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Which Behr exterior paint product line am I looking for?

tobyS

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The problem is, both the red primer and Behr are hydroscopic and can let small amount of water go through and rust the underlying metal. It's not as bad, but after so much work, to see rust is a real bummer.

Now most repairs I make get red primer and then a coat of the rustoleum camouflage rattle can, as it seems to seal the underlying primer and takes the water base acrylic. Frame and black items get rustoleum flat black....but note that the black via FS has a blue component, so a small mix with dark blue can be had in enamel. I suggest getting a black sample from Behr in the proper FS number and mixing the enamels until you have a close match.
 
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SandBar

Full Time Patriot
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As far as spraying. I get the el cheapo 15$ airless paint sprayer from Harbor freight, thin the paint with water (Behr 4300 is a water based latex, so you can do that), and shoot it. Then just toss the paint sprayer..

Use grease/vasoline/oil to coat your windows/tail lights/headlights/etc or anything you don't wanna get paint on, and then use a razor after it dries to cut the edges and it'll peel right off...
Perfect, So the premium plus needs a primer?

Seems like HF comes to the rescue for a real good paint job for not a lot of money.

This is exactly the info I needed, the grease trick will work, I was wondering how I was going to get close enough to the windshield seal!
Thank you!
 

TechnoWeenie

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Nova Laboratories, WA
Perfect, So the premium plus needs a primer?

Seems like HF comes to the rescue for a real good paint job for not a lot of money.

This is exactly the info I needed, the grease trick will work, I was wondering how I was going to get close enough to the windshield seal!
Thank you!
No. CARC has pretty rough texture, for paint.

Wash the truck with DAWN, to get all the oil and grease off... use a scotchbrite or brillo pad (with no soap) to scuff things up... or sandpaper if you really feel like it (last time I used a sander with ~200 grit) and do a rough pass over the body, wash again, then paint.

It's VERY forgiving, and will adhere to just about anything.
 

TechnoWeenie

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Nova Laboratories, WA
Thank you all. I just got off the phone with a Behr paint rep. Trying to avoid oil based primarily because I'm lazy and don't like the mineral spirit cleanup hassles. I'll summarize the info I just received in the event someone is looking to do the same:

- Stated that while the Marquee is intended to be a primer and paint in one, since this is a vehicle application recommends using either Behr 436 multi surface primer or Behr 435 metal primer (preferred If the store you are using stocks 435). I'm not really sure why that matters, vehicle vs. exterior stationary, but he did say their paint has not been developed for vehicle applications.
I have NOT found a good primer that sticks to CARC. Most of the ones I have tried, have peeled. I've had better luck spraying directly onto the CARC after scuffing it, than trying to prime it, then coat it.

- Recommended 2 coats of the Behr Marquee as an automotive application for durability and color consistency over bare/previously painted surfaces on same work piece. That means likely 4-6 gallons I'm guessing, but when the final restoration is completed will let you know. Sounds like many have had good results with one application, so we will see how it goes.
I used around 6 gallons on an M934, for reference.. and there's a LOT to cover...

- Recommended an AIRLESS sprayer with a tip size of .015 - .021. Their R&D section has tested multiple spray tip sizes and found for this paint the indicated size to be the best for coverage and the nicest finish. I was looking at using an air sprayer, but they advised against it as in their tests the air sprayers made the finish look rough/blotchy and the paint did not level out properly. I suppose that all depends on the size of the tip for that as well.
Yup, el cheapo harbor freight one, as mentioned.


- Great thing about this paint is you can apply it in temperatures ranging from 40 to 90 degrees.

Make sure the humidity is low, and you really should be painting between 60-80, but who's counting? :p
 

MTVR

Well-known member
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Waco Texas
Details on box construction?
It's all in this thread, starting at about page 5:

 

MTVR

Well-known member
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747
93
Location
Waco Texas
Nice.
That BEHR 383 green looks like a close match to the original after it dried. Now for the camo paint scheme and a ladder to get in and your ready for business.
We already have a ladder. A $440 folding aluminum one with a custom-made drop-down mounting bracket and quick-release pins. It's detailed in our build thread:

 
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