short splice of lighter gauge wire from the feed wire to this terminal.